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How to permanently get rid of wheel hop?

SNARLINGCoyote5.0

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What products out there will help get rid of the wheel hop ? I seen some steeda stuff but they say it doesn't take it away completely .
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mustang_guy

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This.http://www.lethalperformance.com/sh...d-racing-2015-mustang-rear-sub-frame-kit.html

And this http://www.lethalperformance.com/sh...da-2015-mustang-stage-3-handling-package.html

All you need. Id run some viking rears if you plan on street or strip. the ford kit is the easiest way to do all those bushings. Its a direct swap. Ditch the oem rear subframe and put that in. The other stuff from steeda is a fairly quick install.

The all metal bushings in fords whole kit are better then metal inserts. They will never be as firm as whole metal bushings. Food for thought
 

BMR Tech

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Holy smokes. That's a ton of money, considering you can get the same performance from our stuff for much, much less.

And yes, the Viking shocks help tremendously.
 

mustang_guy

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Holy smokes. That's a ton of money, considering you can get the same performance from our stuff for much, much less.

And yes, the Viking shocks help tremendously.
Your stuff is nice. However im skeptical metal inserts tops do more then full metal bushings. Doesnt make logical sense. I just dont find its as effective. Im not saying any companies stuff doesnt work. I personally feel if im going to take it apart i want full metal. As far as the steeda its whatever brand he wants. As far as ford racing kit full metal> partial metal with rubber in the middle. Ps ive bought from you before for other mustangs. :cheers:
 

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Bmr works perfect for me. 10 second passes and zero wheel hop.
 

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mustang_guy

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Bmr works perfect for me. 10 second passes and zero wheel hop.
Wasnt saying it doesnt work. However full metal is still superior to insert covers that go over the top of rubber. There is a reason for people serious about drag all rubber driveline bushings are removed as are engine mounts in favor of solid metal mounts. Not saying thats the OP intent. If you're going to take the subframe out, might as well just go big or go home. The bushings come installed already in the new subframe. Just have to swap your diff over and raise it back up. Bmr makes nice stuff as do steeda etc. I just prefer something more hardcore.:cheers:
 

Old Car Guy

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More.....

Bmr works perfect for me. 10 second passes and zero wheel hop.
More.... Info on your GT Mustang that makes 10 sec, passes and what Suspension mods you have done, thanks John :ford::cheers:
 

BMR Tech

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Apparently you haven't looked at what we offer.

I suggest you look on our Web site and check out the many S550 cradle solutions we offer (more than anyone).

Our delrin cradle and aluminum diff bushings perform as well as the FRPP pieces, and they're $220 for both.

;)
 

mustang_guy

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Apparently you haven't looked at what we offer.

I suggest you look on our Web site and check out the many S550 cradle solutions we offer (more than anyone).

Our delrin cradle and aluminum diff bushings perform as well as the FRPP pieces, and they're $220 for both.

;)
Ive been before. Ill agree your delrin will be adequate for most. But if im going to spend the time and effort to drop it out ill spend more for solid metal and everything already inserted. Less work. For those wanting 8-9 second cars like myself, metal is king. For those on a a bit of budget i fully think your products are great. In my opinion this isnt whether or not your products arent great, they work great for the price. I just dont feel they are the best option for those that have the money. Like i said, ive used your products in other mustangs. Wasnt disappointed for the price. Im going to be picking up your jacking rails eventually.:thumbsup:
 

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mustang_guy

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Check out the suspension section. Tons of stuff.
I have. Nothing i think i can use for my own personal build except the jacking rails. I could use the toe rods and v links. But i still would need the steeda bars. easier to buy it all at one place instead of paying shipping twice. I dont feel there will be a difference between the two. Both have metal bushings. why pay shipping twice? I have personally maped and priced out my build list out. Ive seen close to all thats available for the s550 chassis. Unless something new comes out i doubt my list will change. Gl on your goals!
 

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I have. Nothing i think i can use for my own personal build except the jacking rails. I could use the toe rods and v links. But i still would need the steeda bars. easier to buy it all at one place instead of paying shipping twice. I dont feel there will be a difference between the two. Both have metal bushings. why pay shipping twice? I have personally maped and priced out my build list out. Ive seen close to all thats available for the s550 chassis. Unless something new comes out i doubt my list will change. Gl on your goals!
Was replying to OP. :headbonk:
 

BMR Tech

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Ive been before. Ill agree your delrin will be adequate for most. But if im going to spend the time and effort to drop it out ill spend more for solid metal and everything already inserted. Less work. For those wanting 8-9 second cars like myself, metal is king. For those on a a bit of budget i fully think your products are great. In my opinion this isnt whether or not your products arent great, they work great for the price. I just dont feel they are the best option for those that have the money. Like i said, ive used your products in other mustangs. Wasnt disappointed for the price. Im going to be picking up your jacking rails eventually.:thumbsup:
Well luckily my '15 is quicker and faster than anyones who makes competing products. :headbang:

Our billet diff bbushing are solid one piece. It's doesn't get any better.

Our Delrin cradle bushings perform just as well as the aluminum versions. If the aluminum performed better, we would have made them aluminum. :thumbsup:

Good luck on your build. I don't blame you for wanting a drop in cradle that works.
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