Is there any reason NOT to run the Girodisc rotors on the front?

[JAJ]

My OEM drilled rotors have started to crack so I need to replace them. The OEM non-drilled rotors are around $700 for the pair. The Girodisc can be had for ~$1000. Is there any reason to not run the Girodisc? Is it a bad idea to run the Girodisc on the front but OEM drilled on the back? Thanks

What's the problem you're trying to fix with them - what's the benefit over OEM that you're looking for? They're a great product, but so are the OEM rotors, which, by the way are now available from Tire Rack as "SHW Performance" products. SHW makes the OEM rotors and the ones at Tire Rack look eerily familiar.

As for mixing, from a driving standpoint, you'll never know the difference - iron rotors all provide the same braking response, at least until you're way out at the edge of the envelope.

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[Specracer]

On an 05 FGT I put Girodiscs only on the front, because the OEM brembo rotors were showing cracks (rears were fine). They have done well with a handful of track days. Using Padgid yellows.

 

[matthewr87]

What's the problem you're trying to fix with them - what's the benefit over OEM that you're looking for? They're a great product, but so are the OEM rotors, which, by the way are now available from Tire Rack as "SHW Performance" products. SHW makes the OEM rotors and the ones at Tire Rack look eerily familiar.

As for mixing, from a driving standpoint, you'll never know the difference - iron rotors all provide the same braking response, at least until you're way out at the edge of the envelope.

That's interesting regarding SHW and Tirerack. Had no idea.

But yeah basically I was just wondering if the Girodiscs were any better than stock in terms of longevity etc. since the non-drilled OEM are close to the Girodiscs in price.

 

[svttim]

Cobalt XR1 front and XR2 rear. This is a very aggressive compound. Needs 3Rs or better tires, imho. Best on slicks.

I’m currently at (4) full days on them at COTA and a little more than half life. I’d expect (4) events on the fronts at COTA to be the norm unless they start to burn faster as they wear. I’ll know more after next weekend.

I seriously can’t comprehend how a pad can bite that hard and last that long. It’s nuts.

When do you discard your pads (mm)

 

[BierGut]

$700 for a pair 15.5 inch floating solid rotors is not expensive in motorsport terms. GiroDisc, while a great product, is $800 for the replacement blanks AND you have to manually attach the hats. I don't see why anyone would add additional work for an extra $100.

I completely understand going with GiroDisc IF you are converting a car from Carbon Ceramics, increasing rotor size, or it's necessitated by a change in caliper (AP Racing, etc.), but I think in this regard Ford did us GT350 owners right. Be happy.

 

[matthewr87]

$700 for a pair 15.5 inch floating solid rotors is not expensive in motorsport terms. GiroDisc, while a great product, is $800 for the replacement blanks AND you have to manually attach the hats. I don't see why anyone would add additional work for an extra $100.

I completely understand going with GiroDisc IF you are converting a car from Carbon Ceramics, increasing rotor size, or it's necessitated by a change in caliper (AP Racing, etc.), but I think in this regard Ford did us GT350 owners right. Be happy.

That's a good point actually. Didn't realize the replacement blanks are more than the OEM rotors as well. I thought they were a bit cheaper.

 

[Biggsy]

Just curious but where are you finding OEM for 350 Each?

 

[NoXiDe]

When do you discard your pads (mm)

I discard mine right before the wear bar (Squeel mark). However, I am sure I am losing bite power and unfortunately, do have to bring my brake zone back. So the question is dependent on are you going for hot laps every session or just for fun... I'm trying to have fun towards the end of the season.

$700 for a pair 15.5 inch floating solid rotors is not expensive in motorsport terms. GiroDisc, while a great product, is $800 for the replacement blanks AND you have to manually attach the hats. I don't see why anyone would add additional work for an extra $100.

I completely understand going with GiroDisc IF you are converting a car from Carbon Ceramics, increasing rotor size, or it's necessitated by a change in caliper (AP Racing, etc.), but I think in this regard Ford did us GT350 owners right. Be happy.

GiroDisc actually last longer and provide more meat if memory serves me right. Regardless, the longevity part is worth the value.

 

[matthewr87]

Just curious but where are you finding OEM for 350 Each?

I ordered the OEM drilled for $199 each from Pfeiffer Wholesale Parts. They have yet to arrive but are supposed to ship first week of Feb. We will see. Backordered like everything else it seems.

As far as the non-drilled rotors go I've seen them for around $350 at all the usual suspects, Lakeland, Tasca, etc. That being said I have no idea if they actually have them in stock or if they are backordered as well.

 

[Biggsy]

I ordered the OEM drilled for $199 each from Pfeiffer Wholesale Parts. They have yet to arrive but are supposed to ship first week of Feb. We will see. Backordered like everything else it seems.

As far as the non-drilled rotors go I've seen them for around $350 at all the usual suspects, Lakeland, Tasca, etc. That being said I have no idea if they actually have them in stock or if they are backordered as well.

yea these days you don’t know if you’ll be waiting days or months. Well centric blanks are not bad while you’re waiting.

GiroDisc actually last longer and provide more meat if memory serves me right. Regardless, the longevity part is worth the value.

Yea I was going to say this. Even if it does cost about $100 more, I don’t find that margin to be unreasonable for a better product that lasts longer.

 

[svttim]

I discard mine right before the wear bar (Squeel mark). However, I am sure I am losing bite power and unfortunately, do have to bring my brake zone back. So the question is dependent on are you going for hot laps every session or just for fun... I'm trying to have fun towards the end of the season.



GiroDisc actually last longer and provide more meat if memory serves me right. Regardless, the longevity part is worth the value.

I have had a pad explode before the squeel mark so, thats a no go for me

 

[NoXiDe]

I have had a pad explode before the squeel mark so, thats a no go for me

Was that an OEM pad or GLoc? I've seen GLoc explode but never heard of OEM having that issue. I know how much I consume rotors and pads as I measure after every event but regardless if I know I won't make it the full 5 sessions and it will just be a PITA to change the pads out at 90 degrees in the heat then I'll make a call to swap pads to my fresh pads.

 

[Jeffwels]

Was that an OEM pad or GLoc? I've seen GLoc explode but never heard of OEM having that issue. I know how much I consume rotors and pads as I measure after every event but regardless if I know I won't make it the full 5 sessions and it will just be a PITA to change the pads out at 90 degrees in the heat then I'll make a call to swap pads to my fresh pads.

I put GLOC pads on my car with 3100 miles on it and the stock pads saw 0 track days and had chunks taken out of the inside front pad on both sides. Might have been a fluke, but it did not give me a warm and fuzzy feeling about the OEM pads. That is on a 2020 car with the smooth rotors.

 

[NoXiDe]

I put GLOC pads on my car with 3100 miles on it and the stock pads saw 0 track days and had chunks taken out of the inside front pad on both sides. Might have been a fluke, but it did not give me a warm and fuzzy feeling about the OEM pads. That is on a 2020 car with the smooth rotors.

I wouldn't be surprised if it was dropped at the assembly line and they decided to install it as-is. Change my mind. LOL

 

[Lurker_350]

@svttim, @Jeffwels - do you think pad chunks might result from washing the car, parking/letting sit, and then having to break loose the pad/rotor when you take off? If I don't dry my rotors by driving a bit immediately after washing, it can take some real throttle to get it to move (accompanied by a loud pop).

Probably not nearly as hard on the pads as actually using the brakes, but was just a thought.

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