Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

Ruiner46

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I had a quick question about the wiring end. I am installing my 6060 this week and I have bowler harness which is identical for the t56.

1. I do not recall any plug for a "skip shift" solenoid on my 2017 mt82, was that eliminated by then? I assume the tr6060 doesn't have that useless feature.

2. Sorry for my ignorance but I removed my MT82 a couple months back and I sold it to a local guy who needed one so I cant recall but is there only an OSS and Reverse connectors on the vehicle end? I had a buddy over and didn't want to take too much time up so we were trying to get it out quickly.

3. Specific to the diagram made above, BN-BU is just the 3rd wire on the OSS needing a new chassis ground right? It says in their manual the signal ground can just be capped and not used. Any reason you couldnt just run the bowler unit ground wire and this BN-BU unit together and ground them as a single wire?

Thanks
I'll take a stab at this although I have not used the Bowler harness.

1 - Never seen a skip shift solenoid

2 - All I remember is the OSS and reverse

3 - For the ground wires, I think the reason for what they ask for is to have a dedicated ground for the Bowler unit. Since the Bowler unit only has one ground wire, it is the return for both the signals and the power to the unit. The most important thing is that you do NOT connect black to BN-BU without also connecting it to chassis ground. This would make all the electrical current that is powering the Bowler unit return through the BN-BU wire and then through the PCM. The BN-BU wire is just a signal reference, and is not meant to sink a bunch of current, and you could damage the PCM. The safest way to go is to give the Bowler unit a dedicated ground, and then ground the BN-BU wire somewhere else.
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tamadrummer1120

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I'll take a stab at this although I have not used the Bowler harness.

1 - Never seen a skip shift solenoid

2 - All I remember is the OSS and reverse

3 - For the ground wires, I think the reason for what they ask for is to have a dedicated ground for the Bowler unit. Since the Bowler unit only has one ground wire, it is the return for both the signals and the power to the unit. The most important thing is that you do NOT connect black to BN-BU without also connecting it to chassis ground. This would make all the electrical current that is powering the Bowler unit return through the BN-BU wire and then through the PCM. The BN-BU wire is just a signal reference, and is not meant to sink a bunch of current, and you could damage the PCM. The safest way to go is to give the Bowler unit a dedicated ground, and then ground the BN-BU wire somewhere else.
Thanks for the reply! Got the trans bolted to the engine last night so I was going to actually wire it this evening. So you think I need to send both the black wire from the Bowler unit and the BN-BU wire to separate chassis grounds? I mean a ground is a ground. I figured just wire them together and run a single wire to the engine bay within the same wiring loom that I am sending the signal 12 volt wire down to the trans in.

You are just stating to definitely not connect those two wires and not ground them, which I get because it goes back to the ECU itself.
 

Norm Peterson

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Thanks for the reply! Got the trans bolted to the engine last night so I was going to actually wire it this evening. So you think I need to send both the black wire from the Bowler unit and the BN-BU wire to separate chassis grounds? I mean a ground is a ground. I figured just wire them together and run a single wire to the engine bay within the same wiring loom that I am sending the signal 12 volt wire down to the trans in.
I'm not sure that's exactly the same thing as separately grounding the wires. If nothing else, you could be setting up a weak wire-to-wire path in parallel to the final connection to ground if there's any contact resistance at the ground connection or resistance in a single wire between the BN-BU/black connection and the actual ground.


Norm
 

tamadrummer1120

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I'm not sure that's exactly the same thing as separately grounding the wires. If nothing else, you could be setting up a weak wire-to-wire path in parallel to the final connection to ground if there's any contact resistance at the ground connection or resistance in a single wire between the BN-BU/black connection and the actual ground.


Norm
I guess thats true. Not much extra work to throw another wire in the loom. But they will hit the same ground (one of the stack ups in the engine bay).
 

aleccolin

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The only reliable way to run the Bowler harness is to provide it a dedicated power and ground. Using power off the PCM is very hit and miss, and that's straight from Bowler. Their instructions really should require a separate power and ground from the get go.
 

tamadrummer1120

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The only reliable way to run the Bowler harness is to provide it a dedicated power and ground. Using power off the PCM is very hit and miss, and that's straight from Bowler. Their instructions really should require a separate power and ground from the get go.
Oh I 100% was going to do dedicated power and ground. It was the ground on the original OSS connector that the diagram in question said to ground it whereas Bowler said to cap off.
 
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db252

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Just as a reference point, my wires are connected directly to the harness wires; no extensions or other paths. Yes, more than one way to skin the cat but as original poster, I have not had a single issue.
 

tamadrummer1120

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Thanks for all of the help guys. I got the wiring all done last night. Nothing like laying on your back on concrete soldering wires. Hoping maybe today or into tomorrow have the rest of the parts back on (driveshaft, shifter, exhaust, starter) and hoping everything drives fine.
 

J17GT

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UPS freight lost my magnum. Current status "Shipment recorded but cannot be found. Attempting to locate."

This is great!
 

aleccolin

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Would probably be best if the box didn't say TREMEC in huge letters on all sides, kinda draws attention and anybody with a smartphone can quickly figure out it's worth thousands.

Sorry about your luck, hopefully UPS "finds" it, but that might take some serious pressure from the sender.
 

J17GT

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The QA1 Carbon Fiber driveshaft I ordered with my Modern Driveline swap kit has an unknown ETA. Apparently QA1 can't make carbon fiber driveshafts right now as they are waiting on the bonding resin from 3M. 3M says maybe this fall or later.... UGH.

I really want to get this car on the road...I have everything but a driveshaft at this point. What other driveshafts have people had good luck with? I was wanting the QA1 as it appears to have the best reputation for being smooth. I don't want to deal with driveline vibrations if I can help it.

Let me know what you all have had good luck with. Thanks!
 

aleccolin

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An aluminum driveshaft isn't necessarily going to cause vibration, but it may be worth your while to try and find a local driveshaft shop that can build it and balance it to a gnats ass, instead of just buying one off the shelf and hoping for the best. Getting the right yoke for the rear might be an issue, but someone should be able to. It's also worth your time to match the trans output shaft angle to the pinion angle, which will probably require some sort of shimming of the trans mount.
 

J17GT

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An aluminum driveshaft isn't necessarily going to cause vibration, but it may be worth your while to try and find a local driveshaft shop that can build it and balance it to a gnats ass, instead of just buying one off the shelf and hoping for the best. Getting the right yoke for the rear might be an issue, but someone should be able to. It's also worth your time to match the trans output shaft angle to the pinion angle, which will probably require some sort of shimming of the trans mount.
Thanks. I may look local as well.
Did UPS find it?
Yep, it was delivered to someone in Southern California. Modern Driveline mixed up some shipping labels...but they quickly made it right and shipped me out another transmission from their stock.
 

J17GT

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The Magnum is finally in and I'm on the road. What is the shift quality typically like during the break-in? When the trans is cold, the gear changes don't seem as smooth as I'd like. Feels somewhat 'tight' when going into gear. It improves some when the trans gets some heat in it. 4th gear will actually nibble on occasion. I have 70 miles on it now, so it's still fresh and new.

Just curious on experiences you all have had. I'm also in that 'listen for every noise and find something wrong' mode since this is all new. :)
 
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