Is there any mechanical explanation for the Gen 3 Coyote BBQ tick?

[Bikeman315]

Gonna try 5w30 to get off additive.

Make sure to get a brand that has an “anti-tick” formula.

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[StangTime]

Somewhere there's a ford engineer laughing...

Or an accountant with a fat bonus for forcing engineers to cut corners.

 

[MachNroll]

My 18 GT did it. My 21 Mach 1 does it. I've read tons about it and watched many related YouTube vids. I read the bulletin from Ford that stated the tick is a normal operating characteristic with no explanation regarding what it is.

I have yet to see or read anything from an anonymous Ford dealership level tech or equivalent who was willing to offer an explanation as to what is causing the mystery sound. I figure someone somewhere must know something about it and why Ford has called it normal. So, either thousands of techs are keeping quiet about it, or it truly is a non-issue.

 

[Vlad Soare]

I don't have the tick (yet), but I do have an incredible amount of rattles, buzzes, screeches, squeaks, from all the interior trim pieces, every time the road is anything less than perfect. It's not so bad when I listen to pop music, as it covers most of them, but I can't play anything else, like classical music or podcasts, especially when I have a passenger, because it's deeply embarrassing. It feels like the car is permanently on the verge of breaking into pieces.
If I could choose between all these interior noises and the typewriter tick I would gladly take the latter.

 

[ice445]

I don't have the tick (yet), but I do have an incredible amount of rattles, buzzes, screeches, squeaks, from all the interior trim pieces, every time the road is anything less than perfect. It's not so bad when I listen to pop music, as it covers most of them, but I can't play anything else, like classical music or podcasts, especially when I have a passenger, because it's deeply embarrassing. It feels like the car is permanently on the verge of breaking into pieces.
If I could choose between all these interior noises and the typewriter tick I would gladly take the latter.

That's rather unfortunate. Somehow my interior has no rattles at all. I guess we will see at 100k though lol

 

[paulm1]

I have yet to see or read anything from an anonymous Ford dealership level tech or equivalent who was willing to offer an explanation as to what is causing the mystery sound. I figure someone somewhere must know something about it and why Ford has called it normal. So, either thousands of techs are keeping quiet about it, or it truly is a non-issue.

Just a comment I read from a youtube video, makes sense, but don't know who the commenter is.

"The tick is not piston slap. The tick is oil pressure related. The best answer we have come up with after trying to diagnose everything from big end bearings bumping side to side, to DI noise, is that the tick is most likely from the "Hydraulic Lash Adjuster" on Piston #3. This particular spot is the most arduous path of oil flow to all the HLA's. The problem is, when the oil is cold on startup, there isn't any noise, because cold oil pressure is close to 40psi. As the oil warms up, the hot idle oil pressure drops. As it goes below 30psi, you may start slowly hearing the ticking sound get louder and louder as it continues to drop to 12-15psi at idle while the oil bypass is open. This low pressure drops even further as it has to reach the HLA's. By the time it reaches #3 piston HLA, the pressure is just low enough to cause the Adjuster not to fully inflate, and become lazy. This causes it to have a tiny gap between it and the lifter. So, in a rather non-synchronous way, it will tick as that tiny gap opens just slightly with each cycle of the lifter. As you increase engine RPM, the tick may become slightly more synchronous and noticeable until the engine RPM is high enough to make the oil pressure go above 30psi. Once RPM reaches close to 3,000RPM and the oil bypass then closes, this high pressure also fully inflates the HLA, and no more noise. The Ceratec increases the lubricity of the oil to a point where tight fitting HLA's will inflate easier, and make the ticking go away. The amount of Ceratec needed to stop the ticking varies with each car, as those tiny gaps slightly differ from car to car. My car only requires about 100ml (1/3 bottle) to make the noise go away. When I give it a fresh oil change, I start the car and let it warm up to hot idle. I then slowly pour in Ceratec while at hot idle until the ticking stops (~100ml). That way I can use one bottle for 3 oil changes."

 

[Bulldog9]

I don't have the tick (yet), but I do have an incredible amount of rattles, buzzes, screeches, squeaks, from all the interior trim pieces, every time the road is anything less than perfect. It's not so bad when I listen to pop music, as it covers most of them, but I can't play anything else, like classical music or podcasts, especially when I have a passenger, because it's deeply embarrassing. It feels like the car is permanently on the verge of breaking into pieces.
If I could choose between all these interior noises and the typewriter tick I would gladly take the latter.

The only rattle or squeak I have so far is from the passenger seat. If it is lowered all the way it squeaks. I've been pretty impressed with the F&F. But I am only at 2 years and 17K miles.

 

[Vlad Soare]

The only rattle or squeak I have so far is from the passenger seat. If it is lowered all the way it squeaks. I've been pretty impressed with the F&F. But I am only at 2 years and 17K miles.

That's a good idea. I think my passenger's seat is indeed all the way down. I'll try to raise it a bit to see if it helps with the squeak. All other rattles and buzzes are borderline acceptable with the music on, but the squeak exasperates me.
Thanks.

 

[joe603]

Just a comment I read from a youtube video, makes sense, but don't know who the commenter is.

"The tick is not piston slap. The tick is oil pressure related. The best answer we have come up with after trying to diagnose everything from big end bearings bumping side to side, to DI noise, is that the tick is most likely from the "Hydraulic Lash Adjuster" on Piston #3. This particular spot is the most arduous path of oil flow to all the HLA's. The problem is, when the oil is cold on startup, there isn't any noise, because cold oil pressure is close to 40psi. As the oil warms up, the hot idle oil pressure drops. As it goes below 30psi, you may start slowly hearing the ticking sound get louder and louder as it continues to drop to 12-15psi at idle while the oil bypass is open. This low pressure drops even further as it has to reach the HLA's. By the time it reaches #3 piston HLA, the pressure is just low enough to cause the Adjuster not to fully inflate, and become lazy. This causes it to have a tiny gap between it and the lifter. So, in a rather non-synchronous way, it will tick as that tiny gap opens just slightly with each cycle of the lifter. As you increase engine RPM, the tick may become slightly more synchronous and noticeable until the engine RPM is high enough to make the oil pressure go above 30psi. Once RPM reaches close to 3,000RPM and the oil bypass then closes, this high pressure also fully inflates the HLA, and no more noise. The Ceratec increases the lubricity of the oil to a point where tight fitting HLA's will inflate easier, and make the ticking go away. The amount of Ceratec needed to stop the ticking varies with each car, as those tiny gaps slightly differ from car to car. My car only requires about 100ml (1/3 bottle) to make the noise go away. When I give it a fresh oil change, I start the car and let it warm up to hot idle. I then slowly pour in Ceratec while at hot idle until the ticking stops (~100ml). That way I can use one bottle for 3 oil changes."

That is the best and most technical explanation I've seen yet! Thank you for sharing. I just put in 2 bottles of CerTec because it said each bottle treats 5qts...I'm thinking I should have done the hot idle add. The shit is expensive $25/each. At least the noise is gone now.

 

[cerbomark]

That is the best and most technical explanation I've seen yet! Thank you for sharing. I just put in 2 bottles of CerTec because it said each bottle treats 5qts...I'm thinking I should have done the hot idle add. The shit is expensive $25/each. At least the noise is gone now.

if you can buy it at $25 per bottle buy a case or two cause it went way up in price in my area.

 

[Replicator]

The only rattle or squeak I have so far is from the passenger seat. If it is lowered all the way it squeaks. I've been pretty impressed with the F&F. But I am only at 2 years and 17K miles.

I have an annoying sound coming from my passenger seat as well. It always sounds like it saying "slow down" and "stop driving like an a**hole". All the solutions I've come up with so far for this problem seem to cost a fortune.

 

[paulm1]

I have an annoying sound coming from my passenger seat as well. It always sounds like it saying "slow down" and "stop driving like an a**hole". All the solutions I've come up with so far for this problem seem to cost a fortune.

Ear plugs, less than a buck.

 

[joe603]

if you can buy it at $25 per bottle buy a case or two cause it went way up in price in my area.

That was on Amazon...2 bottles for $50

 

[paulm1]

That is the best and most technical explanation I've seen yet! Thank you for sharing. I just put in 2 bottles of CerTec because it said each bottle treats 5qts...I'm thinking I should have done the hot idle add. The shit is expensive $25/each. At least the noise is gone now.

I've delt with many a lifter tap on older gm v8's and v6's, pushrod motors. You could easily pull the valve cover(s), start the engine, and grab each rocker to feel the play and try to tighten up the lash as a temp fix, then see if it comes back (bad lifter). I dont know if you can run the coyote with the valve cover off, but if so it should be easy to confirm or debunk.

 

[Replicator]

Ear plugs, less than a buck.

It just seems to increase in intensity if I block it out. I tried an exhaust mod to overcome it and it only got worse.

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