I DON'T have the tick but I have the 2K Rattle

[Lo Pony]

tuning an engine that already has a slight rattle, amplifies the rattle!!! it's louder. ... moar horsepower!!

I like it! The more rattles and knocks, the more power! It’s looser, those ponies are just trying to get out. Lol

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[bootlegger]

I don’t understand introducing a foreign substance into your engine to mask a noise that’s not causing a problem. Why not run gear oil 85w175. No “ticks, knocks, typewriter noises, BBQ ignitor, rattles, piston slap, wrist pin failures, rod knock, wrong bearing clearance tolerances etc”. You guys should be Ford mechanics. All of our engines need to be replaced bc of the mustang 6G forum diagnosis

Gear oil is not certified for use in the engine. I am a development engineer for engine components that go into Ford vehicles. Don't worry about what I do with my car.

FYI, Ford has never made any statement on the rattle, only on the tick.

 

[bootlegger]

Btw my car has the sound tube deleted. It still has the 2k rpm rattle. 2018gt. It’s the normal sound of the engine IMO. It does have an audible noise for sure. But no problems here besides a noise and NO WAY im putting anything foreign into my engine. In fact I’m sure Ford wouldn’t very much like that if your engine was bad. Oh you put ceretec in it?

"Foreign"
This word is silly to use when talking about an engine. You put oil in it once a year. Do you think you are dumping in pure oil with nothing else? Ceratec is just an extra additive pack on top of the dozen additives you introduce at every oil change. If your engine failed even after using ceratec, Ford would need to prove that was the cause. The additive in that product has been used for decades, and is still currently used in a few commercial oil products, without issues. The only problems reported are due to plug fouling and cat deactivation when you are burning excessive amounts of oil.

 

[itguy08]

Spent some time driving the Mustang this past week as it was cold but not snowy and she looked sad sitting in the garage.... I think it's fuel related. I've got the 2k rattle and noticed that it's there when it's cold (high 30's/40's) and the car has been sitting.
It's there as soon as you start it up and while it's at "high idle", say in a larking lot. High idle for me seems to be about 1100 or so. It won't stop for a couple minutes until the idle settles down to the usual 650-700.
Even after the car is warm (middle of the gauge, head at 180 or so) it will do it. The interesting thing is it really doesn't change with engine load. My new commute has a few back hilly roads. If you hold RPM during the rattle (push your foot to the right into the trans tunnel), it will do it up and down. Hold it steady and e-brake it and it will rattle till it gets out of the RPM range.
If it's cold and you tap the gas you can get it to do it as soon as your foot hits the gas. Even standing still.

I've been digging on this as I think for those of us without oil consumption and engine damage it's the fuel system. Unfortunately there's not much about Ford's PI/DI system. I did stumble on this article: https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a...-engines-have-both-port-and-direct-injection/

It states Ford uses PI at idle and "low load/RPM" and then blends in DI. So I'm wondering if Ford is using DI for cold starts as it's a much more precise fuel mixture and that can help with cold emissions without tons of fuel to get the cats hot quick Once things warm up, we're hearing the HPFP or injectors blending in and making a racket. It would make sense for the load at, say 2nd-4th gear to he higher and they would start mixing in DI at that point. Especially since it happens when you transition from a coast to an acceleration event (higher RPM and load).

I know I noticed it a lot less at my previous job where I was out of the parking lot and onto a 45mph roadway within 2 minutes. At my new job there's a lot of low RPM parking lot/traffic and I notice it a lot more.

It's a shame that Ford has been silent and that there isn't more information out about the noise. I still think there are some that do have bad engines and that's the classic engine noise. Then there are those of us who have the noise but no engine issues. And, IMHO it's easy to "drive around" and never hear it.

 

[EVL-S550]

Drove mine a good distance to the office this morning and back. I'm almost 100% certain it's driveline. If I keep my hand on the shifter or pinch the bushing under the boot, it quiets it or eliminates it completely.

 

[CAL Captain]

Drove mine a good distance to the office this morning and back. I'm almost 100% certain it's driveline. If I keep my hand on the shifter or pinch the bushing under the boot, it quiets it or eliminates it completely.

My mechanic says the same thing.

 

[Jetnoise]

Auto or manual?

 

[EVL-S550]

Auto or manual?

Manual

 

[Jetnoise]

You have a different rattle than others

 

[itguy08]

I've got a manual and notice the noises can be similar when you rest your hand or grab the shifter. I'm not sure it's driveline as mine will make it on cold high idle with the clutch in or out and there's not much in the driveline at a stop with the clutch in. Maybe the flywheel?

I'm still thinking HPFP. Curious minds wonder what would happen if the connector were pulled and made the engine run on Port Injection only.

 

[Fastfwd]

2019 GT

Oh man, I was actually avoiding this forum because I didn't want to be consumed with negative information about these Mustangs. I did not even know there was a '2K Rattle' that others have been experiencing. I just got done describing this in a thread about oil level on the dipstick elsewhere on here.

I'll go through and read the entire thread, but my experience in summary - when I finally added oil past the middle of the dipstick (which is where it was when I got the car and where my 3k oil change with 10 quarts landed it once again).... My '2k Rattle' diminished tremendously. Now, maybe it's temporary as others have described IDK.

I had been reluctant to top my oil off to the upper hole or 'maximum' capacity as described in the owner's manual mostly because I was unsure how much expansion to expect with 10 quarts of oil when the weather got hot here. The owner's manual also very specifically states to not add oil if the oil level is between the holes lending to caution to run it too close to the maximum and 'overfill it'.

I just got back from a big trip. Checked the oil before I left with 1,500 miles on the oil change and it was in the middle. During the trip my '2k Rattle' became worrisome to me. I thought it might be one of the 'normal' noises to be expected or an exhaust rattle, etc. I checked the oil level again during my trip and decided to add oil and brought the hot level up to the 'maximum' capacity and the engine sounds so much more content now.

It makes me upset that I just didn't run it a half quart fuller the entire time, but that would technically have been against what the owner's manual says at least for those initial 3k miles and it would mean the total capacity would have been probably 10.5 quarts not 10 for the oil change which again gave me pause to not 'overfill' it after putting in the stated capacity.

 

[GT Pony]

Not disputing your observations, but I can't see why adding half a quart of oil to bring the oil level from 1/2 way between add and full to the 100% full hole would make any difference in engine lubrication when the sump holds 10 quarts. Wonder if anyone else has observed this same phenomenon?

 

[1bad66]

I can tell you after Ford changed my oil at 4k miles (they're doing an oil consumption test) the 2k rattle is much more prevalent. Yes it has 10 qts in it and the factory 5w20 was used.

 

[Lo Pony]

I’m definitely going with 5W-30 on my next oil change. 5W 20 is like water anyway, and I take it to heart when they say change to a heavier oil for a track event.

 

[Fastfwd]

Not disputing your observations, but I can't see why adding half a quart of oil to bring the oil level from 1/2 way between add and full to the 100% full hole would make any difference in engine lubrication when the sump holds 10 quarts. Wonder if anyone else has observed this same phenomenon?

I actually first looked for what others were doing with their oil level on here once I returned from my trip before stumbling upon this thread. I had no idea there was a '2k Rattle' being reported. You should read all of what I described - fits these descriptions to a T. I have just been driving it like it is and not stressing too much over what might seem like a slightly odd sound.

I'm not sure it has 'solved' the issue that apparently others have been experiencing, but mine seemed to be greatly diminished after bringing it up to 'maximum hot.' I was stressing over it because I felt like it was something so simple that might have prevented a problem down the road with an engine failure possibly if these sounds were related to the scoring of the cylinders.

It caused me to take issue with how the Owner's Manual dictates 'Do Not Add Oil' when between the holes until it reaches the bottom hole. How I took ownership with it in the middle between the holes and how when I changed oil at 3k miles it landed there again - which is not what I've seen with other vehicles in my experience. If a vehicle states that the capacity is a certain amount I have always seen it actually hold less at the oil change and you just suspect there is still some in there that didn't drain out, etc. In this case I suspect the actual 'maximum' hot capacity is much more like 10.5 quarts.

I definitely understand that regardless - it shouldn't make any difference. If the Owner's Manual says it's 'acceptable' to run the engine between the holes it certainly should be. That would be an unreasonably thin margin of error in oil level if it caused any damage.

I also seem to gather that these engines are failing or being replaced for serious damage at an alarming rate and for sure something isn't right. It just seems reasonable to me to believe that 'scoring' of cylinders might occur if there has been oil deprivation, but dude, I am absolutely not a mechanic. Does the 'Track Use' instruction to keep it at maximum hot equate to pulling X.x G's out on the street introducing some kind of oil deprivation if the oil level is not at 'maximum hot'? I don't know, but after taking it more seriously as a potential cause because of this '2K Rattle' it makes me wonder.

I don't know that it 'fixed' anything. I can still hear it trying to want to rattle after I got home and I actually only then really watched the RPM to see the range of where it wanted to do it. Between like 1,500/1,700 - 2,500 RPM. When it really became much more noticeable during my trip would have been the first that the air-conditioner might have been running hard too btw. It was in the 80s for the first time of driving the car. Same experience as others. During a change of light load from gear to gear shift or at 'tip in' as I believe described. I've got an automatic, however. Same thing though - between 1,2 and 2,3 I believe, but don't quote me on that. I'd love to believe it was that piped in engine noise, but I'm afraid that's wishful thinking.

Some of you guys having the problem might just try to carefully bring your oil level up to the maximum hot level. I would just bring it up to the top of the hash marks if it isn't already and see if it makes any difference for you. Mine seemed to be so much more content with that extra half quart that I felt both relieved and upset that I didn't try to run it at maximum the entire time and possibly save any damage.

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