Installing the FI interchiller on my Roushcharged Gen3 Coyote

Stage_3

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I cant wait to get my hands on the stage 2 system. Its literally the last mod for this car. When I had it dyno'd. it made 930whp with the trunk mount ice tank full of ice
Holy smokes! 930RWHP?!?!
What mods have you done to your car?

 

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Holy smokes! 930RWHP?!?!
What mods have you done to your car?
I dont have my 2015 GT anymore, I have a 2013 GT that is making that power. My wife also has a bone stock 2013 Boss 302 with 5900 miles that sits in storage. My 930whp GT has Rods/pistons Gen1 shortblock, stock gen1 heads/cams, LT’s, no cats, VMP Gen3r blower, ported lower, VMP return style fuel system, ID1300’s, twin 67 TB, Innovators West 5% lower, 72mm upper, tuned on E85. Built 6r80 with a small stall (that I don’t really use). Car has been a best of [email protected] if I remember correctly… that was with less boost, smaller blower and more weight. Now it has 200more whp, and is 60lbs lighter. After I pull the ice tank in the trunk, all the 1” ID hose running the full length of the car… twice, along with the VMP triple pass HE in favor of the Inter Chiller kit, I imagine some more weight will be lost. I’d be happy with a low 9 or high 8 sec pass… if I can drive it lol.
 
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I was looking for a gauge today that I could tap the probe into my reservoir tank so I can get fluid temp reading but haven’t found a gauge that will go that low yet.
This gauge kit seems to work for me now that I'm using the low temp parameters:
AF-CNF01-2011 Aeroforce Ford CN Interceptor Scan Gauge
AeroForce 1/8 npt fluid temp sensor
1661275827881.png


As the trend shows above, it does seem to start reading slightly high when the temps hit above 60F. Luckily, that's not the temp range to focus on.

I think it's key to have a real time IC coolant temp readout installed with the chiller. IAT2 is the goal but it's coolant temp driven.

IAT2 readings and recovery time can be deceiving when cruising or at idle. You'll think you're starting to heat soak based on IAT2, but fluid temps may actually be dropping. High IAT2s will then decrease 15-30F as soon as throttle position increases. Having the coolant temps available also really helps understand how messing with the cabin HVAC controls affects the chiller's cooling capabilities in different situations.

For coldest temps based on the little testing I've done so far:
  1. Start car with radiator fans on full, cabin AC on max, and hood open. IC coolant temps start dropping within seconds. I use the Roush 3 Minute Cool Down Feature
  2. Once the coolant temps start to level out: Close the cabin refrigerant valve. IC coolant temps will again start dropping within seconds.
  3. Once the coolant temps start to level out with the valve closed: Periodic revs will drop IAT2. Drop the IAT2 as low as possible without spiking coolant temp.
 
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I have the IAT2 shown on my gauge cluster and on my SCT X4 right now. You are using that probe that transmits back to your Aeroforce gauge? Where is your probe mounted? I was wanting to monitor the actual temp of the coolant as well as IAT2's and it looks like the Aeroforce can do that based on your pics and what you monitor too?
This gauge kit seems to work for me now that I'm using the low temp parameters:
AF-CNF01-2011 Aeroforce Ford CN Interceptor Scan Gauge
AeroForce 1/8 npt fluid temp sensor
1661275827881.png


As the trend shows above, it does seem to start reading slightly high when the temps hit above 60F. Luckily, that's not the temp range to focus on.

I think it's key to have a real time IC coolant temp readout installed with the chiller. IAT2 is the goal but it's coolant temp driven.

IAT2 readings and recovery time can be deceiving when cruising or at idle. You'll think you're starting to heat soak based on IAT2, but fluid temps may actually be dropping. High IAT2s will then decrease 15-30F as soon as throttle position increases. Having the coolant temps available also really helps understand how messing with the cabin HVAC controls affects the chiller's cooling capabilities in different situations.

For coldest temps based on the little testing I've done so far:
  1. Start car with radiator fans on full, cabin AC on max, and hood open. IC coolant temps start dropping within seconds. I use the Roush 3 Minute Cool Down Feature
  2. Once the coolant temps start to level out: Close the cabin refrigerant valve. IC coolant temps will again start dropping within seconds.
  3. Once the coolant temps start to level out will the valve closed: Periodic revs will drop IAT2. Drop the IAT2 as low as possible without spiking coolant temp.

I have the IAT2 shown on my gauge cluster and on my SCT X4 right now. You are using that probe that transmits back to your Aeroforce gauge? Where is your probe mounted? I was wanting to monitor the actual temp of the coolant in the tank as well as IAT2's and it looks like the Aeroforce can do that based on your pics and what you monitor too? Does the probe just plug into the back of the Aeroforce gauge separate from the OBD2 plug/cable?
 

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I dont have my 2015 GT anymore, I have a 2013 GT that is making that power. My wife also has a bone stock 2013 Boss 302 with 5900 miles that sits in storage. My 930whp GT has Rods/pistons Gen1 shortblock, stock gen1 heads/cams, LT’s, no cats, VMP Gen3r blower, ported lower, VMP return style fuel system, ID1300’s, twin 67 TB, Innovators West 5% lower, 72mm upper, tuned on E85. Built 6r80 with a small stall (that I don’t really use). Car has been a best of [email protected] if I remember correctly… that was with less boost, smaller blower and more weight. Now it has 200more whp, and is 60lbs lighter. After I pull the ice tank in the trunk, all the 1” ID hose running the full length of the car… twice, along with the VMP triple pass HE in favor of the Inter Chiller kit, I imagine some more weight will be lost. I’d be happy with a low 9 or high 8 sec pass… if I can drive it lol.
Beastly bro!!!
Those 2300 series blowers were/are great when considering a strip car. Good luck with the future pass down the strip!
 


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Oh it works great on the street too. I MIGHT hit up the dragstrip once a year and that's only if I do a new mod that might make a pretty noticeable difference. My car is mostly a street car.
 
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1. Where is your probe mounted? I was wanting to monitor the actual temp of the coolant as well as IAT2's and it looks like the Aeroforce can do that based on your pics and what you monitor too?

2. Does the probe just plug into the back of the Aeroforce gauge separate from the OBD2 plug/cable?

#1
The probe is mounted on the 3/4" heater hose supply to the blower. I used a GlowShift 19mm Hose Attachment.

You'll want to plumb your reservoir tank(s) on the return side. Coolant should go directly to the blower once it's chilled. The supply and return hosing from the chiller should be as short as possible to the blower to minimize losses. You'll want to foam insulate the entire hose run on the supply and return to max performance. Tank(s) must be insulated as well. Buy the tank foam sheet from FI when purchasing the kit. It's good stuff and stinks well!

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#2
The interceptor gauge has 2 analog inputs separate from the OBD2 harness that interoperate 0-5vdc. It's best to buy AeroForce's probes because they are preprogramming in the gauge.

The gauge can read a bunch of stuff through OBD2. The gauge is in low supply at the moment. Try to get a 3.84 version or higher if you do buy.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...AL_rev_3.8.4_new_Dec_15_2021.pdf?v=1639599980
1661353511825.png
 

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#1
The probe is mounted on the 3/4" heater hose supply to the blower. I used a GlowShift 19mm Hose Attachment.

You'll want to plumb your reservoir tank(s) on the return side. Coolant should go directly to the blower once it's chilled. The supply and return hosing from the chiller should be as short as possible to the blower to minimize losses. You'll want to foam insulate the entire hose run on the supply and return to max performance. Tank(s) must be insulated as well. Buy the tank foam sheet from FI when purchasing the kit. It's good stuff and stinks well!

1661352099785.png
1661352367508.png




#2
The interceptor gauge has 2 analog inputs separate from the OBD2 harness that interoperate 0-5vdc. It's best to buy AeroForce's probes because they are preprogramming in the gauge.

The gauge can read a bunch of stuff through OBD2. The gauge is in low supply at the moment. Try to get a 3.84 version or higher if you do buy.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...AL_rev_3.8.4_new_Dec_15_2021.pdf?v=1639599980
1661353511825.png
Ok, so are you using the Glowshift 19mm hose attachment with an Aeroforce probe/gauge that just has the same thread size? Aeroforce is pre-programming the gauge and the probe for the lower temp parameters you said?
 
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SH!FT

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Ok, so are you using the Glowshift 19mm hose attachment with an Aeroforce probe/gauge that just has the same thread size? Aeroforce is pre-programming the gauge and the probe for the lower temp parameters you said?
Yup. The AF sensor and GS hose attachment are 1/8" NPT. The sensor includes a 5v regulator/conditioner. The AF gauge includes a 2nd wiring harness for analog inputs and ACC power.

The gauge is preprogrammed with the correct conversion. You'll just need to go through the menu screens to activate the input and change the slope/intercept values for cold temps. It's very easy to do and AF provides good instructions.
 
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I'm going to start running through the build. I'll mainly cover the A La Carte items not included with the interchiller kit.

NOTE: This how I did it. Not a work instruction. Confirm everything with FI because they know best.

My order of operation was all over the place for this project. I spent a ton of time test fitting, uninstalling, and reinstalling things. Hindsight is 20/20. Looking back, I would start the chiller build by completing the electrical first.

FI's wiring instructions are simple and easy to follow. I complicated things.
  • I won't cut factory wiring.
  • I added a gauge and water temp sensor. AF's instructions are good.
  • I got fed up with not having ACC power readily available in the cabin so I added a fuse block in the footwell.
  • I'm not thrilled that the drag valve is normally closed so I spliced in a 24" bypass cable on to cable #1. This allows the option to bypass the switch circuit and energize the valve directly from the battery using my trickle changer port. The bypass plug also serves as a test port for a volt multimeter. Cable #1 must be unplugged from #2 before jumping #1 to the battery.
Here's my wire diagram:
Goal: The electrics return to Roush OEM for dealer diagnostics by simply unplugging the add a circuit harness. My add a circuit harness design is shown in post #36.
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1661402255774.jpeg

Fuse A: 20A
Fuse B: 15A
Fuse C: 3A x 4
Cable #1 bypass fuse: 10A


Started by making 7 cables:
Plugs with the yellow seals are female.
1661396689415.png
1661398020114.png


Cable #3 breakdown:
1661398186563.jpeg


Combining cables 2 and 3 to make the chiller harness:
1661398326270.jpeg


Install pics:
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I'm not thrilled that the drag valve is normally closed so I spliced in a 24" bypass cable on to cable #1. This allows the option to bypass the switch circuit and energize the valve directly from the battery using my trickle changer port. The bypass plug also serves as a test port for a volt multimeter. Cable #1 must be unplugged from #2 before jumping #1 to the battery.
Forgive me for my ignorance, but could you explain this please? Does that mean that the valve is normally closed under normal operation with/without the switch in the cabin and you added the bypass harness to test that valve outside of the switch or something? Is this something I should consider with my install? Also, looking at your pics, it looks like you have two coolant temp probes in two different coolant lines with the Glow Shift probe/T you had posted pics of earlier, if that is the case, why and where are you reading the other temp at? Is all of this extra wiring really needed for this install? I just thought there would be wiring needed for the fans (stage 2 kit), and a harness for the bypass valve and switch in the cabin. I currently have two fans on my triple pass HE that I will be removing but I already have the two plugs there for power after I remove the HE and fans for the Interchiller install. I already have the VMP wire harness up front for the pump as well, so I wont need to run that either.
 
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All good. That post is confusing.

Here's all that's needed to control the valve. The switch will need ground for its little indicator light to work. (switch LED is on when cabin AC has refrigerant flow)

For ref: This 4-pin relay is normally open. Pin 30 and 87 remain disconnected until the relay is energized.

1661439590944.png



Jumper/Tester cable:
If you add this make sure it has a fuse and pin 87 can be unplugged.
The fuse protects if I'm dumb and jump the coil to the battery but forget to first unplug the valve from the relay. I have quick disconnect plug on pins 85 and 87.
1661440508928.png


Why I added this ?
  1. Mainly for troubleshooting with a multimeter during the build. The valve is quiet. I wanted to be sure it was functioning. The cable makes it quick to read voltage across the coil.
  2. With engine off the car kept going into a power save mode and closing the valve.
  3. I did a 24 hr leak test with the valve open and then closed before adding the R134a. I was able to plug the valve into a AC/DC power supply for the open test.
  4. The provided refrigerant valve with the kit is normally closed making the default no cabin AC if the electronics fail or are removed. This is not a track car. I hate the heat. I can now easily have my cabin AC back quick if something goes wrong on the road (unless the coil sh!ts the bed of course).
I wish FI also offered a normally open valve for street cars.
 

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That sucks that the default is no cabin AC.. I hate the heat as well, and always have the AC on as my car also, isn't a track car. I will have to inquire about that when I place my order.. .to see if that's a possible configuration for that valve.
 
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I can't help with stage 2.

There's a good chance you'll be able to grab power at the VMP fan circuit if they're always full blast when car is running. Obviously confirm with VMP. You'll also need to confirm that the circuit can handle the load being added.

Note: It's recommended to not use the ignition circuit to power delicate electronics.

My 2nd water temp sensor:
The Roush kit had a temp sensor mounted on the inlet of the LTR. It would throw a code if I disconnect. It will apparently warn me if the IC coolant ever overheated. I'm working with Roush to give me the parameters to read it on the AF interceptor. I don't expect it to be accurate at these cold temps though.
 
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Next would be the fixturing after testing the electronics. IC coolant needs to be drained and the heat exchanger removed.

There's no mounting fixture included for the chiller or valve. A drier bracket is included.

Chiller mounting plate:
The mock up is shown in post #46. I started with a 6" x 20" steel plate 0.130" thick. All measurements are based on square to the condenser face. The plate is centered on the crash bar. All tapped holes and hardware are M8 x 1.25.

There's ~6" of space between the factory crash bar and condenser which is plenty of room for stage 1 components.
1658294434494-jpeg.jpg


1661480777891.jpeg

  • The left y-axis on the plate above marks the distance from the condenser face. Front corners of the chiller mounting plate are mounted 7.5" from the face of the factory condenser.
  • The right (X,Y) marks the distance from the right front corner of the plate (marked 0") for the center holes.
  • The crash bar mounting holes are drilled/tapped 6.75" from the condenser face. There's a pinch weld inside the crash bar that must be avoided.
1661479739280.jpeg


Hand drilling the mounted crash bar is a bad idea. It's quick to remove.

The paint lines from the hardware make it easy to realign the crash bar once holes are added. I also traced the sensor bracket with a sharpie before unbolting it to insure it stays aligned.
Anyone else hit their head and shins on this little bastard or is it just me?
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Final dimensions of the chiller mounting plate are 5.5" x 20" x 0.130" thick. I wouldn't go much thicker than this. The mounting studs on the chiller are not very tall. There's a 2" gap between the chiller and condenser face. Hole diameters shown below.
1661486037290.png
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I had to slide the chiller forward in the slots for it to rest against the crash bar. I would drill 3/8" holes at (15.16", 3.47") and (4.84", 3.47") if I didn't have slotting capability. The chiller mounting studs come with nyloc nuts. The factory wire harness clips fit snug in the 0.28" thru holes. You can now see the wiring harness when the sun hits the grille but I think it looks clean.
1661487002621.jpeg


Foil tape the base of the chiller before mounting so the insulation doesn't stick to the mounting plate.
1661487935010.jpeg



Drier mounting bracket:
This bracket was super easy to modify. It fits perfect with the existing crash bar hardware once the mounting holes on the bracket are opened.
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Solenoid mounting bracket:
I made the bracket out of a 3" steel L-bracket that I had laying around. I replaced that Roush bolt with a longer M8 x 30 mm bolt to provide a stud for mounting the valve. There's a 5/16" flat, lock, and 1.25" fender washer stacked under the bracket. On top is a 5/16" x 1.25" fender washer and secured with a M8 1.25mm nut.
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