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Installing Whipple Stage 2 kit, Recommended Parts outside of What Comes In Kit?

DougS550

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I will be installing a Whipple Stage 2 kit and wanted to know. From People who are running one of the Whipple Kits, is their any supporting Mods/Parts they seem to recommend to Do/install other than what comes in the kit during the installation. Just putting feelers out their.
Thank You For You Help.
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Traction, traction, traction! if you dont have the right wheel/tire combo and appropriate wheel hop mitigation, you wont enjoy the ride. All else is not mandatory although some would argue for crank support, and/or OPG
 
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DougS550

DougS550

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Traction, traction, traction! if you dont have the right wheel/tire combo and appropriate wheel hop mitigation, you wont enjoy the ride. All else is not mandatory although some would argue for crank support, and/or OPG
Thanks. I already did my suspension last year. But, I have decided to keep my pretty new 325/30/19 Firestone Indy tires on untill I spin them dry. Lol
 

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Try new tail lights. Not sure whats wrong with yours in the pic.. It depends how much power you plan to make and what fuel you plan to use that dictates certain mods....
 
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DougS550

DougS550

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Try new tail lights. Not sure whats wrong with yours in the pic.. It depends how much power you plan to make and what fuel you plan to use that dictates certain mods....
I plan to start with 93 to put some miles on it, and then maybe E85. Everything External has been modded accordingly. Was just wondering is their anything outside of the kit, in which people feel the kit was missing or could have had in it. Thanks
 
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DougS550

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Maybe a driver mod?
Thank you all for your input. I guess I will install as, since the concensus is, it's good just as it comes. Nice
 

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As far as the kit goes, not sure what came with yours:

1) VMP IAT2 jumper
2) Whipple specific or modified oil separator(s)
3) Boost gauge (optional)
4) Backup belt (keep in your vehicle)
5) Crank Saver bolt (highly recommended)
6) Bunch of tools (if you don't have already) like digital torque wrench (for both fine - inch-lb and heaver 100-ft-lb), balancer puller, etc.

Take your time on the seal for the upper and lower blower assembly, it needs to be PERFECT, no gaps, no overlap (I recommend, cutting it slightly longer and then gradually removing a little bit and test fitting it). Ensure you EVENLY snug down the bolts in the prescribed pattern evenly.

Also, you need to get the position of the tensioner correct. It's very confusing from Whipple (especially because the markings/labeling on it are non-sensical) so there's a few threads/videos on it. This will prevent you from frustration later with belts jumping or snapping.

Also, the instructions are pretty limited when it comes to getting specific idlers, spacers and bolts in their proper place. Check, double check and triple check, it's very easy to swap locations and have alignment issues.

Lots of guys report having problems with flex in the throttle body, so one of the solutions that seems to help sometimes is to ditch the gasket and just use a tiny bit of gasket maker and evenly/slowly torque the bolts on each side to get an even and uniform force on it and perfect parallel. You can try the gasket, some guys don't have issues with it.

Make sure you burp the intercooler system properly, you'll know if you have air pockets because you'll be getting high IAT's, it takes awhile for the system to fully get all the voids out, recommend running it with the cap off for awhile and massaging the hoses to dislodge any air pockets.

If it were me, I'd TAPE a note card to my key FOB and over the start button that has a list of things not to forget (the most important of which is to put oil in the blower). If you forget that, by the time you figure it out, it'll be much too late.
 

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I've been running mine for almost 18 months with nothing more than what came in the kit, and I have no complaints.
I just installed my Whipple stage 2 kit the past week. Did you happen to do OPGs or CS? I have some on order, but I'm not excited for the install.
 

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DougS550

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As far as the kit goes, not sure what came with yours:

1) VMP IAT2 jumper
2) Whipple specific or modified oil separator(s)
3) Boost gauge (optional)
4) Backup belt (keep in your vehicle)
5) Crank Saver bolt (highly recommended)
6) Bunch of tools (if you don't have already) like digital torque wrench (for both fine - inch-lb and heaver 100-ft-lb), balancer puller, etc.

Take your time on the seal for the upper and lower blower assembly, it needs to be PERFECT, no gaps, no overlap (I recommend, cutting it slightly longer and then gradually removing a little bit and test fitting it). Ensure you EVENLY snug down the bolts in the prescribed pattern evenly.

Also, you need to get the position of the tensioner correct. It's very confusing from Whipple (especially because the markings/labeling on it are non-sensical) so there's a few threads/videos on it. This will prevent you from frustration later with belts jumping or snapping.

Also, the instructions are pretty limited when it comes to getting specific idlers, spacers and bolts in their proper place. Check, double check and triple check, it's very easy to swap locations and have alignment issues.

Lots of guys report having problems with flex in the throttle body, so one of the solutions that seems to help sometimes is to ditch the gasket and just use a tiny bit of gasket maker and evenly/slowly torque the bolts on each side to get an even and uniform force on it and perfect parallel. You can try the gasket, some guys don't have issues with it.

Make sure you burp the intercooler system properly, you'll know if you have air pockets because you'll be getting high IAT's, it takes awhile for the system to fully get all the voids out, recommend running it with the cap off for awhile and massaging the hoses to dislodge any air pockets.

If it were me, I'd TAPE a note card to my key FOB and over the start button that has a list of things not to forget (the most important of which is to put oil in the blower). If you forget that, by the time you figure it out, it'll be much too late.
Great help, thank you. My kit I bought from Beefcake, so oversized heat exchanger, 170 theromostat. Thanks
 

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I just installed my Whipple stage 2 kit the past week. Did you happen to do OPGs or CS? I have some on order, but I'm not excited for the install.
I did do them at the same time, and it really wasn't as bad as I was expecting. Most of my wrenching experience is just dirt bikes and ATVs, so I was feeling pretty intimidated, but since it isn't a daily driver, I was able to take my time. For me, the worst part was getting a new oil pan gasket into place with the pan only dropped down about 1-2 inches. I probably didn't need to replace the gasket, but the car had 31k miles at the time, so I decided to replace gaskets/seals on everything that I took apart. Probably sounds crazy, but after I wrapped it all up, I was a little bummed, I realized how much I missed wrenching on stuff and how therapeutic it can be. Just take your time, and enjoy the project.
 
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DougS550

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I feel the same way. I think I will replace the comlete oil pump assembly with maybe a Boundary billet Pro assembly and MMR Billet timing chain kit. Do you all plan on going E85 down the road (if you haven't already)
 

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Thanks. I already did my suspension last year. But, I have decided to keep my pretty new 325/30/19 Firestone Indy tires on untill I spin them dry. Lol
I have those. Nope. Not gonna hook. I'm going to go with M/T ET Street for the rear on the next go. I was daily driving the car for a year and went with the firestones which I like and they wear great. Boosted is just asking too much of them from a dig.

For add ons, I did an oil separator on the pass side and the HD exchanger because I live in the south. Running 20x11 in the rear now. I did put a boost gauge in the middle vent and it comes in handy. Otherwise just the kit and whipple tune which my "only" complaint is high start up idle (1700rpm) when warm for about 10 secs but I have zero tune complaints otherwise so I'm not going to chase that.

Give yourself 3 solid unbothered days for install and enjoy it. I would call this kit a bolt on and I'm the average mechanical guy. I did remove the rear cowling and battery box plate to give me extra room to work. I'm glad I did. Buy one of those $15 windshield wiper pull tools, and the tool to pull the pump out of the tank. Cuts way down on curse words. LOL
 
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I have a stage 1.5 kit. Basically stage 1 using the stock TB, but with the smaller 3.875 pulley, ditched the 4". I added the IAT2 harness for the ability to get a good aftermarket tune from Wengerd. I also did FIC1000 injectors and have plenty of fuel system to run 93 and e20. I also run a 305/45/17 ET Street SS and even on the street at 30ish PSI, its not enough tire from a dig or slow roll. Anything less would be dangerous to drive on period.

I did not to the CS or OPGs as i was on a budget at the time. I wish I did for that piece of mind, but honestly I've heard of people breaking the boundry OPGs as well. Im hearing the trend is manual cars that bounce off the limiter where they are prone to break. Im a10, so I decided to skip them. If you are going to do them, the FRPP OPGs are supposed to be the best. Again, I have no experience with those.

Also dont forget oil, and plugs and coolant. I dont believe any of that will come with the kit. Get the NGK6510's and gap them to .026-.028. Also get full synthetic oil 5w50, I went with Mobil 1. And FRPP oil filter. Also we went with the green coolant for both the IC system and the car's system.

Tune wise I did a straight up 93 tune with Wengerd. Car absolutely RIPS. I did 10.5@135 in 2500da 90* heat here in FL. I went back last week in much better cooler air and snapped the driver's side axle. So that was my next point. NO racing until you get some axles. GT350 or better ones.
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