How to stretch 1/8 inch thick steel plate?

[HoosierDaddy]

Or hopefully a better solution to my problem.

I'm moving a 113 lb. TV from one room to another. I bought an articulated mount that allows a 24" extension and when I went to install it, I find the wall has 24" stud spacing. Been in this house 33 years and every other wall I've checked had 16" spacing. The mount requires 16" spacing.

Options that come to mind:

1. Buy another expensive mount (1f 24" stud types exist) and try to sell this one. Online store isn't open today yet but expect return unpractical since the mount weighs over 50 lbs.
   
   
2. Cut out big section of drywall between the studs and add horizontal 2 by Xs between them where the upper and lower mounting points will be and nail the drywall back.
   
   
3. Bolt one end of the mount to an existing stud and use a $#!& load of the strongest drywall anchors the full width of the mount top and bottom (slots run most of the length).
   
   
4. Bolt a sheet of something to two existing studs and bolt the mount to that sheet.
   

I am not confident I could do any precision cutting of wood and don't have the best tools for attempting. But maybe horizontal boards can be a little shorter than the gap between studs since I suspect they would need to be attached with some type of L brackets rather than angled screws. If I go this way what would be the lumber size to give me the most height to help this amateur hit close to center after reinstalling the drywall over it. Or better to have the widest dimension front to back and figure how to mark the drywall exactly where the boards are behind it.

Similarly, if I bolt a sheet cut to extend past two studs and taller than the mount, it would be hidden but wavy sides and other than 90 degree corners would bug me anyway. What would be the best material.

I'm worried about even a lot of drywall anchors plus one stud or a sheet of anything bolted to the wall can take the load of a 113 lb TV extended 24 inches from them. I find massive load ratings for anchors but they say those are sheer loads. I have no idea what is strong enough for that much weight on a two foot lever (other than two 2x4s studs the mount is designed for).

Option 3 would be the one well within skill set and tools.

Ideas, opinions?

Sponsored

 

[tom_sprecher]

Screw a piece of painted 1/2" or 3/4" AC plywood to the existing studs with deck screws every 6-8" and then bolt your mount to that. It will be behind the TV and out of sight.

Soup.

 

[Jimmy Dean]

I had to do this for a mount as well, just put up a small section of plywood or 24" long 1x3 or 1x4 between two studs and screw into that. Haven't had any issues, granted my TV isn't as heavy, its about 75lbs, real old 44"

 

[GT 550]

As above but go min 1.5" thickness to be sure. Couple of 2x4 should be fine.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Thanks everyone.

Change of plans.

Although the seller's policy was "buyer pays return shipping", they issued me a pre-paid FedEx label. I had ruled out returning 60 lbs on my dime.

So I searched for an equivalent mount that worked with 24" studs. No dice, at least for less than 3 times the cost. The big difference with the one I started with was it was built like a tank and could hold almost twice what my TV weighs. Never found one with that weight capacity and sturdiness for 24" studs. Plenty rated for more weight than my TV (but well under the original) but the arms or plates were relatively puny and/or reviews mentioned sagging or not going back to the original positioning after extending.

For this location, I had decided on a full motion articulated mount because it lets me get behind the TV to plug things in, etc.. I only knew of fixed, tilt or articulated. While searching, I found a mount that lets me pull the TV out for 6+" access. So went with that. It also tilts, rotates, etc. within that limit but I don't need any of that other than to level it if I don't bolt it to the studs perfectly square.

 

[GT 550]

Good outcome. Do you still need to bolt it to the wall?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Good outcome. Do you still need to bolt it to the wall?

Oh yeah. The TV is 114 lbs. The mount I ended up with bolts to studs of various distances including 24. The only thing done to the wall will be the 4 bolt holes into the studs.

I won't have the mount until Tuesday. Took one day for UPS to bring it from Tennessee to Phoenix, then 4 days scheduled for the local delivery.

I can't even add the electrical outlet behind where the TV will go yet because I won't know the exact real-estate the mount will occupy on the wall until I get it. I know exactly where I want the TV to be but not where the mount will be vertically to accomplish that.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

After I have the mount on the wall, gonna have to hire someone to help with the mounting due to weight and bulkiness.

1. Take this 80" TV off the mount its on now.
2. Remove the "hangers" for that mount from it.
3. Lug that TV up a flight of stairs with a switchback.
4. Bolt on the "hangers" for the new mount.
5. Hang it on the new mount.
6. Bolt the hangers from the old mount to the new 86" TV.
7. Hang the new TV on the mount the 80" was originally on.

Can't do the odd numbers by myself and don't want to risk my age friends getting hurt.

 

[GT 550]

Sounds like a plan. The even numbers are definitely best left to professionals, strength alone isn't the answer on some moving jobs and trying to chance it can lead to all kinds of grief. As Clint E said, 'a man's gotta know his limitations'. Good luck!

 

[shogun32]

seems it would be simpler to buy a new 40lb TV - that'll get you 65"
85" come in at 100lbs. A handy 'server' lift can support the weight of the unit while you muck about with the mount. Or you can construct a very simple box with 2x4 to act as a place to rest hte unit at hte needed height - still have to hold onto it - you're just taking the weight off the 2 unfortunate yahoos having to stand there with you.

get a couple of moving pads and some 3" strapping. put the TV short-size edge on the doubled up pad with strapping routed under. Wrap it over your wrists to lock and simply stand up to raise. Tape pad to TV so it'll stay put.

When going up stairs only the guy on the bottom does any lifting. The guy at hte top is just there to control left/right tilt and to push away (toward teh guy lifting) so the object remains mostly upright.

Or if you're a bunch of weaklings and you wrap the pad all the way up the long edge, you can tilt onto the steps and slide it up the ramp. In this case the top guy uses strapping to pull and bottom guy is helping push and guiding left/right tilt.

Yes I used to work for Allied Van Lines.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

get a couple of moving pads and some 3" strapping. put the TV short-size edge on the doubled up pad with strapping routed under. Wrap it over your wrists to lock and simply stand up to raise. Tape pad to TV so it'll stay put.

When going up stairs only the guy on the bottom does any lifting. The guy at hte top is just there to control left/right tilt and to push away (toward teh guy lifting) so the object remains mostly upright.

Or if you're a bunch of weaklings and you wrap the pad all the way up the long edge, you can tilt onto the steps and slide it up the ramp. In this case the top guy uses strapping to pull and bottom guy is helping push and guiding left/right tilt.

Yes I used to work for Allied Van Lines.

Printed your post and memorizing.

Sponsored