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How to race my 19 GT a10 pp1 with lund flexfuel+e85?

gregsdart

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Lund flexfuel tune, and like the title says, stock michilin pp1 tires. What is the best method to race this car? Drag mode? Shifter in Sport for the first shift? Rpm for launch? I am guessing about 24 psi in back tires, 45 in front? Maybe remove the airfilter element?
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gregsdart

gregsdart

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Further, any cooldown tips?
 

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Leave it in D and go. Cool down tips well ur in Minnesota so I'd just open the hood for 20 mins.
 

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i have a vmp flex fuel tune 18 pp1 automatic.go to drag mode,traction control off,28lbs in rear on mich ps4s.leave around 1500 rpm.
 
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gregsdart

gregsdart

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i have a vmp flex fuel tune 18 pp1 automatic.go to drag mode,traction control off,28lbs in rear on mich ps4s.leave around 1500 rpm.
A flexfuel tune from lund goes fastest in drive. Shift points in drag mode were way too high. I couldn't use much stall at all or spin was instant. I got one good pass. I was the second car down the track and went 1.903 60 ft, 11.90 et at 119 mph. After other cars ran, traction was so bad i gave up and went home.
 

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My vmp flex fuel tune also had high shift points,lost et and mph.I had the tune revised to stock shift points and the car picked up et and mph.I hold around a 1.900 sixty ft with the stock tires once in awhile i hit 1.800 sixty.Ive been 11.79 with the car.120mph.
A flexfuel tune from lund goes fastest in drive. Shift points in drag mode were way too high. I couldn't use much stall at all or spin was instant. I got one good pass. I was the second car down the track and went 1.903 60 ft, 11.90 et at 119 mph. After other cars ran, traction was so bad i gave up and went home.
 

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A flexfuel tune from lund goes fastest in drive. Shift points in drag mode were way too high. I couldn't use much stall at all or spin was instant. I got one good pass. I was the second car down the track and went 1.903 60 ft, 11.90 et at 119 mph. After other cars ran, traction was so bad i gave up and went home.
Need better tires in the rear and some suspension work to kill some wheel hop. (consider some Nitto 555rii as they are a streetable DR that can handle rain for a dd too and some BMR cradle lockouts or Steeda equivalents) Then drag mode, traction control and advanced trac off, make sure to get the rubber warm, test different psi and stall rpm and get some seat time in. DA is important too but if you're in cooler climate that's already a plus. Weight reductions are a plus as well.
 
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gregsdart

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I have stop the hop kit plus vertical links. Wheelhop was non exisrant. I left at idle since i am on e85 with 3.55 gears. Traction was good, no excessive spin felt. Later runs trying any stall apeed at all and spin was instant and . 3 to .5 worse et. It was obvious track prep was quickly Compromised by all the street tire cars running. It was a "street drags" event. Rpms in drag mode were so high (7800?) I was surprised the motor didn't hit a rev limiter. I believe Lund firmed up the Drive mode shifts to work best with the E85 and reduce shock to the driveline some versus running drag mode, and also drive mode now no longer "hesitates" (power reduction) on shifts. So i believe Lund when he said run it in drive.
 

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I have stop the hop kit plus vertical links. Wheelhop was non exisrant. I left at idle since i am on e85 with 3.55 gears. Traction was good, no excessive spin felt. Later runs trying any stall apeed at all and spin was instant and . 3 to .5 worse et. It was obvious track prep was quickly Compromised by all the street tire cars running. It was a "street drags" event. Rpms in drag mode were so high (7800?) I was surprised the motor didn't hit a rev limiter. I believe Lund firmed up the Drive mode shifts to work best with the E85 and reduce shock to the driveline some versus running drag mode, and also drive mode now no longer "hesitates" (power reduction) on shifts. So i believe Lund when he said run it in drive.
Do you mean drive vs sport where the shifter moves? Or do you mean use the drive mode toggle to use normal mode instead of drag mode? Agreed you want to have the shifter in drive instead of sport but unless the toggled normal mode was made more aggressive than toggled drag mode i don't see the advantage. Better rear tire will reduce spin and allow more of the power to be usable and put ro he ground.

Edit: I saw reference to drag mode earlier in the thread so I assumed a drive mode equipped car where you can toggle from normal, sport+, track, drag and snow. If it is not then my apologies for the misunderstanding. If that is the case you only have drive and sport with the shifter and in that case then yes drive.
 
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gregsdart

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Do you mean drive vs sport where the shifter moves? Or do you mean use the drive mode toggle to use normal mode instead of drag mode? Agreed you want to have the shifter in drive instead of sport but unless the toggled normal mode was made more aggressive than toggled drag mode i don't see the advantage. Better rear tire will reduce spin and allow more of the power to be usable and put ro he ground.
Lund set the rrans tune up for best ET in drive/normal mode. No need to do anything beyond turn off traction control. I agree for multiple runs on a poorly prepped track or on the street that better tires are a must. But budget got hit hard( $8000? ) when i hurt the block in my drag car, so i will live with what i have for now. Just did cat deletes and that is the strongest 20 hp i have ever gained! Have to feather the throttle now on the street below about 15 mph.
On the Dart in the sig, aluminum block ordered, will take 100 lbs off the car. 8.70s for sure at 155 or more?
 

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vmp set my shift points at 7800 rpm and i had the car dynoed it made max power at 7000.I had tuned revised to stock shift points.Been 11.79 on flex fuel tune,cradle lock outs,and stock tires.
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