Install Steeda Springs and Sway Bars

[shuangv6]

I've recently purchased the Steeda Progressive springs and sway bar kit. I've been quoted $500 - $900 for the installation. However after watching the install videos by cj pony parts, I feel like I could probably do the install myself and spend the ~$500 instead on the proper tools.

Any thoughts or suggestions from people who have done their own installation before?

Thanks!

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[plc268]

I've recently purchased the Steeda Progressive springs and sway bar kit. I've been quoted $500 - $900 for the installation. However after watching the install videos by cj pony parts, I feel like I could probably do the install myself and spend the ~$500 instead on the proper tools.

Any thoughts or suggestions from people who have done their own installation before?

Thanks!

It's not hard, just take your time. The first corner you do, front and back, will take the longest, and then when you tackle the other side, it'll take a quarter of the time.

What do you already have in terms of tools? Are you starting from scratch, or do you already have a lot of the basics?

 

[terryz]

Do it, you can get all the tools, even an impact gun, for less than $500.

Plus you learn how to do it, so when you want to change to something else or even go back to stock, you won't have to spend $$$ again.

 

[SVT-DADDY]

It's checkers not chess.

However it's not quite as easy as it looks in the video. In particular my rear springs didn't want to leave the nest. In the end I just needed to be a little more aggressive with the pry bar then the news ones slid right in.

I'd get a good spring compressor, torque wrench, and impact gun. I think Autozone will rent them if needed.

One tip on the front strut bolts....they are splined. So remove the nut then tap them out. I actually loosened the nut to the end of the bolt and tapped it with a hammer.
Bigger target and no risk of screwing up the threads.

 

[shuangv6]

What do you already have in terms of tools? Are you starting from scratch, or do you already have a lot of the basics?

I'm starting from scratch but i purchased the most base mustang I could find so that I could do some wrenching so I was planning on getting the tools eventually.

I think I'm set on doing the install myself. Any recommendations for tools?

 

[SVT-DADDY]

I'm starting from scratch but i purchased the most base mustang I could find so that I could do some wrenching so I was planning on getting the tools eventually.

I think I'm set on doing the install myself. Any recommendations for tools?

I believe they break it down in the CJ Pony parts video pretty well.

 

[Nagare]

I'd appreciate some tool recommendations too. I know you all are saying impact gun and the like, but that doesn't specify any torque rating or size information and those are (apparently) important parts to be aware of.

I'm hoping to do my springs/shocks/struts install myself as well if possible and have basically nothing in the way of tools.

 

[plc268]

My recommendation: Harbor Freight. Find coupons here: http://www.hfqpdb.com/
Print the coupons or show them on your phone. Look up everything and have a plan on what you're going to buy before you go to HF.

A lot of people bash them, but you just gotta be smart with what you buy.

You'll want a way to lift the car and support it. So a floor jack and jack stands should be the first thing you buy.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-61282.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-steel-jack-stands-61196.html (<-- get two sets, total of 4 jack stands)

Then get a "mechanic's tool set" Generally is a case of a bunch of sockets, ratchets and a bunch of other stuff you need. You don't necessarily need to get this at HF. Craftsman has a nice set, and you could pick one up at lowes or home depot as well.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-tool-sets/225-pc-mechanics-tool-set-62664.html

Cheap torque wrench. Not the best in the world, but good enough for lug nuts and suspension stuff. Ideally you'll want one that does up to 250 lb-ft, but they cost more. Tekton makes a decent one (get it off amazon)

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-62431.html

Breaker bar. Use this to loosen tight fasteners.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-67933.html

4lb hammer for removing those strut to knuckle bolts. Pick up a dead blow hammer as well, while you're at it. They're cheap.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-lb-hardwood-engineers-hammer-61252.html

That's the basics. You can rent spring compressors, or just buy a clamshell spring compressor that way you have it for future work. An impact wrench would be nice, but they're a significant investment. Corded impact wrenches are cheap, but weak. Air powered are nice, relatively cheap, but you need to invest in an air setup. Battery powered is even better, IMO, but expensive.

 

[SVT-DADDY]

I have already done this job and own all the tools but props for this detailed helpful post!

My recommendation: Harbor Freight. Find coupons here: http://www.hfqpdb.com/
Print the coupons or show them on your phone. Look up everything and have a plan on what you're going to buy before you go to HF.

A lot of people bash them, but you just gotta be smart with what you buy.

You'll want a way to lift the car and support it. So a floor jack and jack stands should be the first thing you buy.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-61282.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-steel-jack-stands-61196.html (<-- get two sets, total of 4 jack stands)

Then get a "mechanic's tool set" Generally is a case of a bunch of sockets, ratchets and a bunch of other stuff you need. You don't necessarily need to get this at HF. Craftsman has a nice set, and you could pick one up at lowes or home depot as well.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-tool-sets/225-pc-mechanics-tool-set-62664.html

Cheap torque wrench. Not the best in the world, but good enough for lug nuts and suspension stuff. Ideally you'll want one that does up to 250 lb-ft, but they cost more. Tekton makes a decent one (get it off amazon)

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-62431.html

Breaker bar. Use this to loosen tight fasteners.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-67933.html

4lb hammer for removing those strut to knuckle bolts. Pick up a dead blow hammer as well, while you're at it. They're cheap.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-lb-hardwood-engineers-hammer-61252.html

That's the basics. You can rent spring compressors, or just buy a clamshell spring compressor that way you have it for future work. An impact wrench would be nice, but they're a significant investment. Corded impact wrenches are cheap, but weak. Air powered are nice, relatively cheap, but you need to invest in an air setup. Battery powered is even better, IMO, but expensive.

 

[JKL1031]

no a friggin 8lb hammer for those damn front shock bolts. makes no d@#$M sense Ford!

i ended up cramming a floor jack between the body shell and RR upper link and cranking it to get the rear spring out.

Using the two piece compressor was a challenge since the spring is so narrow with the wide spring seat and if u dont have a nice impact gun to drive those springs clamps then forget about it. go to a close shop to have it removed or rent/buy a bigger one piece compressor.

Wasnt a good weekend for me, but the results were worth it I believe.

 

[ahl395]

It's not too hard of a job, but make sure you have a good, and correct kind of spring compressor.

This was my biggest problem during my install. The one I rented from Autozone didn't work or line up at all. I ended up buying a "single action" spring compressor from Harbor Freight which did get the job done, but still did not line up the best and was a bit sketchy.

Just remember to be careful and always use the safety locks when compressing a spring. Make sure it compresses evenly, etc. There is enough tension in that spring when compressed that it can take your face off if it pops out of the compressor or something goes wrong. Don't be afraid of the job, but use caution. You will need an impact wrench for the front springs also.

A good alternative as mentioned above is to get the shock/spring assembly out and bring that to a shop for them to change the spring. This way you still save lots of labor and tools cost, but don't have to do the hardest and most dangerous part of the job. This is what I would have done myself if I didn't do the job on a Sunday, lol. I used to be an auto mechanic and the small DIY spring compressors have always been unsettling to me, a real spring compressor in a shop is much better.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Just to echo what ahl395 said; I agree 100%.

It took me almost two weeks to get the front springs/struts done (I hear the snickering guys...knock it off ;) )

I don't like the two-piece traditional spring compressor rods b/c they are dangerous. So I bought a cheap clamshell type compressor (like you see in the CJPP videos...except a cheap knockoff). Mistake. The screw stripped out after one spring, even though I oiled it. Then I bought the one in the CJPP videos but that took a week to arrive.

Then, I had trouble with the adjustable camber plates, but that was a combination of poor instructions and my inexperience. But if you're not using the adjustable camber plates, this won't apply to you.

Still, as stated, you WILL need an impact wrench for the spring compressor. Can you use a normal ratchet? Sure. But it's the difference between framing a house with a nail gun vs. a traditional hammer or cutting the grass with a gas lawn mower vs. a push mower.

If I were you (you don't have the right tools ATM), I'd take out the strut assemblies and bring them somewhere to have them swapped out. I had all the tools already, minus the spring compressor and I still sorta wish I had done that.

 

[JKL1031]

i kept that thing horizontal pointed away from anything and drove the clamps down evenly. I only removed one side with the sketchy two piece compressor from autozone and took the other side to a shop. the new spring were of course shorter and easier.

If you oil a thread, you reduce thread friction an increase tension load on the bolt.

 

[plc268]

I don't like the two-piece traditional spring compressor rods b/c they are dangerous. So I bought a cheap clamshell type compressor (like you see in the CJPP videos...except a cheap knockoff). Mistake. The screw stripped out after one spring, even though I oiled it. Then I bought the one in the CJPP videos but that took a week to arrive.

Then, I had trouble with the adjustable camber plates, but that was a combination of poor instructions and my inexperience. But if you're not using the adjustable camber plates, this won't apply to you.

Still, as stated, you WILL need an impact wrench for the spring compressor. Can you use a normal ratchet? Sure. But it's the difference between framing a house with a nail gun vs. a traditional hammer or cutting the grass with a gas lawn mower vs. a push mower.

If I were you (you don't have the right tools ATM), I'd take out the strut assemblies and bring them somewhere to have them swapped out. I had all the tools already, minus the spring compressor and I still sorta wish I had done that.

With that Harbor Freight compressor, you really need anti-sieze on the threads and avoid using an impact. I don't know the grade of steel used on the bolt, but I'm sure it's low quality. It's perfectly usable with anti-sieze and hand tools.

And hand tools on a spring compressor works fine. It just takes longer, that's all.

That said, if you can swing it, buy the one that's in the CJPP videos. I did, and it's great. And yes, I do use an impact on it, but that's because it can withstand it.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6494-Clamshell-Spring-Compressor/dp/B0002SRHU6

You can get these used for much cheaper, btw.

Also, if you're using hand tools, you may want a strut nut socket to prevent the shock absorber shaft from spinning. I don't remember the size needed off the top of my head, but they look like this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/strut-nut-socket-22mm/003046sch01a-04/

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Have no fear on the install; buy the tools. The only change to CJPP's install video deals with the rear subframe: completely remove the two small bolts holding the ~8" metal brace and remove the brace completely. Leaving it allows the entire subframe to rest on it and makes removing the rear springs more difficult than it needs to be.

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