Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

[db252]

Good to hear on all counts. As far as jack stands, I get it and did it for more years than I can remember that way. Just have help if you can and DO NOT let any weight rest on the input shaft while installing the main body of the transmission. I’ve used a motorcycle jack more times than I can count for floor install of transmissions.

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[ponie1992]

Good to hear on all counts. As far as jack stands, I get it and did it for more years than I can remember that way. Just have help if you can and DO NOT let any weight rest on the input shaft while installing the main body of the transmission. I’ve used a motorcycle jack more times than I can count for floor install of transmissions.

I really do need a lift. I'm getting too old to be crawling around on the floor. Hopefully I'll get one some time in 2020. I'll be using a trans jack as well, so there shouldn't be any undue stress on the input.

 

[ckendri]

Is there a reason why you connected the return wire to ground?

More or less to keep from having any loose wires around. It’s not necessary, but seemed to be a good solution at the time of install.

 

[ponie1992]

More or less to keep from having any loose wires around. It’s not necessary, but seemed to be a good solution at the time of install.

Gotcha, thanks

 

[aleccolin]

I was finally able to read through the entire thread. Saw the diagrams posted... awesome!
I'm still wondering if you guys indexed your bellhousings. I've read it can be difficult due to the cutouts. Any input on this will be appreciated.

I got an index plate from Bowler to do mine, already have indicators and stands so might as well be thorough. That said, I'll be surprised if offset dowel pins are actually needed.

 

[ponie1992]

I got an index plate from Bowler to do mine, already have indicators and stands so might as well be thorough. That said, I'll be surprised if offset dowel pins are actually needed.

I checked the instructions that came with the transmission and Tremec states no indexing is needed with a factory installed engine. It states to index only if the engine has been changed. So, if transmission damage were to somehow occur due to misalignment, I would think Tremec would still warranty it. I was really surprised to see that, honestly. I'll most likely take a couple readings on mine due to curiosity. If I find it's way off, I'll index it.

 

[aleccolin]

Yeah pretty much if you have or can borrow an indicator and mag stand (not the flex arm brake rotor runout type) it's a no brainer to at least check it. Tolerance in concentricity is only about 5 or 6 thou IIRC which obviously isn't a lot.

 

[shogun32]

Tolerance in concentricity is only about 5 or 6 thou IIRC which obviously isn't a lot.

per https://www.bowlertransmissions.com/bellhousing-alignment-install-guide/ it's half that (unless you meant TIR). I wonder what the factory specs are and how they go about getting repeatable results. The procedure described would be utterly impractical in a production setting.

 

[aleccolin]

TIR, what you'd read after zeroing on the low. Over that you'd need offset dowels

 

[ponie1992]

Yeah pretty much if you have or can borrow an indicator and mag stand (not the flex arm brake rotor runout type) it's a no brainer to at least check it. Tolerance in concentricity is only about 5 or 6 thou IIRC which obviously isn't a lot.

I do have a dial indicator and mag stand. Still seems strange to me that the Tremec installation instructions don't call for this. And to be the most accurate, you'd have to remove the powder coating from all mating surfaces. I may do that anyway, because I doubt there is any way you can get the powder coat the exact thickness over all surfaces.

 

[aleccolin]

Tremec probably feel the likelihood of there being a failure due to out of tolerance alignment is low enough not to burden people with what could seem like a daunting extra step. The steel bellhousings have good QC, but I don't trust any weldment to be within a couple thou.

You could remove the powder coating from the bellhousing mounting face, but since the major concern is concentricity and not skew, I don't feel that's really necessary. They tell you to stone the face of the block probably because they know monkeys with prybars will fuck it up getting the old trans off.

If you're talking about indicating to the bellhousing ID and taking that powdercoating off, even that might be overkill because the variance in coating thickness would be measured in tenths or maybe microns. If you use the index plate from QT or Bowler it's bare metal so no issue there. The index plates just make it a lot easier, especially the Bowler plate because it has a lot larger ID than the QT plate.

 

[ponie1992]

Tremec probably feel the likelihood of there being a failure due to out of tolerance alignment is low enough not to burden people with what could seem like a daunting extra step. The steel bellhousings have good QC, but I don't trust any weldment to be within a couple thou.

You could remove the powder coating from the bellhousing mounting face, but since the major concern is concentricity and not skew, I don't feel that's really necessary. They tell you to stone the face of the block probably because they know monkeys with prybars will fuck it up getting the old trans off.

If you're talking about indicating to the bellhousing ID and taking that powdercoating off, even that might be overkill because the variance in coating thickness would be measured in tenths or maybe microns. If you use the index plate from QT or Bowler it's bare metal so no issue there. The index plates just make it a lot easier, especially the Bowler plate because it has a lot larger ID than the QT plate.

Yep, I watched that video too. I'm just wondering if the powder coat could be thicker on say one side of the mating surface of the bell to the block. But honestly, idk how thick powder coating is. I know others have just bolted this swap together and have had no issues. I'm a maintenance technician for Michelin and we've had fits and tolerances drilled into our heads, so it's hard to ignore. I will most likely do a few checks just to see if it's off enough that it would always bother me knowing that. If so, I'll take the extra time to get it right.

 

[Wolverine]

I just finished dial indicating my QuickTime RM-8080 bellhousing to my 2019 Coyote engine. With straight dowels, it was 0.0135” off to the 7:30 position. I purchased 0.007” offset dowels and faced their high-side towards the 1:30 position, and that brought my TIR down to 0.006 or so...which, when divided by two, gives me 0.003”. Well within the 0.005” spec that Tremec suggests. The closer you can get this number to perfect, the smoother your shifts will be, and the better longevity for all these parts working together. No strain on the input shaft!

It took me a week or more to get things dialed in perfect, but it’s done now. I also used the Bowler dial-indicator plate shown above, and HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT. Makes this job so much easier it’s not even funny.

My Tilton ST-246 clutch and flywheel are installed too. Working on my Tilton 6000-Series hydraulic release bearing now, and once that is solved I’ll bolt my T56 Magnum to the bellhousing.

**Remember: even though I’m using a 2019 Mustang engine, it’s going into a Factory Five racecar so my bellhousing is different, and my transmission is the Magnum instead of the XL most of you are using.**

 

[aleccolin]

Great update, good to know it's worthwhile to index the bellhousing, otherwise I'd feel really dumb spending on the Bowler plate without needing it. And also a new Noga indicator stand...

Did you use the RM-140 (Quicktime) dowel pins? From what I see the Mod motor pins are only available in 7, 14, and 21 thou offsets.

What clutch MC are you using? Based on talking with Tilton, the OE mustang MC shouldn't overtravel the Tilton HRB so a pedal stop isn't necessary, but since you're building an FFR you may be using a different MC or maybe a whole Tilton pedal setup.

What FF car are you building BTW, and do you have a build thread on the FF forum?

 

[ponie1992]

@db252 what shifter boot seal are you using? As far as I can tell, S550's didn't come with that one and I need something to seal the opening.

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