Installing the FI interchiller on my Roushcharged Gen3 Coyote

[engineermike]

I *think* you’ll need to log spksaf and all of the knkkc tags.

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[RSKTAKR]

I'm sure it's not easy at all to route as an assembled line.

it won’t be. The blower head unit would need to be removed at the very least.

 

[SH!FT]

I *think* you’ll need to log spksaf and all of the knkkc tags.

Let's go with that lol. The 10th spot will be IAT12_ENG.

I just emailed Roush for a cheat sheet to decipher these DMR tags. Likely won't get a response until Monday though.

 

[RSKTAKR]

@RSKTAKR
Nice what company?? Can you post a picture installed?

Sounds like the 2013 has a longer rubber section than the S550.

I don’t have any pics of my install and my car is already parked over in storage for the winter. Here is the company that has the Burgaflex fittings. My 2013 uses #6 and #12 fittings, I’m not sure what other years use. And ya, my rubber hose is about 10” long on my 2013 whereas the s550 rubber hose is a bit shorter. If I was going to have to do any bracing, I was just going to remove the hard tube connection to my ford condenser, the the same hose I cut and I would be able to braze the fitting on without pulling that entire line out that runs all the way to the firewall behind the motor/blower headunit.

https://www.mastercoolparts.com/product-category/fittings/burgaclip-fittings/

 

[SH!FT]

I thought I have read some ones already makes the Modified AC Line for this application.

I know this Killer Chiller is one alternative

Cutting the OEM hose to braze on a barb is quick and easy if you're careful. I heard it sucks fishing the whole high side hard line in and out of the car.

Discussed here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/updated-killer-chiller-content.161644/

I'm sure it's not easy at all to route as an assembled line.

@DougS550

@Fx2beast would be a good guy to talk to if you're dead set on removing/installing the whole high side liquid line. He covers it briefly at 20:12 in his killer chiller install video.

 

[SH!FT]

I don’t have any pics of my install and my car is already parked over in storage for the winter. Here is the company that has the fittings. My 2013 uses #6 and #12 fittings, I’m not sure what other years use. And ya, my rubber hose is about 10” long on my 2013 whereas the s550 rubber hose is a bit shorter. If I was going to have to do any bracing, I was just going to remove the hard tube connection to my ford condenser, the the same hose I cut and I would be able to braze the fitting on without pulling that entire line out that runs all the way to the firewall behind the motor/blower headunit.

https://www.mastercoolparts.com/product-category/fittings/burgaclip-fittings/

Nice! Hopefully Kirk knows about this place now.

I felt bad when he had to rush ship me a few #14 components from AUS. My 2020's suction line is #14 instead of #12 because of the crap 1234yf refrigerant system.
The fatter #14 plumbing is less flexible and harder to insulate.

Did you record any data logs before putting the car away? I'm looking for data to compare with mine if I can get out and record some data tomorrow. @Markuaw1 posted some data in the Roush Kit thread. I'm expecting to under perform the stage 2 kit even if my IAT1 is 15F cooler.

I Installed the stage 2 FI interchiller on my Roush 2650 best money ever spent temps are great now

 

[RSKTAKR]

Kirk and I had a miscommunication about some fittings I ordered vs what I was sent so he told me about that company to order fittings from so I could get them sooner. I never got a chance to do any logs or anything. I put more r134 in and overfilled it so I ended up having some removed so I wouldn’t mess up my compressor or anything and I’m just going to buy the vacuum pump, gauges, scale, temp gauge and 12oz cans of r134 and evacuate everything, start at 21oz and then fill/record results in spring. The lowest my coolant got post chiller was 39 degree. Didnt get a chance to get into a good pull or anything yet either.

 

[SH!FT]

Good call on the DMRs tags @engineermike .

Had some fun with the RDT datalogger and AeroForce interceptor gauge today. Both use the ODBII port, so I can't use them at the same time. I wish RDT allowed more space for a RPMs column. Pretty sure I still filtered the hits correctly though.

Note: I really wanted to log a 4th gear pull, but the highway was crazy busy with holiday traffic. WOT 1st->3rd is pretty pointless with my current setup. The car prefers to kick sideways, but this should at least provide some comparable data.

Before logging I tried to push the car to what would normally be heat soak conditions with the LTR:
I started the car at 2:00pm and got it to operating temp. Then got it nice and hot with >10 mins of spirited stop/go driving on the way to a quiet 3 lane spot for some WOT pulls and unwanted fishtailing. It then heat soaked in a parking spot for a couple of minutes while I connecting the RDT software.

Below are the only 2 logs where I was able to keep the throttle pinned from ~3.5k to redline in track mode. I did 5 pulls total with RDT connected. 2:20pm was #3. 2:21pm was #4.

• The 2:20pm log was 2nd gear and the car went completely sideways.
• It took me about a minute to reach a parking lot and turn around.
• The 2:21pm was 3rd gear in the oppose direction.

IAT1 was constant at 52F. IC coolant supply was between 15F and 25F.

I then disconnected the J2534 passthru and did a couple more pulls with the AeroForce gauge connected. At a glance the Ign_adv remained at 17*-18*and my KR indicator light never flashed. The set point is +0.3*.

I'm pretty happy with the results. Hopefully this was informative.

 

[SH!FT]

I wish I data logged before installing the chiller for comparison. @Markuaw1 do have any logs pre-chiller? Are you still running the Roush tune in your run that I quoted in post #126?

 

[Markuaw1]

I wish I data logged before installing the chiller for comparison. @Markuaw1 do have any logs pre-chiller? Are you still running the Roush tune in your run that I quoted in post #126?

Don't have any logs from before the interchiller was installed and the one that I shared the car was running on the Palm Beach Dyno tune

 

[SH!FT]

I've been looking for a way to cover up the now foam insulated #14 suction refrigerant line. A 1 7/8" shop vac hose seems to work well and matches the texture of the OEM loom cover.

 

[engineermike]

I just got another version of the phase 2 cal. This one has a higher cylinder pressure limit of 23 deg timing, but also doesn’t add any when you drop the charge temp.

 

[SH!FT]

I just got another version of the phase 2 cal. This one has a higher cylinder pressure limit of 23 deg timing, but also doesn’t add any when you drop the charge temp.

Nice! Thanks for the heads up.

Is this their latest cal rev, or did you have to request the parameter change?

 

[engineermike]

It’s just one that I was sent.

 

[SH!FT]

Got my game plan for increasing the IC coolant compacity of the chiller system.

I've been bothering VMP and AFE Power about mixing and matching their parts. I should be able to nearly double the coolant compacity by using the VMP ice tank and swapping out the oversized Roush airbox enclosure for a smaller AFE enclosure.
Won't be cheap, but should look clean when it's complete.

VMP offers 2 ice tank kits:

• Odin 5.0L kit
• GT500 kit

I'll go with the GT500 kit if I can confirm that the ice tank itself is the same part number as in the Odin 5.0L kit.

I have to ditch or mangle the Roush airbox housing:

• Chopping up the Roush CAI housing would look awful. Could suck in hot air from engine or condensation from chiller.
• The heat shield housing from the Odin CAI kit would obviously fit with the ice tank, but I can't justify paying $500 for it. AFE has this heat shield in stock for $120 but... will only sell it as a replacement/warranty. I also don't like that this shield seals to the hood.

The housing from the AFE Momentum GT CAI seems to be my best option with hopefully minimal modification. It's compact and fully enclosed. Plus, the kit is on sale for $384 at the moment.

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