Just had an alignment done at a race shop

[Bluemustang]

Would putting the front at -2 balance the car better? Will that cause more tire wear. I just got a text from the shop asking if I am happy with the service and if I want to make any changes.

Like I said, great reputation.

On the other hand will I be better off with less camber in the rear. Now that I know where the adjustment bolts are I can show them.

Yes. Less understeer.

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[K4fxd]

I went back to the same parking lot and pulled the plug by the air cleaner. Did the same 40 Mph and cranked the wheel, the car spun like a top, no vibration. So it was the advance track and it works like it's supposed to.

 

[K4fxd]

Get tires and CB005 cradle lockout,

I know you don't like the Steeda braces and I would try the BMR things, but I don't want to lose the stiffness I get from the Steeda unit. Like I said many times, I am totally surprised by the amount of chassis stiffening these do. I'm surprised Steeda doesn't advertise this. Maybe it's a deliver more than you promise deal.

I think the next mod will be the A arm bearing in the rear. I think that is the next weak link.

Car is in the body shop this week due to some dip sh*t who sideswiped me in a parking lot.

Rental car company gave me a charger R/T, I miss my Mustang already

 

[K4fxd]

Will -2 front camber eat tires?

 

[AlbertD]

Toe eats tires more than camber will... I run -3 camber with zero toe and haven't noticed uneven tire wear. If you take corners a bit more aggressively than the average driver, than -2 camber up front shouldn't be a concern.

 

[DonnieO]

They don't know what they're doing then. The subframe point slotted. You have to remove at least some of the load on the suspension to adjust. For a street car that camber is fine.

I agree. Might have to jack the rear up to loosen the load. It'll move enough to give you -2.5 in the rear. Mine was -2.3 after lowering my car. I had to jack my car up off the ground and it moved no problem.

 

[Dana Pants]

At -2.3 front and -1.9 rear I have to flip my summer tires due to outside tire wear and flip my winter tires due to inside tire wear. You can’t win. Buy directional tires, not asymmetrical tires.

 

[Jmesl8er]

Numbers are -1.6 camber front, .04 toe each side, total toe .08 Caster 7 both sides

Rear camber -1.6 left side and - 1.4 right side, shop said the slots were not slotted on my car.
toe .11 both sides total .23 thurst angle .00

Unfortunately, I never pushed the car before this alignment.

The shop said I might want more neg camber in the front to stop it from pushing on the track. Wants me to monitor tire wear.

Today I found an empty parking lot and pushed the car into a 4 wheel drift, it does lose the front before the rear, but it also had a bad vibration, like warped rotors under hard braking.

Just to clarify, the vibration is under power while sliding all tires, not under braking.

Is this normal for the S550?

If not what could be causing this.

I have FP and BMR bracing in the front and Steeda bracing in the rear.

What shop?

 

[TeeLew]

Not sure, it was a high frequency (fast) vibration that I never felt in a sliding car before. Almost like the ABS activating.

That's what it feels like when you slide the front end of a car that doesn't have enough front negative camber. The outside shoulder of the tire folds under & it gets into a rapid grip/stick cycle. It feels like a scrubbing vibration in the wheel.

 

[K4fxd]

Actually nope... it was the advance track operating like it was designed to.

It works rather well since I could not spin the car out. I turned it off and I spun like a top.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Actually nope... it was the advance track operating like it was designed to.

It works rather well since I could not spin the car out. I turned it off and I spun like a top.

In that case, the ABS was in fact operating. AdvanceTrac is piggybacked on top of the ABS because it needs to use ABS's ability to brake or release individual wheels. It probably uses the ABS wheel sensors as input as well.


Norm

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