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K&N air filter and cabin air filter replacement after smoky air from Northern California

MikeZ9

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Hello all,

Here is an interesting debate I see online about replacing the engine air filter and cabin air filter. I live in Northern California, and recently, the wildfire smoke has been really bad here. My own HVAC filter is black from filtering out the outside smoke. Now for the car engine air filter and cabin air filter, Some people (including my mechanic) says it's a waste of money to replace the engine air filter. Some others (news people) says both engine and cabin air filters should be replaced or thoroughly cleaned after the smoke is gone.

I have a KN engine air filter (its about 8000 mile old) on and do not want to use their kit to clean it (heard too many stories on how if cleaned improperly, it could damage your car's airflow sensors), and my cabin filter has been put on about 3000-5000 miles ago. Should I change both of them or don't worry about it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks!
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Bikeman315

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Hello all,

Here is an interesting debate I see online about replacing the engine air filter and cabin air filter. I live in Northern California, and recently, the wildfire smoke has been really bad here. My own HVAC filter is black from filtering out the outside smoke. Now for the car engine air filter and cabin air filter, Some people (including my mechanic) says it's a waste of money to replace the engine air filter. Some others (news people) says both engine and cabin air filters should be replaced or thoroughly cleaned after the smoke is gone.

I have a KN engine air filter (its about 8000 mile old) on and do not want to use their kit to clean it (heard too many stories on how if cleaned improperly, it could damage your car's airflow sensors), and my cabin filter has been put on about 3000-5000 miles ago. Should I change both of them or don't worry about it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks!
Under your circumstances I would put your car into the extreme conditions category. The in cabin filter is cheap and easy to replace. Do it.

The issue with an oiled filter is not in the cleaning but in the over-oiling. Read up on it and look at some YouTube videos. Easy Peasy. And yes, do it now.
 

NeedForGreen

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You wont over oil the filter if you just do it right. As Bikeman mentioned, there's a lot of videos on youtube. It's really not hard a at all. If some oil were to get on the maf, usually its just a matter of carefully using a swab and some alcohol to wipe it off.
I use an oiled green filter myself. I do know some people who do just buy new filters as opposed to re-oiling.
 

kluke15

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just dont go crazy with the oil on the filter and youll be fine. if you can see drops formed on the filter when you are done you put too much oil on and you can dab with a paper towel to absorb the extra. but def clean both filters. the smoke this year was especially bad.
 

Rapid Red

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The K&N can be run dry, have one that came with a Roush CAI.

If I were the OP I'd call K&N to verify. Check and see if there are 2 part numbers. One dry and one oiled, good chance there is not.

Cleaning the the element, simple green works fine, spray cone, Outside only let it work for a bit.

Rinse, do not use a spray nozzle and blast. That will damage the gauze filter media.

Run water from the back side out. Until the foam or soapy bubbles are gone. Let it sit, and dry, do not use compressor air & blow gun.
 

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NeedForGreen

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They can be run dry, but they never should be unless they are specifically sold as dry filters. Oiled filters have larger holes and thinner layers of material to allow more air through. Without the oil, those larger holes let in more crap through which isn't good for the engine.
The dry filters that are sold have more layers of material, but less air flow vs an oiled.
 

Elp_jc

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Racing cotton gauze filters let in a lot of crap, even oiled. That's why they're 'racing' filters :). And the worst thing is the engine does not even need the extra airflow, so you'd be damaging your engine with the extra dirt for nothing (no free lunch here). But to each his own :).
 

Rapid Red

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They can be run dry, but they never should be unless they are specifically sold as dry filters. Oiled filters have larger holes and thinner layers of material to allow more air through. Without the oil, those larger holes let in more crap through which isn't good for the engine.
The dry filters that are sold have more layers of material, but less air flow vs an oiled.

I wonder about that, the reason for the OP to check K&N prt#s.

The one in the Roush kit was the first time I ran Into the dry filter.

Every other car I own 4 have oiled elements. Think I'll curse over to K&N check out the layer & flow differences you mention, thanks for the heads up.
 

Bikeman315

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The K&N website offers one oem replacement filter for our cars. I guess if you want dry go with AEM or AFE.

92414AFE-EC35-487F-BC15-3544DA5AEBC2.jpeg
 

Rapid Red

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They can be run dry, but they never should be unless they are specifically sold as dry filters. Oiled filters have larger holes and thinner layers of material to allow more air through. Without the oil, those larger holes let in more crap through which isn't good for the engine.
The dry filters that are sold have more layers of material, but less air flow vs an oiled.

Verified you're correct, the oiled is listed as High flow and is red, dry is black.

Assumed the Roush CAI had the K&N product. But also noticed it was not pre oiled. That should have been the clue, looks like I'll be ordering a filter LOL
 

69mach1-395

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Have an oiled K&N in my PSD F250 and last time it required a deep cleaning as the filter minder kept saying 50% clogged. I used dawn in a small tub a few times to get it as new before oiling again. It's been great since.
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