I didn't know the 9-Speaker could sound this good...

geep81

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Rattles in the doors?? Could this be another symptom of pandemic specials?
No, it's a symptom of Ford. My '19 was solid as a mouse for the 10 months I had it, my '20 rattled like crazy all over from day 1.

Passenger seat cooled seat element, passenger seat floor mount, defroster trim, side curtain airbag harness on both sides, dash gauge trim pieces, and some rattle developed in the rear quarter panel area that required me to pull everything apart to stop. There are definitely a few I have forgotten.

Both special orders, no-one else did any funny business to them before I got em.

 

Evolvd

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Do you have any pictures of your dynamat in the doors? Where did you apply? I am getting ready to resume my dynamat project in the next month or so when weather cools a bit - doors are next - Just not totally sure how much I will do....
Here’s a few pics of mine. You don’t have to use Dynamat, there’s plenty of options available and you can get first time buyer discounts at many. I prefer SoundSkins or SoundShield. Whichever you go with you will immediately notice a significant change in how well your bass response is.
You should also deaden the inside of the door (backside of outer door skin). This is easily done by removing the lower vapor barrier (use ice to harden the sealant and it’ll peel away easier allowing you to reuse the sealant). With that and the 6.5 removed you can reach every portion of the inner door skin. Pro tip, use masking tape to mark the edges of the door panel before you remove it…if you install the deadener too far out to the edges the panel doesn’t fit right (ask me how I know lol). Also make sure you cut out holes for all the bolt heads, clips, and mounting holes. I recommend at least 1.25” diameter so the door clips can seat properly.

Feel free to PM me if you have questions, I’ve picked up more tricks than I care to write out here.

8753B7F6-D775-4962-B7D2-A4203505F5B3.jpeg

6B1970CB-355A-44F6-8EA5-B8E890411C32.jpeg
 

Evolvd

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So any insight if the mids and tweeters can be replaced with good results?
You can replace any of them but you’d do better off to run them from a separate amp. You’ll need to run new wires up to the A-pillar if you do this. The stock mid and tweet are wired in parallel so if you reuse the stock wiring on 4 ohm speakers you’ll be pushing 2 ohms and likely blow the speakers or fry the stock amp.
I have run my system on just the front stage and I’m not a fan. I prefer rear fill on my music so I’m sticking with that setup for my build. I did unplug the center channel as it seemed to be pretty useless.
 

Mike Pfeifer

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Hello Guys,

So I have the 9-Speaker on a 22 Mach 1.

Did the following:
- Fully deadened the doors (they rattled with the slightest bass note)
- Removed Center Speaker
- Disabled Factory EQ using Forscan

I am an audio nut, but I am really impressed with this system now, the amount of bass that 6.5" produce is quite a lot, is it me or deleting the center channel produces more power and... bass??? What would happen if I delete the rear shelf speakers?

Power (to me) is more than enough and Imaging is quite excellent.

Only downside is the 3.5" Mid and Tweet are a bit muddy, that is a speaker issue and probably not the amp.

Have you guys changed this two speakers and what results did you get? Does the tweeter have a built in capacitor or is the signal crossed over at the amp? What ohms are these two speakers?

I am thinking that only changing this two speakers could really clean things up... really hesitant to swap the 6.5" since they produce a lot of bass.

Thanks!
JC
Did you happen to take any pics of the sound deadening in the doors? I have seen a few peoples takes and more info is always helpful. Maybe some specifics on what you did with the doors?
 

DrZed

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I disconnected centre and two tweeters. (I felt more than enough decent tremble comes from a decent mid)
Installed 3.5" Mids with 600Hz bass blockers.
Have not done the EQ mod.
Holy smokes... if the OP likes what he hears now... wait until that tiny change of the 3.5s is done (with bass blockers). (I did 92dB Hertz speakers).

Changing the mids and disconnecting the centre speaker changes the pitch (and I am pretty sure volume) of sync commands and the door chime sound, slightly different. There is also an audible "click" when you open one of the doors from the speakers, no doubt something with the fact that the mids are not 8 ohm like factory. (if I remember correctly)

Add a 10" sub turned down and you've got some amazing music. (I think so).
 


Mike Pfeifer

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Did you not see my post above yours?
Yes, I did. You also posted the same pic in another thread in a reply to me. I truly do appreciate that. With that being said, I figure it doesn’t hurt to get other peoples takes on it as well. Just wanted to see a few different approaches to to it before I decide how to tackle it myself.
 

Earlsays

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Here’s a few pics of mine. You don’t have to use Dynamat, there’s plenty of options available and you can get first time buyer discounts at many. I prefer SoundSkins or SoundShield. Whichever you go with you will immediately notice a significant change in how well your bass response is.
You should also deaden the inside of the door (backside of outer door skin). This is easily done by removing the lower vapor barrier (use ice to harden the sealant and it’ll peel away easier allowing you to reuse the sealant). With that and the 6.5 removed you can reach every portion of the inner door skin. Pro tip, use masking tape to mark the edges of the door panel before you remove it…if you install the deadener too far out to the edges the panel doesn’t fit right (ask me how I know lol). Also make sure you cut out holes for all the bolt heads, clips, and mounting holes. I recommend at least 1.25” diameter so the door clips can seat properly.

Feel free to PM me if you have questions, I’ve picked up more tricks than I care to write out here.

8753B7F6-D775-4962-B7D2-A4203505F5B3.jpeg

6B1970CB-355A-44F6-8EA5-B8E890411C32.jpeg
Thanks!!! That is helpful - I already did the rear quarters and under the rear seat bottom - although I need to fix it - the locating pins in the quarters - I covered up the holes, so I need to open those up so the quarter trim will sit properly. I will probably also pull the carpet and the headliner and do that as well. Rear deck as well.
 

Evolvd

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Yes, I did. You also posted the same pic in another thread in a reply to me. I truly do appreciate that. With that being said, I figure it doesn’t hurt to get other peoples takes on it as well. Just wanted to see a few different approaches to to it before I decide how to tackle it myself.
Gotcha. Not sure how many variations you can do this in…every pic I’ve seen looks the same. Some have more seams, some have less. But the fewer seams you have the more waste you’ll create.
 

Evolvd

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Thanks!!! That is helpful - I already did the rear quarters and under the rear seat bottom - although I need to fix it - the locating pins in the quarters - I covered up the holes, so I need to open those up so the quarter trim will sit properly. I will probably also pull the carpet and the headliner and do that as well. Rear deck as well.
My door pin holes weren’t wide enough so I pushed a 24mm socket against that area and ran my blade around it to cut a wider round hole.
 

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I've been reading about this EQ bit in Forscan. May give me a reason to jump back in to it since I already have the OBD dongle from my F-150. Frankly, I think the 9 speaker setup isn't half bad, but I had the truck for 4 years and my ears got used to it I guess. The Mustang center channel bit I'm curious about too.

It probably doesn't make too much of a difference other than weight, but what thickness sound damping material are you guys using?
 

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I've been reading about this EQ bit in Forscan. May give me a reason to jump back in to it since I already have the OBD dongle from my F-150. Frankly, I think the 9 speaker setup isn't half bad, but I had the truck for 4 years and my ears got used to it I guess. The Mustang center channel bit I'm curious about too.

It probably doesn't make too much of a difference other than weight, but what thickness sound damping material are you guys using?
I used SoundSkins and SoundShield which is 3/16” and 11/64 respectively.
 

Earlsays

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I used Noico 80 mil/2mm peel and stick - made a big difference - I also used Dynamat Dynaliner to make a trunk floor liner to go under the ford accessory plastic trunk liner - THAT made a giant differance - I plan on putting sheets of Dynaliner under the carpet after I cover that in Noico or someother peel and stick sound deadener. My goal is a nice, quiet luxury car interior.
 

Darthy Jo

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Thanks, both. I have some Kilmat from my project car that's 80 mil and I was thinking of going with a 50 mil for the Mustang doors if I did both the inner and outer skins. That may sway my decision on the trunk and rear bench, and I have yet to decide on a subwoofer and rear deck setup.
 

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Thanks, both. I have some Kilmat from my project car that's 80 mil and I was thinking of going with a 50 mil for the Mustang doors if I did both the inner and outer skins. That may sway my decision on the trunk and rear bench, and I have yet to decide on a subwoofer and rear deck setup.
I did my trunk lid - under the inside carpet on the inside of the trunk lid, and as much of the trunk skin as I could reach - that trunk is HEAVY now....
 

 
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