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Koni setups, let's hear them. (Or other dampers)

Digital_Synapse

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So let's see if we can help each other out with some different combinations. I for one am not a big fan of the rear adjustability of the Koni's. I'm running short tires, and when I jack my car up from the rails there is just barely enough room for me to crab arm my big ass forearm in there to adjust things. The fewer times we have to do that the better. Let's see some set-up specifics and then your impressions.

I'm running:
Steeda Ultralite linear springs
Koni yellows - one turn off full soft front, half turn off full soft rear
Steeda Camber plates
Steeda adjustable toe links
Steeda billet subframe bushings
Wheels are 19x10/11 M350 wheels (295/325)/30/19 MPSS
Alignment specs when I get back home tonight:

Car is pretty well balanced and can steer with throttle well, but the rear still needs to be tweaked to my liking. Looking for a well leveled ride with no bounce but no jaw jarring with bumps from over dampened shocks. I figured the car would push with stiffer front struts but it doesn't.

Going to tweak it tonight. What are y'all running?
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Niz55

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Ordered the pro action ones and will leave a review once installed. Springs are sportlines.

Btw, what camber you running for the front?
 
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Digital_Synapse

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I used Ford Racing/Handling specification for circuit racing as a guideline of where to start. This is where I ended up.

Front camber: -1.55
Front total toe: 0.00
Rear camber: -1.98
Rear total toe: +0.23
 

NightmareMoon

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Factory PP suspension, except:

Koni yellows
Strano Rear Swaybar on softest setting
Front Camber: -2.4
Rear Camber: -1.9
Currently running factory PP staggered wheels with square 275/35R19 RE71R tires.
(Square 285/35R19 MPSS on order for 19x10 Project6gr wheels), and due to arrive in a week or two.

This Wednesday's Track Night in America at H2R is my first performance event with the car on the Konis, so I'll get to play with shock settings. Its a bumpy track, I'm guessing a softer rebound setting may be required?

I've been running the Strano rear bar on full soft, because on Medium with otherwise factory parts (PZeros) and the rear seemed to occasionally lurch sideways suddenly when settling into a corner under high Gs. We'll see if it still does that with the Konis on there.

I've tried front shock settings from 1/2 turn from full soft all the way to full stiff on the street, but without getting it onto a closed course its hard to say what the car likes best. This weekend's autox will be enlightening.
 

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16s550

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So should I just wait and buy camber plates before installing my konis? My springs are only 1 inch drop. Don't plan on going lower than that. Steeda linear sports...

For the konis im going to try 1.5 full turn from full stiff. I want to get steeda pro action but out of my budget.
 

Doctor Fishtail

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Ordered the pro action ones and will leave a review once installed. Springs are sportlines.

Btw, what camber you running for the front?
How is the Sportlines with braking nose dive? Or with hard acceleration? My Swift springs combined with the Konis is on the money. Would like to go a bit lower but do not want the nose dive while braking.
 

strengthrehab

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HOW are yall getting suck good camber. When I got my alignment the they claimed the max camber was 1.2
 

NightmareMoon

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You can mod the strut to get more camber. Notch the top strut bolt hole (the top of the two big bolts that hold the wheel hub to the strut up to 2mm, allowing the hub to rotate back.

Camber plates are a better answer, but the above procedure is the only one allowed in my autocross class, and it's free if you have a dremmel.
 

Todd15Fastback

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Here is my setup.

I'm running the following:

*Steeda Ultralite linear springs
*Koni yellows - 1.25 turns for both front and rear which is the middle adjustment of 2.5 turns.
*Steeda Camber plates
*Steeda red differential bushings
*Steeda front and rear sway bars set 1 notch below firmest setting (3 hole up front and 2 hole out back)
*Steeda billet sway bar mounts
*Steeda subframe braces
*Steeda spherical bearings
*Steeda G-trac brace
*Steeda jacking rails
*Steeda IRS cradle alignment bushings
*Steeda bumpsteer kit - I have .10" of movement for every 1" of front suspension travel as this was adjusted during my alignment
*Steeda IRS bushing subframe support system
*Steeda Strut Tower Brace (STB)
*Steeda billet vertical links
*Wheels are 20x10/11 WORK CR2P (2 piece forged wheels) running 285/35/20 and 305/35/20 Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar G:2 tires (very, very sticky)
*Alignment specs - In the picture below. These were set with me in the driver seat, too.



I have not run my car on a track event yet but plan on doing so next year once I get my new APEX 18" wheel and tire setup.

Driving on backroads, the car feels very, very planted. Even hitting rough spots in the road, the rear end still tracks perfectly and stays on course. I am getting just a bit of bounce sometimes and think I am going to add a half turn of adjustment to the firm side at all 4 corners in the next day or so and see how that feels.
 

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Hinds90

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Any deals out there for the konis? I think AM had a discount but they're out of stock for the next 4 to 5 weeks.

Edit: Well nevermind they are in stock on AM. Could have sworn I saw out of stock yesterday.
 
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ero 5.0

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I just got mine this week from LMR for $676 to my door. Not sure if theres a better deal out there, but that seemed like a deal to me so I pulled the trigger.
 

ForTehNguyen

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how is your front camber so high with front PP springs. I got BMR min drop fronts and my front camber is -1.6ish which is barely out of spec
 

NightmareMoon

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If you slot the front struts (slot the top spindle bolt hole) you can get more camber, or just install camber plates.
 

Bluemustang

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I am running the Konis as well.

Here is my setup:
BMR performance springs (front and rear)
BMR sway bars
BMR vertical links TCA046
BMR adjustable toe rods
BMR CB005
Ford racing strut tower brace

I don't know my alignment specs but it handles and drives very well. The Konis are set on the middle setting, as are the sway bars. The car feels planted and body roll feels nonexistent on the street. Cornering at high speeds is not a problem and the body float is gone. I don't really feel the car losing the rear anymore so I would say the balance is good.

The ride is much stiffer than stock. On nicely paved roads or driving at high speeds the car feels smoother than stock. It handles regular bumps better as it eleminates any jiggle or bounce in the suspension. Bigger bumps like in downtown DC is more jarring, although still less bounce side to side. At say low speeds on regular roads, it is a little bumpier than stock, but it's just because it's firmer. This car would rather go fast than slow and the stock car was no different.

I may try different dampening settings later but for now I think I'm good.
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