How to fix the OPT7 Arrows fluttering

Grimmer

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Some of the other threads where we have discussed the following solutions to the OPT7 Arrows improper sequencing got to be rather lengthy and the information got a little buried. There have been a couple of requests to create a stand-alone thread that is easier to follow (and shorter). So, I have created this thread in an attempt to present the information all together and in short order.

The Problem: OPT7 Arrows do not properly sequence** when the engine is running and the parking lights are off. This appears at the turn signal fixture itself. Instead of a steady outward flow, the turn signal lights flutter, turn off too soon and try to restart resulting in a rapid irregular and incomplete sequence.

OPT7 customer service indicated to me that the issue is more prevalent on the GT’s and that (at the time) they had no fix and recommended that I return the units. However, they really are one of the best-looking options available AND I had already determined that so long as the parking light portion of the fixture (white running light) was powered they always worked flawlessly. Also note, that since my initial interaction with OPT7's customer service, there have been other forum members that have acquired a "Version 2" of the Arrows and some have reported that OPT7 has successfully sorted out the irregular sequencing. If you are not having trouble with the sequencing, you can still use either of these options to get that white DRL look.

The Solution: Provide power to the parking light portion of the OPT7 Arrows whenever the ignition is on regardless of whether or not the vehicle’s parking light circuit is on. This has the added “benefit” of them acting like white DRL’s. Which, in my opinion, looks even better. If you do not want the white DRL’s, then there are other products available from the usual outlets for Mustang mods.

In a nutshell, there are two main options to accomplish this goal:
1) Modify the wiring such that the parking light portion of the OPT7s are powered by a vehicle circuit that is HOT whenever the ignition is on; or
2) Program the BCM (via FORScan) to include the vehicle’s parking light circuit with the DRL’s.

Each of these options will be described in the following posts.

**Please note that this is not “hyper-flash”, which I understand to be the turn signal indicator in the instrument cluster clippety-clopping like a galloping horse. The OPT7 Arrows are designed to (and effectively do) prevent this right out of the box.
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Grimmer

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Option #1: Modify the wiring such that the OPT7s parking light is powered whenever the ignition is on.

*** Please note that the following was figured out for the US version of the 2016 Mustang GT. And as always, proceed at your own risk. I’m not responsible for anything that you do to your car. ***

It just so happens that there is a fused power line that is HOT when the ignition is on that already runs to the headlamp fixtures, only a foot or so away from the front turn signal fixture. This is the line that tells the headlamp fixture to turn on the “gill” lights. Please note that the gill lights are not part of the DRL circuit and they are powered whenever the ignition is on. In my opinion, the easiest way to get the ignition switched power for the OPT7’s is to tap into this line. To make it even easier, Diode Dynamics at one time offered a harness designed to tap into this circuit (~$40 USD). The part number DD4051 is no longer listed on their website, but I am still seeing it on the usual outlets. Perhaps Diode Dynamics no longer offers them at large, but maybe you can call them to see if you can still order a pair. If that is too pricey or the DD harness is no longer available, there is always the option to use Posi-taps to tap the wire directly (discussed at the bottom of this post).

To make the mod completely reversible without modifying the vehicle’s factory harness, you will need the following:
Diode Dynamics DRL Harness: DD4051; and
DD4051.jpg

Trailering Diode Kit: Quick Tap or Blade Terminals
QuickTapDiodes.jpg
BladeTerminalDiodes..jpg


Instructions:
It is best practice to disconnect the battery before messing with any wiring.

Unplug the headlight assembly connector and install the DD harness between it and the headlight.

Cut the green wire on the OPT7 between its connector and the light fixture. This should be the parking light wire; I assume that it is still green. This wire must be cut so that the diode pack can be installed in-line. This is essential to isolate the gill light circuit from the parking light circuit. If they are not properly isolated, they will power each other. The excess draw may damage either circuit, and since the parking light circuit is controlled by the BCM, be careful. Some of the trailer diode packs tap the wires directly, others require blade terminal connectors to be installed on the ends of the OPT7 wire you just cut.

Grab the take-off wire (purple) from the DD harness and connect it to the side of the diode pack that has two connections, either is fine.

Connect the CAR SIDE of the recently cut OPT7 wire (the side closest to the connector) to the remaining connection on the side of the trailer diode pack that had two (next to the DD harness connection above).

The remaining single connector side of the trailer diode pack is connected to the OPT7 side of the cut wire (closest to the OPT7 light fixture).

Note that the green wire on the OPT7 which is cut can get pretty short/tight when trying to stick the diode pack in, you might need to extend it a bit.

Due to the weight of the diode pack, I recommend securing it to something with a zip tie or tape so that it doesn't bounce around and stress the connections or wires... (if possible)

Rinse and repeat for the other side of the car.


If you cannot get your hands on a DD DRL harness, then you can tap directly into the wire in the factory harness. If you go this route, I highly recommend using Posi-taps for the best possible and water resistant connection. Below is the information for the headlamp assembly connector and the wire color to use (2016 US version, others are “probably” the same). As you can see, the wire you want to tap is located on pin#3 and is gray with a violet stripe.

Headlamp Connector.jpg
 
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Grimmer

Grimmer

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Option #2: Program the BCM as-built option codes using FORScan to include the parking light circuit with the vehicle’s DRLs.

*** Please note that the following was figured out for the US version of the 2016 Mustang GT. And as always, proceed at your own risk. I’m not responsible for anything that you do to your car. ***

Before getting into the details, I want to point out a few things about using this option:

First, the DRL lights are designed to only come on when the ignition is on and the parking brake is off (automatics also must not be in PARK). This means that idling the engine in PARK and/or with the parking brake set, the OPT7s white parking circuit will not be powered and the OPT7 Arrow's turn signal function will revert to whatever it was doing before.

Second, this DRL option will power the entire parking light circuit of the vehicle (front, side, and rear marker lights). There is no FORScan option to activate only the front bumper parking lights. Additionally, since the parking light circuit is on, the gill lights will be switched to their dim “night mode” operation. In my opinion, this creates an unbalanced look on the front of the vehicle since the OPT7 whites will be much brighter than the gills are on dim mode.

OK, here’s the how-to:
There is a lot of information about using FORScan to modify the as-built option codes on this forum. I am going to assume that you have read all of that (including the disclaimers) and have acquired the necessary hardware and software to make the changes.

There are three data blocks of interest that are related to the DRL function. You can find/verify them for yourself in the spreadsheet. They are:

726-26-02: x1xx xxxx xxxx (activates parking lights as DRL's)
726-45-01: xxxx 7Fxx xxxx (allows all possible DRL circuit combinations)
726-50-01: 01xx (bit wise selection of which lighting circuits to include in DRL function. 01 = None - Parking lights only)

I have set mine up using all three, but I have also successfully set them up using only 726-26-02: x1xx xxxx xxxx and leaving the other two unmodified. Start by trying the first option, but remember that the DRL circuit is not active when the parking brake is set or when the automatics are in PARK.

In the end, I abandoned this DRL option because the gills were dimmed and all the parking lights were on all the time. I restored my DRL as-built option codes to the way they were from the factory and used the wiring modification described in the previous post.
 
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5.0_SD

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Awesome @Grimmer Thank you so much for this.
Sticky this please! And my 1,000 post lol.
 

ahl395

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This worked great for me! Thanks again
 

anferny28

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Just finished up Option 1 and worked perfectly! Thankyou!
 

BlueDragon

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Just did option 1 today! Thank you for sharing this information!

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natepcbfl

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So someone figured it out, good job man! One of mine got hit with a rock and put a hole in it. So I am replacing them with Diode Dynamics DD5011 and when the lights are off I get one flash and that's it, and its not even a full flash. Ill bet when I add the DRL adapter it will stop. So glad this community exists!!
UPDATE: Installed the DRL harness (DD4051) and they work as intended now.
 
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5.0_SD

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I finally did mine with @Grimmer option one, 2nd diode option. Works perfectly...thank you.
 

Canoman

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Those of you that used the Hopkins diode kits, did you crimp with the insulation on the spade terminals or pull them out, crimp and then replace the insulation?

And, can I get by with this for crimping, or do I need a different crimp tool? (Attached image)

I’m still not that great at crimping. Thanks.

B5E73B2E-A804-4A47-B4AC-51AB5E0C53DA.jpeg
 
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5.0_SD

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Unsure about the brand you listed, but every spade terminal I've ever used you just slide the wire in and crimp...the insulated sleeve that is part of the terminal is meant to be crimped. I don't know if that will help you or not...sorry if not.
 

Canoman

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Unsure about the brand you listed, but every spade terminal I've ever used you just slide the wire in and crimp...the insulated sleeve that is part of the terminal is meant to be crimped. I don't know if that will help you or not...sorry if not.
Thanks. I borrowed a different style of crimper and got some spade terminals with a smaller "neck" on them. That brand was the brand of the trailer diodes. Should be good to go.
 
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I prefer the spade terminals with the heat shrink sheathing. There will be plenty of exposure to wet under there. I got into that space behind the front turn signal fixture after driving in the rain. The plastic fender and belly guards don't stop the water at all.
 

Canoman

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I prefer the spade terminals with the heat shrink sheathing. There will be plenty of exposure to wet under there. I got into that space behind the front turn signal fixture after driving in the rain. The plastic fender and belly guards don't stop the water at all.
I put heat shrink over the spades. Great minds think alike! Won't be water tight, but will hopefully help.
 
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Grimmer

Grimmer

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I put heat shrink over the spades. Great minds think alike! Won't be water tight, but will hopefully help.
Probably wouldn't hurt to load the female connectors up with dielectric grease as well. Although I didn't do it.
 
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