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Installed ford racing oil-air separator, need help!

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Atlas1

Atlas1

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I have done the exact same install on my Mach 1 and the connector has not broken.
It is clear how to disconnect the connector.
Pull back on the red clip.
Slowly ease out the connector.

I believe it is a warranty issue. (the throttlebody little black thing was already broken)

Speak to your Dealer
thank you
i would like to think this connector is something i could have managed to figure out. i work with airplane parts all day so if it ends up being my fault, say your prayers before the next flight you take :cwl:
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part number for the Mach 1 throttle body and motor assembly.........price is $307.20 through Levittown Ford Parts

KR3Z-9E926-A
The Ford Performance one is $223
 

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The real question is however, how is someone supposed to unplug the connector safely. Looking at the details of the connector (with pulled an pushed red tab) posted by @Atlas1 it is not very clear. I guess there must be a way as the connector itself looks like someone really made an effort to design something robust.
I’ve had to use a really small eye-glass flat head screw driver to stick into the female plug end, and lift up the female “catch” in order to clear the male catch tab. It happens in multiple vehicle platform plugs, Ford just must’ve fugged this one up? Or OP did? :-)

Jbplastiweld for the win.
 
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I’ve had to use a really small eye-glass flag head screw driver to stick into the female plug end, and lift up the female “catch” in order to clear the male catch tab. It happens in multiple vehicle platform plugs, Ford just must’ve fugged this one up? Or OP did? :-)

Jbplestiweld for the win.
I very well could have! I would own it if I did but I swear I might as well have been wearing white gloves the whole time. I studied each step and took way more time than it should have to try and make it perfect. Like I said earlier I was completely surprised when the connector didn’t go back on 😔
 

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Hey it takes some getting use to the way these locking clips work. Each one has its own dance. I hate but respect them, certainly could live without them.

Have learned to be sure to pull the lock fully back before installing.
 

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I’ve had to use a really small eye-glass flat head screw driver to stick into the female plug end, and lift up the female “catch” in order to clear the male catch tab.
I understand the idea, but I am still a bit hopeful that there might be some "official" way to unplug it safely. Something like pushing on the connector housing, or the red tab (when pulled out), something which would look more like someone has designed it that way.

Considering that the fin pin on the OP's picture is completely shaved to the ground level, I cannot imagine the shear force needed for that. Unless the material is very brittle, or it was actually already damaged in this way from the factory.
 

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Pulling back on the red or up on the white locks (think hoses) is the way to go. The first move to release the lock, then remove the plug (red) or hose (white).

Looking at the TB notice the lock is a ramp. That is telling me the red release should be pushed back home. Then the plug goes into the socket, with a snap.

If someone were to use a tool to get the red lock to release from the ramp if hung. I think I'd use a feeler gauge. Or something that is thin (slim jim) with a flat surface greater then a eye glass screw driver.

There must be a you-tuber out there ? All decked out with dress mech gloves. Frailing arms and hands, as if trying to fly. Demonstrating the proper proceedure to deal with these. news @ 11
 
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Atlas1

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Pulling back on the red or up on the white locks (think hoses) is the way to go. The first move to release the lock, then remove the plug (red) or hose (white).

Looking at the TB notice the lock is a ramp. That is telling me the red release should be pushed back home. Then the plug goes into the socket, with a snap.

If someone were to use a tool to get the red lock to release from the ramp if hung. I think I'd use a feeler gauge. Or something that is thin (slim jim) with a flat surface greater then a eye glass screw driver.

There must be a you-tuber out there ? All decked out with dress mech gloves. Frailing arms and hands, as if trying to fly. Demonstrating the proper proceedure to deal with these. news @ 11
Yep, when it doubt you tube it!
funny you guys mention that. as simple as the install is, i looked on youtube but couldn't find anything. the only videos i found were for the gt350 or pre 18 mustang gt which are different. i guess i should have filmed it and posted it on youtube..........a video of apparently what not to do lol
 
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Are you just going to leave it parked until you get the new tb, or are you going to do one of the suggested temporarily fixes while waiting for the tb to arrive, so that you can still drive it?
 
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Are you just going to leave it parked until you get the new tb, or are you going to do one of the suggested temporarily fixes while waiting for the tb to arrive, so that you can still drive it?
its parked for now. i don't need to drive it so theres no harm in letting it sit. although i should get a battery maintainer. was just looking at this one last night.........

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-10300-FP
 

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Quick

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its parked for now. i don't need to drive it so theres no harm in letting it sit. although i should get a battery maintainer. was just looking at this one last night.........

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-10300-FP
I run the ctek, not the ford branded one and it works well. They have a cigarette lighter adapter that you can use to plug into the car and not have to hook it up directly to the battery.

That one linked shows the lithium battery version, which is odd since the 5.0 uses lead acid.
 

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If you go BT get one that will do the job. Have 2, one purchased 1980, also have the ctek, brand name no (ford label), charges three battery types, for the Mustang.

Screen Shot 2021-08-18 at 1.53.25 PM.png


That 800ma charge rate, would take forever to top a battery... waste of $$$$......... good lawnmowers ...
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