If you want more camber and cut your strut towers

[kz]

Isn't there an aftermarket solution for control arms with camber adjustment?

Rear - yes, front - no.

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[dem00n]

Rear - yes, front - no.

https://www.splparts.com/products/gt350-mustang-front-lower-control-arms.html
?

 

[kz]

https://www.splparts.com/products/gt350-mustang-front-lower-control-arms.html
?

Never have seen these before - stand corrected then.

 

[drummerboy]

I don't remember for sure, but I seem to remember reading a honeybadger post that the available adjustable FLCA's available were less than ideal for some reason.

 

[lightrules]

Never have seen these before - stand corrected then.

yeah very interesting. @honeybadger any comments on these?

 

[honeybadger]

......interesting. Doesn't look like SPL is a vendor on here. Bummer, would if they could answer some questions. I'm struggling how this doesn't completely mess with the geometry?

A camber plate/concentric bolt just tilts the tire at a pivot point. However, this would appear to push the knuckle from the bottom - but that will physically move the entire knuckle either further or closer to the frame. Additionally, since there's a second control arm behind this one, I'd assume the knuckle has to pivot around that (pushing outwards would push the knuckle back and tightening would pull it forward). But maybe I'm not thinking about it right.

Either way, I don't think they're a replacement for camber plates/bolts.They're probably more target for folks with much more custom suspension components.

@Epiphany @JAJ @oldbmwfan - any of you gents have thoughts?

https://www.splparts.com/products/gt350-mustang-front-lower-control-arms.html

 

[honeybadger]

which is on a threaded rod (nee bump-steer kit) so both can be adjusted in tandem, no? Inconvenient to adjust the latter for sure. @BmacIL might have seen this before.

You're thinking of the steering tie rod. The rear control arms are completely solid with no adjustment. At least mine are.

 

[honeybadger]

Okay, I think I got my answer. I found on the Vorshlag site that SPL also makes the second set of arms (Is this what you meant @shogun32 ?). With both, you should be fine. But that's a rough price tag.

https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...es-front-lower-control-arms-s550-ford-mustang

https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...tanium-series-front-tension-rods-s550-mustang

 

[shogun32]

(Is this what you meant @shogun32 ?).

you're too kind. I was indeed referencing the wrong rod.

With both, you should be fine. But that's a rough price tag.

Yowza is right! $650 for the set of 4 would be FAR more rational because I can't see installing one without the other.

 

[Epiphany]

A camber plate/concentric bolt just tilts the tire at a pivot point. However, this would appear to push the knuckle from the bottom - but that will physically move the entire knuckle either further or closer to the frame. Additionally, since there's a second control arm behind this one, I'd assume the knuckle has to pivot around that (pushing outwards would push the knuckle back and tightening would pull it forward). But maybe I'm not thinking about it right.

@Epiphany @JAJ @oldbmwfan - any of you gents have thoughts?

In theory, I'm a huge fan of this hardware in terms of adjustment. You're right though as if one were to leave the strut top alone and move the knuckle outboard to gain more negative camber, you'd be increasing track width - however minute it may be. It would be really nice if you could simply make all your adjustments at the bottom and not have to deal with the strut top at all.

Hardware-wise, I love FK's rod ends and these arms are using their best. The only thing I wonder about is impact harshness. The factory S550 uses a large diameter rubber bushing at the body end of the tension rod. A rod end used here, even one of the best quality, is likely to transmit some unwanted resonance into the body or chassis. How much? I think you'd have to experience it for yourself. That said, a rod end at that juncture should bode well for consistency in terms of the link's necessary arc of travel at the knuckle end.

I also have no issue with jam nuts but they went all in against them here. If the method they chose works without issue then great.

 

[oldbmwfan]

Nothing to add on top of that ^^^ excellent response, other than the benefit of the bearing mount on the inboard end of the arm is absolutely no binding throughout the suspension's range of travel, which means no unplanned changes in spring and damper curves. For a street car, that's a negligible benefit and the NVH increase is likely not worth it. Solid suspension mounts are pretty harsh.

 

[pilotgore]

So did you buy the package of 8? Wanna mail me two of them? Getting ready to do this soon... The Steeda strut tower cutting tool is already sitting on my workbench.

Wanna rent/sell me the tool when you’re done with it?

 

[THX 138]

Wanna rent/sell me the tool when you’re done with it?

Sure, no problem. It will be a few weeks at least before I plan to cut my strut tower holes. (I'm using the excuse that it's still too cold out, while the real reason is that I just need to get up the courage to do it!) I'll PM you when I'm done with it. I have a track weekend at Putnam coming up in April, so one way or another, I'll have it done by then.

 

[pilotgore]

Sure, no problem. It will be a few weeks at least before I plan to cut my strut tower holes. (I'm using the excuse that it's still too cold out, while the real reason is that I just need to get up the courage to do it!) I'll PM you when I'm done with it. I have a track weekend at Putnam coming up in April, so one way or another, I'll have it done by then.

Sweet, thanks! No rush.

If It’s April 10-11 at putnam then I’ll plan to see you there!

 

[THX 138]

Sweet, thanks! No rush.

If It’s April 10-11 at putnam then I’ll plan to see you there!

No, it's the 23-25 with the Porsche club. I have a conflict with the 10/10ths event.

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