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Knock Knock. Who’s there? Rod.

K4fxd

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yi you have at least 4 cam caps in the incorrect position.
Makes me wonder if the rod and or main caps are also in the wrong positions.
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LSchicago

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I guess it’s possible this new engine was just burning crazy amounts of oil. Doesn’t explain the oil on the steering rack. Still feel like 4 quarts in 5k street miles is insane.
It's not. I've seen brand new engines use a qt. every 500 miles.
 

80FoxCoupe

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Makes me wonder if the rod and or main caps are also in the wrong positions.
From what I read, he got the shortblock already assembled. OP or his mechanic likely did the top end.
 
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tdstuart

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8100rpm sound very high to revving this engine. No wonder it's making noises it's not supposed to.
Typical for a modified car. Lots of people revving even higher. Car has upgraded cams, upgraded springs and retainers, upgraded timing chains, and upgraded tensioners.

I would be revving higher but the car doesn’t make more power.
 

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tdstuart

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Fyi you have at least 4 cam caps in the incorrect position. Pass side, exhaust from front to back 1-5, intake front to back 6-10. Large cap is obviously 1 and 6 simultaneously. All of the cam caps are machined in the original locations and should not be swapped around. This could be your oiling issue.

EDIT - I circled the 9 position but meant to circle the 7 position. Number 7 is obscured in all the photos.

4DD8AF0F-5094-4FB6-BC60-92E11DFE2747.jpeg
Hard to tell from that photo but I think you are right. No idea how I got it wrong because I took reference photos when I took the original cams off… well that sucks. I wonder if I just accidentally swapped those around or if I did the other side wrong too.

Edit: checked my photos from when the motor was built and looks like I did that side wrong but did the other side correct. Wonder if I should swap the caps…
 

80FoxCoupe

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Hard to tell from that photo but I think you are right. No idea how I got it wrong because I took reference photos when I took the original cams off… well that sucks. I wonder if I just accidentally swapped those around or if I did the other side wrong too.

Edit: checked my photos from when the motor was built and looks like I did that side wrong but did the other side correct. Wonder if I should swap the caps…
Need to see if any damage was done. Not sure what can be done if the head surface is damaged.
 
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tdstuart

tdstuart

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Need to see if any damage was done. Not sure what can be done if the head surface is damaged.
Assuming no damage has been done, how should I swap the cam caps?

Since it's the 2 rears I am a little concerned about just taking off both rears and swapping them. I know ford says to take off the front cam caps before taking off any of the others to avoid damage. Not sure how much of a concern it is.
 
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Cranked the car with no valve cover and didn’t see anything obvious.

Only the 4 and 5 # cam caps are wrong atleast. Don’t know why I switch those 2 and didn’t catch it…
 

K4fxd

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Cranked the car with no valve cover and didn’t see anything obvious.
If the phaser is working the only thing left to do is a tear down inspection.
 

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Other than the caps being lapped/matched to the cam sections, what is the risk/effect of having them swapped?

If they've worn in to that new section, would swapping correcting them even work? I don't recall there being a difference in them (aside from the joined end). Is there some sort of oiling channel that is specific/different on each cap?

By the way, I was a dumbass and broke a cap. So be careful and do it by the book. They're brittle AF. Once you break one, you can't just buy a new one because they're lap matched. Basically every shop/builder I spoke with indicated it would involve buying a new head. Luckily I found one shop who had some older ones laying around and the tools to do it.
 
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tdstuart

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Put in the new vct solenoid and the codes went away as well as misfire on startup codes and random misfire.

Still knocking. I’ll post videos in a second. It’s really quiet when the car first starts but after a minute or so becomes pretty loud. When I first fired the car up I thought I fixed the issue but the noise slowly came back.

Anyone have suggestions before removing the engine? I am thinking compression test, borescope valves, and check oil for metal
 

Angrey

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Put in the new vct solenoid and the codes went away as well as misfire on startup codes and random misfire.

Still knocking. I’ll post videos in a second. It’s really quiet when the car first starts but after a minute or so becomes pretty loud. When I first fired the car up I thought I fixed the issue but the noise slowly came back.

Anyone have suggestions before removing the engine? I am thinking compression test, borescope valves, and check oil for metal
Is there no way for you to log and see what the commanded vs actual cam advances are? Sounds like it's a timing and/or VCT issue because at start up it follows one set of tables and then gradually transitions once you're within error tolerance of desired idle rpm.
 
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tdstuart

tdstuart

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More vids of the knock:
Vid 3:

Vid 4:


At the end of Vid 4 you can hear it really bad.
 
 




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