0.75mm per side / 1.50mm total gap between the reducer bushesI have some parts from another manufacturer at home that use spericals and reducer bushes - I'm going to do a quick check on the clearance between the reducer bushes and report back
WD
No mine were good.
I gave up on the diff bushings. Short of dropping the entire cradle, there was no way I was getting the front ones in.
I feel your pain. If you look back in this thread, they even offered to replace them for everyone with the issue and I sent them my receipt and got nothing but crickets in return. I only have an issue on the driver side but I will eventually swap out the BK055's for the Steeda. However, I never heard of Cortex before and some quick reading says they will sell them already installed in another set of GT rear arms and just charge you a core charge to return your stock arms. Would make the swap super easy but my only issue with that is I installed the PP1 bearings in the other locations on the arm too. But those are much easier to remove/replace compared to the RLCA bearing.
There are only two bearing/bushings on the lca. The other factory one is a bearing with a boot over each side, at least on my PP car. Maybe you are thinking of the Ford performance toe bearing, but that's on the knuckle side. Anyhow, I already removed the bearings. Monday I will order something else. Half tempted to reinstall the rubber ones. Lol. But it is planted feeling with no squirm under power. (I drove two hours yesterday on E85 and at 13-14lbs, it picks up speed from an 80 roll super quick and smooth.)
It does not make complete sense, because that is not accurate at all.
Exactly. The outer race and body of the bearing will pivot around the ball that is captured between mounting points on the rear subframe. It should be a smooth bind free situation. I just picked up the steeda ones from cj pony parts because I was in the area. I will have it back together tomorrow and see how they work out.
This bearing is very stiff new. I actually took a nut, bolt and washer and clamped the spacers into the ball. I took two v blocks and locked the outer race in my 20 ton press. I then worked the ball until I got the torque down to 40 lb ft to move it.I wish I would have searched about this earlier. I recently installed 3:31 gears in my diff, so while I had everything apart I installed the bk055 bearing. I'm currently sitting here with the rear suspension apart for a 3rd time. I installed them and like other got the clicking/squeaking noises. So I loosed the bolt, but all that does is allow the ball to rotate around the spacers, which obviously over time is bad. So I removed them, sanded down the spacers and put the control arm in a vise and manually worked the bearing around. It is extremely tight, but I figured maybe it would loosen up after some miles. Nope. With it torqued down to the proper bolt torque the bearing is basically locked up. I cannot get full range of motion out of it. If I jack the car up the rear end will drop. But when the car is sitting on it's own and you jump up and down on the trunk, there is no suspenion movement. So when driving you are basically riding on the tires. Crazy. The tolerances must be so tight that when torque down the ball expands every so slightly and binds. I called BMR and the guy acted like it was the first time they were hearing about this.
I worked both of them free with a long 1/2 extension in every axis. I had them pretty free I thought. I sanded down the spacers to make sure they weren't touching and re-installed. But they locked up. When I got everything apart with just the LCA attached by only the two bolts, the one side I could barely move and if you watch the video, the other side was locked. Why can't someone make one like the factory has in the other side? The factory one has zero play and I can turn and move them with my fingers.
The smaller bearing and the Steeda is like that. You can move them by hand. I believe FK makes these bearings. They have a tolerance level where there is a range of stiffness within that bearing group. I have both the large and small BMR and decided to use the big one (the bigger is better approach).
Eagerly awaiting your feedback on the Steeda bearings especially from the NVH department. Thanks!Exactly. The outer race and body of the bearing will pivot around the ball that is captured between mounting points on the rear subframe. It should be a smooth bind free situation. I just picked up the steeda ones from cj pony parts because I was in the area. I will have it back together tomorrow and see how they work out.