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How to Retain Handling Without Front Sway Bar

SheepDog

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With a whipple 10 rib and Alternator relocation, the added pulley length to the crank snout to me is worrisome. I am a person inherently who sees things from outside the box, and of course the what ifs. I have found it is easier to build with high reliability as possible, and accordantly, then to wind up spending 20k-30k for a new engine because I just felt it just wasn't needed, should be OK, it wouldn't happen to me way of thinking. Pay now or pay later, that is the old cliché which still stands true today in performance building.
None of this answers the question. Is your intention to make 1500+ horsepower and dip into the sub 8 second 1/4 times? Or are you just trying to build a 1500 horsepower track handling car that will need a front swaybar? Or, are you trying to build a 1500 HP grocery getter/daily driver, that has a bunch of shiny bits under the hood to show off at cars and coffee?
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DougS550

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None of this answers the question. Is your intention to make 1500+ horsepower and dip into the sub 8 second 1/4 times? Or are you just trying to build a 1500 horsepower track handling car that will need a front swaybar? Or, are you trying to build a 1500 HP grocery getter/daily driver, that has a bunch of shiny bits under the hood to show off at cars and coffee?
For now, I am building a 100% street car on 93 with around 700whp. As far as the sway bar, I WOULD NEVER REMOVE FOR ANY MOD. But that's just me.thanks for your help
 

DougS550

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Crank supports are for big Horsepower drag cars that go home on a trailer.

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You might want to tell that to the people who broke their crank nose/snout running 700ish whp. Rolling the dice isn't for me. But hey, that's just me. Thanks for your help
 

SheepDog

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For now, I am building a 100% street car on 93 with around 700whp. As far as the sway bar, I WOULD NEVER REMOVE FOR ANY MOD. But that's just me.thanks for your help
Oh ok, when you mentioned 10 rib Whipple setup, with alternator relocation and crank support, it made it sound like you were going full wheelie boi.

A P1SC with a 6 rib or a Whipple stage one can both explode your bottom end, much less something capable of 20+ PSI.
 

TeeLew

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Update on this. I have sent emails to every sway bar manufacturer I can think of and have made some progress with a company called Carolina Sway bar.

If I send them my current sway bar and take some measurements they can bend up a custom bar for this application.

That being said one bar is pricy, but I’m willing to buy it reguardless. If I can get a group of 10 it cheapens the cost significantly. Any takers?
Probably damned few, which is why no one makes one. It's not a thinking problem. It's just the fact that no one will buy it.
 

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SheepDog

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You might want to tell that to the people who broke their crank nose/snout running 700ish whp. Rolling the dice isn't for me. But hey, that's just me. Thanks for your help
They broke their cranks because they installed aftermarket balencers incorrectly, or were shooting for 1000+ HP, which of course the stock bottom end and crankshaft were never designed for anyway. Anyone doing a 10 rib setup and trying to make big power, is likely already building a drag car, that doesn't need a front swaybar
 

SheepDog

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One option for those considering the crank support but still trying to retain the swaybar, may be to install a different K member (that keeps the swaybar, not the drag racing K member). Unsure if it provides more clearance between the swaybar and crank support than the factory K member, but maybe one of the pro's knows.

https://www.beefcakeracing.com/bmr-km760r/

@beefcake @LethalPerformance
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