How to remove alternator pulley? Whipple 10 rib related

[Super Werty]

In the middle of the Whipple ten rib install and I'm not sure how to get the alternator pulley off?

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[Jmeo]

You need an H17 1/2 drive socket like this one

Slap it on an impact gun and it will come right off

 

[Super Werty]

Do you have a picture of the Whipple pulley on the alternator installed?

 

[Jmeo]

I took the entire system off getting ready for my new car but I have this if it helps

 

[Super Werty]

What impact tool fits in there to remove it? Thanks for the help btw!

 

[Jmeo]

With the airbox removed, using the above mentioned H17 socket on a 1/2' drive impact gun you should be able to get it in there. I also had the fans out which are simple to remove so worst case you can do this to.

Couple blips of the impact and the pulley bolt will come right off

 

[Super Werty]

Air or electric? Trying to decide what to buy

Did you use the impact on the crank bolt as well?

 

[Jmeo]

Yes, a battery impact would also work if you do not have an air compressor. A good 1/2 battery impact would come in handy for suspension work as well as many other things.

I did not use an impact on the crank pulley I purchased a crank installer bolt from MMR and walked it in with a 1/2" long handled ratchet wrench.

If I were to do it again (which I will soon) I'd use a piece of threaded rod because it's long enough to use a washer and a nut so you can turn the nut to essentially pull the balancer on as opposed to pushing it on with a bolt like the MMR.

 

[z06psi]

Makita 18V 1/2" impact here.

 

[Super Werty]

Yes, a battery impact would also work if you do not have an air compressor. A good 1/2 battery impact would come in handy for suspension work as well as many other things.

I did not use an impact on the crank pulley I purchased a crank installer bolt from MMR and walked it in with a 1/2" long handled ratchet wrench.

If I were to do it again (which I will soon) I'd use a piece of threaded rod because it's long enough to use a washer and a nut so you can turn the nut to essentially pull the balancer on as opposed to pushing it on with a bolt like the MMR.

I'm slightly confused. I thought the new crank bolt pushed on the damper as you tighten? Why would you need a threaded rod?

 

[Super Werty]

Makita 18V 1/2" impact here.

Did you use this on the crank? To remove or install pulley?

 

[z06psi]

Did you use this on the crank? To remove or install pulley?

Yep. Also a LSX pulley setup torqued to 220ftlbs.

 

[Jmeo]

I'm slightly confused. I thought the new crank bolt pushed on the damper as you tighten? Why would you need a threaded rod?

The first time I installed the balancer I used the MRR crank bolt. When you align the balancer you start the bolt and when you tighten the bolt it threads itself into the crank and it pushes the balancer on. I believe the MMR bolt I used is designed to work with stock crank pulley not the ATI balancer. The stock pulley is not as deep as the ATI so the bolt just barely grabbed some threads and could have stripped out on me. When I was done the tip of the bolt was stretched out and I wouldn't want to use it again in fear of stripping out the crank threads. I feel I was lucky it didn't happen the first time.

When I just returned my car to stock I rented a crank install tool which worked perfectly. It's a long threaded rod that you thread into the crank probably 2-3 inches. Then you put a big washer and a nut on and when you tighten the nut it pulls the balancer on. The rod doesn't turn, just the nut which causes the pulling and the balancer walked on 10 times easier than when I put the ATI on. This is why I'm gonna use a threaded rod next time with the ATI balancer. The tool I rented is too short for the ATI balancer and I didn't like how the MMR bolt wasnt long enough to get in he crank threads deep enough to get it started.

You can use what methed works best for you, I'm just recommending you use the threaded rod way as its safer and way easier. Put some oil on the crank and it goes on so easy it can be done with hand tools which I like better because you can feel it bottom out and stop. I've seen people break bolts off in cranks because they didn't realize how much stress it causes and if the bolt is weak it will snap which creates a whole new nightmare.

 

[Super Werty]

Interesting. Well the Whipple instructions just say to use the arp bolt to get the pulley pressed on... Hopefully it doesn't break. That would be a nightmare

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