Installing the FI interchiller on my Roushcharged Gen3 Coyote

RSKTAKR

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How long did the system take to show up after you placed your order?

 
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Ordered on June 27. I received the kit from DHL on July 8.
 

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I hope to add this to the winter project list.
 
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Finally done and drove it to work today. Difference in cooling performance once the system is insulated is night and day. Anything plastic or metal must be wrapped or it will sweat.

The cabin AC is as cold if not colder than before. The switch to R134a was a good call. Cruising on an 80 degree day put the coolant temps at ~45F. That's with the cabinet AC on and my insulation needs improvement. The system is cooled within 2 minutes of starting the car.

Having "Max A/C" on improves the chiller's performance slightly.

Closing the cabin AC valve seems to greatly improve the chiller's performance. Haven't taken temps yet, but "chiller only" makes all of the rubber heater hose and low side AC lines start to pour sweat.

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I closed the solenoid valve to cut the cabin A/C on the drive home. Coolant temps get way colder. The chiller's coolant outlet got well below freezing. Ambient was 70F.

I did a couple pulls. The coolant temps recovered within a minute.

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RSKTAKR

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Do you mean that you hit the air recirculate button when the ac is on and it gets way colder?
 
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Having the max a/c and recirculate button does seem to slightly lower the coolant temperate compared to just having the a/c or defrost button on.

The big difference maker is closing the shut off valve that is included with the chiller kit.
A universal chiller install diagram is shown here: https://fiinterchillers.com/tech_articles/how-does-a-universal-interchiller-kit-adapt-to-my-car/


This solenoid valve cuts refrigerant flow to the cabin's evap system. The valve is easily controlled by installing a toggle switch in the cabin per FI's instructions. Installed my switch here: post #47

Flipping this switch (valve closed) dropped my IC coolant temp by almost half yesterday compared to valve open. Ice will likely form on metal if not properly insulated with valve closed.

It's easy to confirm that the switch and valve are functioning.
  • Coolant temps plummet within seconds when the valve is closed.
  • I hear a slight hiss while driving when the switch energizes the valve and refrigerant flow is restored to the cabin. Coolant temps will also start to increase.
I think adding a temp sensor to the chiller's water outlet and/or inlet is an absolute must for piece of mind. I'll post how I did that.
 

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Glad to see it’s working well for you and doing what it’s supposed to do. I use to drive with my shut off valve closed all the time so that my iat2’s would always be lower. Sure would get hot inside the car thou in the FL heat!
 

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Glad to see it’s working well for you and doing what it’s supposed to do. I use to drive with my shut off valve closed all the time so that my iat2’s would always be lower. Sure would get hot inside the car thou in the FL heat!
The sacrifices we do in the quest of power and handling, lol.
 

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It was super humid last night and the windshield started to fog with the valve closed. That got sketchy with oncoming headlights.

Found that I could switch the blower to max defrost and crank the heat to clear the fog but still maintain subfreezing coolant temps.

The quirky HVAC control will take some getting use to. Well worth it though.
 

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I cant wait to get my hands on the stage 2 system. Its literally the last mod for this car. When I had it dyno'd. it made 930whp with the trunk mount ice tank full of ice and I think my IAT's were still between 100 and 120 degrees. So I'm definitely after some cooler IAT's and the power gain.
 
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Coolant temps will definitely reach below freezing, but I'm finding it hard to get accurate read outs. Temps went negative F on the interceptor gauge when I was stuck in traffic the other night which can't be correct.

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Seems that water temps are falling within the most inaccurate portion of the temp sensor's linear conversion. By default this water temp sensor is dialed in to read 150F - 250F. I'm sure most brands will be programmed this way.

AeroForce has been great. They've provided different parameters that I can input myself to boost the accuracy at <75F. So far it seems to have improved the issue. I want to do a bit more testing before posting more details.
 

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I was looking for a gauge today that I could tap the probe into my reservoir tank so I can get fluid temp reading but haven’t found a gauge that will go that low yet.
 
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