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Just ordered Antigravity Lithium Battery

galaxy

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Fairly anti-climatic install. But sometimes that’s not such a bad thing. This mount fits like a glove. Don’t really know what to add to the story. Highly recommend this route if like me, you want to keep the stock box. If I was forced to critique something, it could be a tad bit taller so the positive cable fit down in the box cutout a bit better, but…meh

Yes…that’s my daughter. She’s becoming quite the little gear head.

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PKs

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Fairly anti-climatic install. But sometimes that’s not such a bad thing. This mount fits like a glove. Don’t really know what to add to the story. Highly recommend this route if like me, you want to keep the stock box. If I was forced to critique something, it could be a tad bit taller so the positive cable fit down in the box cutout a bit better, but…meh

Yes…that’s my daughter. She’s becoming quite the little gear head.

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683F2293-246F-48E3-95C2-CDD849AEB07A.jpeg


4E33B176-39E6-4863-92D4-5BC9C1C8591A.jpeg


FEC215C6-CFF4-473C-AF0E-1CE07DDC5452.jpeg


BA14D68B-0608-4B67-98EA-4F173BC9CFDF.jpeg


E66AB253-F322-4722-B626-139D20767628.jpeg
Can you use a spacer underneath to raise the height.
 

galaxy

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Dude, my car has never cranked this fast! Not even when new!

Did not notice anything abnormal (voltage) when driving like some have reported from the initial instal. But then again, my voltage gauge is guaranteed the least used gauge in the car anyways.
 

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MAV

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Installed my ATX-20HD this afternoon, did the BMS reset in Forscan, and currently waiting for the 8 hour relearn. Can’t drive the car anyway since it’s been raining for a month it seems.
 
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Dude, my car has never cranked this fast! Not even when new!

Did not notice anything abnormal (voltage) when driving like some have reported from the initial instal. But then again, my voltage gauge is guaranteed the least used gauge in the car anyways.
Yes, completely normal. Part of the issue is the voltage displayed on the dash is inferred and not a true terminal voltage. On top of that the fact the battery charges faster will mean the smart charging system may look to fluctuate more often. If however you saw the voltage swing back and forth high to low nonstop every second like a pendulum on a clock that would indicate the internal protection for the battery has kicked in and the car is just running directly off the alternator. This was an issue on the GT350 with the ReStart batteries but I never saw it occur on a non-ReStart battery.
 

Weather756

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Dude, my car has never cranked this fast! Not even when new!

Did not notice anything abnormal (voltage) when driving like some have reported from the initial instal. But then again, my voltage gauge is guaranteed the least used gauge in the car anyways.
Dude, my car has never cranked this fast! Not even when new!

Did not notice anything abnormal (voltage) when driving like some have reported from the initial instal. But then again, my voltage gauge is guaranteed the least used gauge in the car anyways.
Just wondering if battery is performing as expected. No problems? Thinking of going that route. Thanks
 

Cory S

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It performs like a 12v battery! Nothing to report on. The cranking power is stuipd amazing, but other than that....
Same here. My ATX-30HD is awesome.
 

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Angrey

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Mine hasn't had any issues, but in fairness, I haven't been treating it like a non-lithium either. I keep it on the tender whenever it's parked in my garage and I haven't taken the car out on any trips that require long sits with multiple starts in between.

I can report to you that the BMS does NOT like the Lithium. At start and to the point that I stop checking, the voltage remains low (on the dash gauge) so I don't know if it would truly "deep cycle" the battery if operated long enough.

I've taken the car on some longer trips (1.5 hours each way) with no issues. But I haven't taken it out for 2 days with stops at the mall and intermittent periods of the accessories running in between starts.

In short, for most of my purposes, it works just fine.

Thankfully, my fuel pumps are brushless and the controller(s) operate off a delivery system that is based off flow, so the lower voltage doesn't adversely affect my fuel system. It just asks for more flow and depending on whatever voltage it's seeing, it regulates through pulse width.

I'd be cautious of verifying the LiON is compatible with traditional brush style systems under all conditions. Typical high power systems that use TI or DW pumps might see significant swings in pump output if the voltage drops from say 13.5 volts to 12.7 volts. (across 3 pumps). So I'd ensure when you dyno or street tune it you double check to ensure you have capacity in reserve so as not to run lean up top (meaning the system might supply enough fuel when the voltage is 13.5V but might run short if it's on the ragged edge and the BMS is purposefully dropping the voltage to 12.7V)
 

Egparson202

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Mine hasn't had any issues, but in fairness, I haven't been treating it like a non-lithium either. I keep it on the tender whenever it's parked in my garage and I haven't taken the car out on any trips that require long sits with multiple starts in between.

I can report to you that the BMS does NOT like the Lithium. At start and to the point that I stop checking, the voltage remains low (on the dash gauge) so I don't know if it would truly "deep cycle" the battery if operated long enough.

I've taken the car on some longer trips (1.5 hours each way) with no issues. But I haven't taken it out for 2 days with stops at the mall and intermittent periods of the accessories running in between starts.

In short, for most of my purposes, it works just fine.

Thankfully, my fuel pumps are brushless and the controller(s) operate off a delivery system that is based off flow, so the lower voltage doesn't adversely affect my fuel system. It just asks for more flow and depending on whatever voltage it's seeing, it regulates through pulse width.

I'd be cautious of verifying the LiON is compatible with traditional brush style systems under all conditions. Typical high power systems that use TI or DW pumps might see significant swings in pump output if the voltage drops from say 13.5 volts to 12.7 volts. (across 3 pumps). So I'd ensure when you dyno or street tune it you double check to ensure you have capacity in reserve so as not to run lean up top (meaning the system might supply enough fuel when the voltage is 13.5V but might run short if it's on the ragged edge and the BMS is purposefully dropping the voltage to 12.7V)
I could very well be wrong, but I think the voltage gauge is displaying the voltage being supplied to the battery. So if it shows a low value, the battery is getting minimal charging front the alternator. When it shows a higher value, the alternator is charging more. That seems to fit what you’re seeing for a battery that’s maintained carefully on a battery tender.

Again, I could be mistaken.
 

galaxy

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My voltage looks no different in any driving condition with this battery than it ever did the stock battery. I also just got back from a 2K mile road trip over thanksgiving. Over night in freezing temps, then parked several days at my folks house with no charger...it never acted any different from a normal car...other than the insane starting power, which was unwaivered after being parked unplugged for four days.

From all the reading and research I've done before buying, I think it's a better statement to say the BMS does not like the restart capability on some of the batteries, and maybe not necessarily only because it's lithium.
 

Cory S

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Mine hasn't had any issues, but in fairness, I haven't been treating it like a non-lithium either. I keep it on the tender whenever it's parked in my garage and I haven't taken the car out on any trips that require long sits with multiple starts in between.

I can report to you that the BMS does NOT like the Lithium. At start and to the point that I stop checking, the voltage remains low (on the dash gauge) so I don't know if it would truly "deep cycle" the battery if operated long enough.

I've taken the car on some longer trips (1.5 hours each way) with no issues. But I haven't taken it out for 2 days with stops at the mall and intermittent periods of the accessories running in between starts.

In short, for most of my purposes, it works just fine.

Thankfully, my fuel pumps are brushless and the controller(s) operate off a delivery system that is based off flow, so the lower voltage doesn't adversely affect my fuel system. It just asks for more flow and depending on whatever voltage it's seeing, it regulates through pulse width.

I'd be cautious of verifying the LiON is compatible with traditional brush style systems under all conditions. Typical high power systems that use TI or DW pumps might see significant swings in pump output if the voltage drops from say 13.5 volts to 12.7 volts. (across 3 pumps). So I'd ensure when you dyno or street tune it you double check to ensure you have capacity in reserve so as not to run lean up top (meaning the system might supply enough fuel when the voltage is 13.5V but might run short if it's on the ragged edge and the BMS is purposefully dropping the voltage to 12.7V)
BMS should never allow voltage that low really. Mine hasn’t ever dropped below 13.8V on the dash. Usually 14.2-14.6 at all times. I’ve driven many long trips and short trips, and it always keeps the battery topped off perfectly.
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