Launch help needed. First time at at track in 27 years bad results

[Rockgt302]

Yesterday I went to Island dragway in NJ to race my car. The car is a 2015 PP manual with a stage 2 whipple running a 3.625 pulley. I am using whipples tune. I have it set up to pull about 10% power in first and 5% in 2nd. I did this to try and mitigate spin. I am running 331 gears in the PP torsen rear with Gforce half shafts. Ford racing springs. No other suspension mods.
Tires are nitto nt05 305/35-19s on sve 19x11 wheels.
My best ET was 12.3 at 127mph, 60ft was 2.3xx. 1st was useless, all spin and terrible hop, 2nd spun a fair amount but starting grabbing at the top of the gear.
After talking with some of the staff, they said for a stick driver I was nailing it but the hop was killing me.
Ordered steedas basic stop the hop kit (3 part set up).
What else should I be doing here?
I was trapping higher MPH then the two hellcats and the same MPH as a newer Z06, all on drag radials. Both cats were running around 11.2 and the z hit 10.9

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[NC85]

You need a full slick.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Slicks, 2 step and a clutch.

 

[ctandc72]

Get rid of the drag radials. You want a bias ply for a stick shift car. Your wheel hop will go away like magic.

 

[poncho@home]

Firstly, NT05 or NT05R? Secondly, ignore my firstly and get bias-ply slicks.

Another option if you are running NT05R drag radials, is the clutch delay valve. Check this out : http://magnusmotorsports.com/product/magnus-launch-control-device/

It will wear through your clutch faster, but might be a good solution if bias-ply slicks are not an option.

 

[poncho@home]

Firstly, NT05 or NT05R? Secondly, ignore my firstly and get bias-ply slicks.

Another option if you are running NT05R drag radials, is the clutch delay valve. Check this out : http://magnusmotorsports.com/product/magnus-launch-control-device/

It will wear through your clutch faster, but might be a good solution if bias-ply slicks are not an option.

 

[poncho@home]

Firstly, NT05 or NT05R? Secondly, ignore my firstly and get bias-ply slicks.

Another option if you are running NT05R drag radials, is the clutch delay valve. Check this out : http://magnusmotorsports.com/product/magnus-launch-control-device/

It will wear through your clutch faster, but might be a good solution if bias-ply slicks are not an option.

 

[Braski]

Put a set of slicks on or do a auto swap! Personally, I love the struggle of a manual so I'm sticking with my mt-82. Don't worry about et's, to me it's all about having fun! I'd rather loose shifting than win with a auto any day. With that said, If I was racing for $ I would be driving a auto because manuals are definitely slower.

 

[Rockgt302]

Put a set of slicks on or do a auto swap! Personally, I love the struggle of a manual so I'm sticking with my mt-82. Don't worry about et's, to me it's all about having fun! I'd rather loose shifting than win with a auto any day. With that said, If I was racing for $ I would be driving a auto because manuals are definitely slower.

This is how I feel about manuals as well. I'm not looking for the hero run. All the spinning isn't that fun. Going full slick makes me wonder if I'll break the tranny. I don't want an auto, shifting is too much fun. Anyone can drive an auto.

 

[ctandc72]

This is how I feel about manuals as well. I'm not looking for the hero run. All the spinning isn't that fun. Going full slick makes me wonder if I'll break the tranny. I don't want an auto, shifting is too much fun. Anyone can drive an auto.

Get a street legal bias ply. It’s designed to lessen the shock on your drivetrain.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

This is how I feel about manuals as well. I'm not looking for the hero run. All the spinning isn't that fun. Going full slick makes me wonder if I'll break the tranny. I don't want an auto, shifting is too much fun. Anyone can drive an auto.

It is satisfying when you can optimize a stick shift combo. But it is also difficult at times! Check out my NA stick shift fox body in my sig. Quicker and faster than most boosted auto setups LOL.

 

[Stymee]

Are u ne a NT05 or Nt05R

I thought NT05 was a street tire, you'll never hook on that
GET A NT05r or MT DR

 

[ctandc72]

Are u ne a NT05 or Nt05R

I thought NT05 was a street tire, you'll never hook on that
GET A NT05r or MT DR

He's trying to launch a stick shift car. You do NOT want to launch on a prepped surface (dragstrip) with a stick shift and a drag radial. If you want to launch a stick shift car at the track with any kind of power - you need a either a DOT legal bias ply tire (drive it to the track) or a full on slick (change tires at the track). Simple explanation? A manual transmission car has a direct MECHANICAL link from the engine to the transmission - and then to the drive line. Automatics have a fluid dampened connection (torque converter).

Hammering the throttle on an automatic equipped high HP car (From a stop) is one thing. Now picture the same car with a stick shift - and revving and dumping the clutch.

A bias ply tire has more sidewall than a low profile drag radial. It actually cushions the driveline shock when transferring power to the ground.

Tire will solve wheel hop as well. Seriously - get a set of DOT legal MT - like the Mickey Thompson ET Street R Bias:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/mickey-thompson-et-street-r-bias-tire.html

Pair that with a 17x9 or 17x10 wheel (I used a cheap Bullitt style knock off :

https://www.americanmuscle.com/solidblack-bullitt-17x9-0513.html

Or you can check out Racestars.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I've tried to make a dot bias work on both manual and auto, never stacks up to a true slick.

 

[Stymee]

He's trying to launch a stick shift car. You do NOT want to launch on a prepped surface (dragstrip) with a stick shift and a drag radial. If you want to launch a stick shift car at the track with any kind of power - you need a either a DOT legal bias ply tire (drive it to the track) or a full on slick (change tires at the track). Simple explanation? A manual transmission car has a direct MECHANICAL link from the engine to the transmission - and then to the drive line. Automatics have a fluid dampened connection (torque converter).

Hammering the throttle on an automatic equipped high HP car (From a stop) is one thing. Now picture the same car with a stick shift - and revving and dumping the clutch.

A bias ply tire has more sidewall than a low profile drag radial. It actually cushions the driveline shock when transferring power to the ground.

Tire will solve wheel hop as well. Seriously - get a set of DOT legal MT - like the Mickey Thompson ET Street R Bias:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/mickey-thompson-et-street-r-bias-tire.html

Pair that with a 17x9 or 17x10 wheel (I used a cheap Bullitt style knock off :

https://www.americanmuscle.com/solidblack-bullitt-17x9-0513.html

Or you can check out Racestars.

Man, coming from the GM world and running DR on LS based stuff with the LS6 and T-56 I don’t understand why u can’t run a a DR on a 6sp GT

Is it a light build, that weak?

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