Kilmat sound deadening project

[Cobra Jet]

I've done sound deadening before - and IMO, every time I see a thread where folks spend an exhorbitant amount of $$$$ on "name brand" auto sound deadener with "this and that claim"... it makes me cringe.

So years ago, I used to sound deaden my Fox Mustangs, which were tuna cans to begin with from their primitive construction and lack of any materials between the shell and passenger compartment.

Laugh as you will - BUT, I went to Home Depot (or Lowes) and purchased 6"x25ft rolls of roofing "Peel-N-Seal". It is the same damn thing as the fancy-schmancy name brand autosound deadeners sold by the squares. Yes, it is aluminum backed with self adhering sticky black tar on the other side, is totally flexible, AND can be stuck/placed/pressed onto anywhere in a car.... and NO it has absolutely NO odors, it does not ooze out when hot, nor does it fall off, and it deadens sound just as the best automotive sound deadener material out there - and that's factual, no BS.

I could get a Fox Mustang to sound like a BMW when closing the doors, tapping on the roof, trunk, doors, or any sheet metal that encompassed the passenger compartment, etc.... and yes, it eliminated road noise, any prior NVH, kept the heat out from exhaust mods such as LT headers, and it was a much quieter cabin for overall sound, whether it was people talking or listening to the stereo.

Here's the product at Lowes, it's called "Peel and Seal" and comes in a 6"x25ft roll for $16:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-...s-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733

The trick to any application of a product like that is to apply it when temps are 70*+ so it's pliable, use a mini-roller to flatten it into the floor pan valleys and crevices and overlap each prior application by at least 1/4". For floor pan, run it from firewall to base of rear seats. After laying down a strip, use the roller and press firmly to fill all valleys/crevices of the surface.

Again, laugh as you will, but the product does work 100% to deaden sounds and create a quieter passenger compartment. I laughed all the way to the bank as others go broke buying the "name brand" shit square by square, while I saved $$$ to put towards other mods...

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[Hack]

I've done sound deadening before - and IMO, every time I see a thread where folks spend an exhorbitant amount of $$$$ on "name brand" auto sound deadener with "this and that claim"... it makes me cringe.

So years ago, I used to sound deaden my Fox Mustangs, which were tuna cans to begin with from their primitive construction and lack of any materials between the shell and passenger compartment.

Laugh as you will - BUT, I went to Home Depot (or Lowes) and purchased 6"x25ft rolls of roofing "Peel-N-Seal". It is the same damn thing as the fancy-schmancy name brand autosound deadeners sold by the squares. Yes, it is aluminum backed with self adhering sticky black tar on the other side, is totally flexible, AND can be stuck/placed/pressed onto anywhere in a car.... and NO it has absolutely NO odors, it does not ooze out when hot, nor does it fall off, and it deadens sound just as the best automotive sound deadener material out there - and that's factual, no BS.

I could get a Fox Mustang to sound like a BMW when closing the doors, tapping on the roof, trunk, doors, or any sheet metal that encompassed the passenger compartment, etc.... and yes, it eliminated road noise, any prior NVH, kept the heat out from exhaust mods such as LT headers, and it was a much quieter cabin for overall sound, whether it was people talking or listening to the stereo.

Here's the product at Lowes, it's called "Peel and Seal" and comes in a 6"x25ft roll for $16:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-...s-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733

The trick to any application of a product like that is to apply it when temps are 70*+ so it's pliable, use a mini-roller to flatten it into the floor pan valleys and crevices and overlap each prior application by at least 1/4". For floor pan, run it from firewall to base of rear seats. After laying down a strip, use the roller and press firmly to fill all valleys/crevices of the surface.

Again, laugh as you will, but the product does work 100% to deaden sounds and create a quieter passenger compartment. I laughed all the way to the bank as others go broke buying the "name brand" shit square by square, while I saved $$$ to put towards other mods...

I would use that product no hesitation at all. I haven't found it around here though. But then again I always use an off brand that is inexpensive.

 

[geep81]

Did you punch holes through the Kilmat and then put the wires back under the rear window? Or were you just going around everything? Did you go full coverage?

I actually didn't get to the rear deck yet, I only did the side. I didn't think of doing the rear deck at the time because I was really really trying to get rid of a rattle.

I did do cut outs/arounds on some of the parts I did on the rear side wall and around the window, and in the trunk. I did the rear fenders both as well and had to do some cutting out for various parts I didn't want to interfere with.

I would definitely punch holes when I get to the rear deck and rest of the car if needed.

 

[geep81]

Laugh as you will - BUT, I went to Home Depot (or Lowes) and purchased 6"x25ft rolls of roofing "Peel-N-Seal".

Interesting. But also the killamat I'm using isn't too bad compared to the fancy ones either, I checked and it's $60 for 36sq ft. I also do like how its backing is like little squares on a chocolate bar, it makes it easy to bend/mark for quick cut outs and such.

I bought one box and so far it's done my entire trunk area, one side of my rear, and my fiancé's SUV rear. I think it's a pretty good value. I still have like 1/3rd left which I think will finish off my car.

 

[skinnysaurus]

Started the doors….absolutely not fun and time consuming working around the wires and gaps. I recommend wearing long sleeves and gloves working on the inside of the panel…got several small cuts on my arm and hands rolling the mats down. Road test following completion of the passenger door. Very glad this project is coming to a close!

 

[NGOT8R]

Did you apply any inside the door (outer door skin)?

 

[Albertcado]

yo does anyone else have the middle of the dash/ac vent buzz or rattle?

 

[Evolvd]

Started the doors….absolutely not fun and time consuming working around the wires and gaps. I recommend wearing long sleeves and gloves working on the inside of the panel…got several small cuts on my arm and hands rolling the mats down. Road test following completion of the passenger door. Very glad this project is coming to a close!

Did you apply the mat to the vapor barrier plastic? Interesting choice.

 

[skinnysaurus]

Did you apply any inside the door (outer door skin)?

Yes I did….that is where you will skin your fingers and arms while trying to roll around Al the nooks….and where I recommend gloves.

 

[skinnysaurus]

Did you apply the mat to the vapor barrier plastic? Interesting choice.

Yes I did. I was on the fence whether it was even necessary in that area but I figured it wouldn’t hurt to try it. Obviously the only downside is the vapor barrier is done if you ever have to remove the mat in the future. I also had to remove some of the factory white cotton looking pads to close the door panel but I doubt it was doing much anyway.

 

[skinnysaurus]

Project is completed and my final unscientific verdict is this was a well worth mod for about $120 and a lot of sweat equity. I ended up using about 2 boxes of Kilmat (100mil and 80 mil) and went about 80% coverage in the trunk, rear wheel wells, trunk lid, under the rear seats, rear side panels, the rear speaker shelf and both front doors.

Most of the unwanted road noises, small rattles and “metal” noises I would occasionally hear over bumps are GONE! Overall there was a small to moderate decrease of noise level in the cabin, not a drastic change BUT the stock radio now comes in really crisp and clear and there is no competition with road noise where I would previously always have to put my radio volume fairly high to drown out unwanted sounds. Engine, transmission and exhaust noise seems unchanged. I dont daily mine but I would have very little complaint doing so now (especially up here in NE traffic and roads). It in no way transforms the cabin into Lexus or Mercedes quiet but it is very close if not equal to a BMW interior where everything feels solid inside but there are engine/exhaust noises (by design). In the end, it went a long way in shoring up Ford’s neglect in providing almost no sound deadening/insulation in the cabin.

 

[Blufc3s]

Did mine a couple of years ago, definitely made a difference

 

[Excelerater]

i guess the mustang was not heavy enough

 

[Blufc3s]

i guess the mustang was not heavy enough

I way 140, added approximately 40 lbs, don’t race it, so for me, inconsequential.

 

[thunderstrike]

Sound deadening is overrated. Makes you feel good, but not much real deadening. I took out entire interior of my Jeep Wrangler to do sound deadening and I will not do that again, for Mustang to get rid of rattles.

BTW, why do I want to deaden GT's awesome exhaust sound?

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