I DON'T have the tick but I have the 2K Rattle

Discussion in 'Issues, Repairs, Warranty, TSB, Recalls' started by ATTFighter, Jan 21, 2019.

  1. NIXPP2

    NIXPP2 Well-Known Member

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    I was just thinking this today. Seems like the range for the noise is so specific, when you are just tipping in to the throttle....
     
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  2. 1bad66

    1bad66 Well-Known Member

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    One thing to remember about that is you are putting the rotating assembly in an unloaded condition when you tip in the throttle from idle or decel to accel. It's basically a coast condition, when the engine has no load on it, which is usually when a bottom end rattle would occur (like a rod and or rod bearing for instance). I've heard many engines over the years exhibit very similar symptoms w/ bad rod bearings, Toyota 22re and SBF or two to name a couple...
     
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  3. Jetnoise

    Jetnoise Well-Known Member

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    #123 Jetnoise, Feb 26, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2019
    So when does the PI hand the baton to DI? Any specific rpm range or load?
    Or the CMCV start opening or closing? Any rpm range
    Then there is the variable timing ....what rpm or load is timing pulled out?
    From my personal experience the rattle isn't present coasting at all. Nor on decel.
    Only shows it's face on tip in. But maybe your personal car is different than what I've experienced.
    The symptoms I've seen remind me of an old car that knocks on lower than ideal fuel.
    Who knows
     
  4. 1bad66

    1bad66 Well-Known Member

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    Tip in is exactly when my does it, however if you put any load on the engine past that tip it’s gone. Letting off the throttle in gear is decel, no matter the speed/gear/rpm. When you relieve that decel condition by ‘tipping in’ to the throttle you are basically free-wheeling the drivetrain for whatever time you can keep it there..all of which occurs just before the accel load is applied, no matter how small that may be. We are experiencing the same exact condition at the same times I assure you.
     
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  5. Jetnoise

    Jetnoise Well-Known Member

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    So a rod or rod bearing only shows it's face in those conditions?
     
  6. 1bad66

    1bad66 Well-Known Member

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    Not only then but is fairly typical. Think about it this way...when the rotating assembly is loaded in either direction (accel or decel) the load takes up any ‘slack’ per say so it can’t rattle. Now if clearances are really excessive it can rattle at other times. Imaging towing a car with a solid bar slid in to your truck’s trailer hitch receiver. If you are accelerating or decelerating that bar is loaded and cannot rattle or move around in the receiver, however as soon as you relieve that load it’ll to go thru a neutral or unloaded transition. When unloaded that bar can rattle in the hitch.....
     
  7. Jetnoise

    Jetnoise Well-Known Member

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    I hear what you are saying. I just don't hear the rattle in an unloaded position or a just unloaded situation.
    It's more when load is being applied. Do you think higher RPM ...loaded or unloading has the same effect on the rattle?
     
  8. GT Pony

    GT Pony Well-Known Member

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    It could also be piston slap that only occurs under certain light loads at certain engine RPM.
     
  9. 1bad66

    1bad66 Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely could be, and to be clear a rod and/or rod bearing wasn’t my only concern. It’s also reminiscent of a wrist pin out of spec as well..
     
  10. Jetnoise

    Jetnoise Well-Known Member

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    So as of now the common belief/thought is rod bearings going fubar....causing the slug to scuff up the walls or are they independent of each other.
    so my experience today...cold no rattle, operating temp...rattle, rattle on command. Rattle shows itself in first 3 gears but non above that.....hmmmm
    Let it heat soak.... rattle at A stand still in the 1800 range, drove it no rattle in anything over 3rd gear. Latter in the day.... no rattle to speak of.
    It's got a mind of it's own
     
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  11. NIXPP2

    NIXPP2 Well-Known Member

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    In an effort to quiet the rattle since we can't seem to solve it, I unhooked the sound tube from the intake and called the intake side/plugged the tube. I can't believe how much it quieted the cabin and especially the rattle within the cabin. It's quiet livable. If you haven't done the delete it block off, I would suggest you try it immediately for the sake of your sanity while we all try to figure this out.
     
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  12. gmupatriot

    gmupatriot Well-Known Member

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    I have put off taking out the sound tube for too long. At idle, I hear this diesel engine kinda sound if that makes sense. Its not really audible while sitting on the passenger side so this makes sense that removing the sound tube and plugging the hole in the firewall quiets down the sound pumped into the car especially for the driver. Thanks for confirming that this helps!
     
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  13. EVL-S550

    EVL-S550 Well-Known Member

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    Took mine in today for a quick chat with the Foreman at my dealership since I had some squeaking at low speed which ended up just being a dust shield behind the rotors.

    Had him listen for the valve clatter/rattle @ 2k. He heard it when I dropped revs but said it was coming from my exhaust he thought . Threw it up in the air and hooked a stethoscope to it. Couldn't find anything. Then handed me the Typewriter Tick SSM...

    He said also when it comes to engine replacements, he would do them all day but it's not up to him, it's Ford's call. Said he submits the VIN and Ford let's them know if it's in range and then authorizes based on that. That was a weird comment IMO. That tells me there might be a range of VIN's that are known to have bad engines? He then told me to stay off the issues thread and send the shit out of it, if anything weird pops up bring her back in.

    Here is the print out of the SSM. Wording looks different than the threads before. Includes rattle up to 1700 RPM? He pulled this right out of Oasis with me standing in the bay. IMG_20190304_133455.jpg
     
  14. GT Pony

    GT Pony Well-Known Member

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    It does sound like there could be a VIN range of engines that Ford knows are bad.

    Looks like the same wording to me. The SSM number looks different though - strange.

     
  15. EVL-S550

    EVL-S550 Well-Known Member

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    That is strange. Maybe they have been updating it? The original one that I saw in here didn't mention the 1700 RPM piece. I also find the 1700 RPM stuff weird because the tick was usually at idle, while the rattle was around 2k for throttle tip in.
     
  16. Lo Pony

    Lo Pony Well-Known Member

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    #136 Lo Pony, Mar 15, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2019
    NIXPP2, I like the sound tube idea. I was thinking about that the other day and wondered if anyone had tried it. I agree that we should try.

    Mine has the rattle in gear, but not in neutral. Figure that one out. It’s pretty loud. Sounds like a diesel. Over a very narrow RPM range. I thought I saw another poster up there who said his was the same, with the no rattling neutral thing. That’s exactly when you would expect it to be worst! Car doesn’t use oil, and runs like a scalded dog. Engine sounds great all the way to 7700 RPM, pulls hard, thus I am having a very hard time convincing myself that there’s anything wrong with it. Completely stock with flex E 85 tune from LMS. Major major difference versus stock tune I can verify that. Car is so strong it’s makes my 2016 with a manual trans anemic by comparison.

    Running Valvoline 5W 20 synthetic, one can of Ceratec. Tempted to dump another can in but I think I’ll try disconnecting the sound tube first.
     
  17. choate

    choate Well-Known Member

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    I don’t understand introducing a foreign substance into your engine to mask a noise that’s not causing a problem. Why not run gear oil 85w175. No “ticks, knocks, typewriter noises, BBQ ignitor, rattles, piston slap, wrist pin failures, rod knock, wrong bearing clearance tolerances etc”. You guys should be Ford mechanics. All of our engines need to be replaced bc of the mustang 6G forum diagnosis
     
  18. choate

    choate Well-Known Member

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    Btw my car has the sound tube deleted. It still has the 2k rpm rattle. 2018gt. It’s the normal sound of the engine IMO. It does have an audible noise for sure. But no problems here besides a noise and NO WAY im putting anything foreign into my engine. In fact I’m sure Ford wouldn’t very much like that if your engine was bad. Oh you put ceretec in it?
     
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  19. Lo Pony

    Lo Pony Well-Known Member

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    #139 Lo Pony, Mar 15, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2019
    NIXPP2, You’re right, I blocked the sound tube and the rattling is much quieter. I was surprised at how much engine noise comes through that tube into the cabin! 80 to 90% of what we are hearing, in many cases, is just amplified mechanical noise coming back up through the intake. The fact that on my car it occurs on very initial tip-in and not in neutral seems to suggest it is innocuous. I’ll drive it for a few days and see if I miss the sound of the engine, and if so, I’ll reconnect.

    In summary, I don’t believe there’s anything wrong with this car, and it sounds exactly like many others on this forum. This engine is as quiet as my 2016 engine was, and it had a little bit of rattle. Of course it also had a sound tube.

    Now the typewriter ticking may be a different story ... I don’t have that - yet
     
  20. choate

    choate Well-Known Member

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    Sorry but I can’t take anybody serious who uses the word “innocuous”
     
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