How to Enable Heated/Cooled after Swapping from Base to Premium Seats

foco808

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Has anyone been able to check the voltage required to function the H/C seat function?
 

RustlesPal

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I am new to this site and the information here is awesome. I have a set of leather 2018 Mustang GT seats that I would like to put n my 1965 Mustang. I am only interested in the movement of the seats and not in the heating and cooling. I need some help.

As i think I understand it the small connector is used for a seat to seat harness and is for the heating and cooling features....is this correct?

Also I will obviously need to supply power to the seats....its not clear to me how best to do this. I see the pin out definitions for each of the four functions but I am not sure how to connect them all to a 12V power source. Any thoughts on how best to proceed?

Thanks, guys.

Just finished my heated/cooled upgrade this week. 2016 Mustang GT 5.0 manual base. Base seats are both 6-way power seats.
I already swapped display 4.2" to 8" Sync 3. You will need that before upgrading, so you would have the buttons to turn h/c on/off.
The below assumes some knowledge of wiring/assembly/safety/etc. PLEASE REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE PLUGGING/UNPLUGGING SEAT CONNECTORS OR AIRBAG RELATED COMPONENTS.
Ask as many questions as you want.
I didn't want the memory feature (to keep things simple), so everything below only focuses on enabling H/C.
Here is what enabling h/c involved:

1- Premium seats with H/C feature. I bought mine from ebay. They were dark brown/black.
The driver side airbag was blown, so I replaced blown airbag with the original base seat airbag (identical), and took the cover to a local upholstery place which did an awesome job stitching it back ($20 as I already had the cover pulled out, then I installed the cover myself). Anyway, that's one way to find less expensive seats. Mine cost $850 delivered (+ $20 to stitch it back). Getting covers out/in is not as complicated as you would think.

2- Two pigtails WPT-1279 (from ebay ~$50-60 each).

Premium seats come with two connectors each:
  • One (bigger size) - the same as base seat connector - will call it THE BASE CONNECTOR.
  • Second (smaller size) connector in each seat - will call it THE SECOND CONNECTOR. The two second connectors connect to EACH OTHERS. Yes, ONE SINGLE harness goes from the driver side second connector to the passenger side second connector. The pin-out is straight forward. Pin 1 to pin 1 and so forth for all 16 pins. Pins 11, 12, 13, 14 are not used (again, assuming you're giving up the seat memory feature).
I used 18 gauge wires for this harness (bought a spool from Amazon). The harness length can be 8-10 ft depends on where you want to route it under carpet. Just don't route it where you would rest your feet or anywhere it can be stepped on. Target corners and folds. You get the idea.​
If you want to buy this harness, and don't want to go through making it from scratch, hit me up, I will ship you one for $300.
Once you make this harness, all the remaining wiring will involve the base connector in each seat.

Few facts:
  • the h/c module is located under the passenger seat, and gets its wiring (hot/ground/MS CAN+/MS CAN-) from the passenger seat base connector.
  • The base-model base connector will not have HOT/MS CAN+/MS CAN- fed to h/c module, so that's what we will be adding. Ground is already shared/wired.
  • Pin 1 in the base connector is HOT and goes to the power switch (already there). Pin 9 is the other HOT that is missing, that goes to the h/c module. I personally used the same power switch HOT (pin 1) to feed to pin 9 (spliced it). Yes, it is meant to feed the power switch only (30 Amps), but I think this is not a constant power load, and should be fine to share it with the h/c module, which needs 30 Amps too. That takes care of HOT.
  • For MS CAN +/MS CAN-, I fed these from the bezel connector (FCIM). Pin 17 in the FCIM connector is VDB06 (Gray) CAN + and pin 18 is VDB07 (Violet) is CAN-. Tab these two wires and feed to pins 12 and 13 on the connector/harness you made (the passenger side). See pic below.
Once you feed the hot/CAN+/CAN-, you will be able to test your build by turning h/c on/off. You will hear the relay in the h/c module clicks. That means your wiring is correct and you are done enabling h/c.

Treatable side effects:
  1. possibly the airbag light may illuminates after you connect the passenger seat. That's due to the occupancy classification sensor module (OCSM) may not be compatible between the base and premium seat. What I did, is switching the sensor between my base seat and the premium seat, and the light goes away. Don't cut the sensor tube, but replace the whole assembly - remove the seat cover and replace the whole sensor assembly (sensor+tube+pad). It is not as complicated to remove the cover as you might think.
  2. Wiring for premium seat (w/ memory) will not move on a base car, because power goes to the memory module then to the power switch, vs in base seats, power goes to the power switch directly. To fix this, tab the two power wires (hot/ground) going into the memory seat, with two power wires (hot/ground) going to the power switch. See pics below and wiring diagram PDF. This will not only make the seat move, but it will also make it slide back when you switch the car off, and slide forward when you turn car on (very cool feature to make going in/out of the car easier).
I included all wiring diagrams for everything. Ask if you have any questions.
20190926_170840.jpg
s-l500.jpg
Non-Memory Drivers Side Wiring Diagram.JPG
Premium Seat - Control Switch.JPG
Wiring-Diagram-Passenger-Seat-Climate.JPG
Connecting the HOT.jpg
data lines.jpg
SNAG-0632-1.jpg
SNAG-0632-1.jpg
View attachment 404259
20191018_145617.jpg
Driver Seat Fix.jpg
Nothing plugs into that. The buttons in the bezel will work right away. You can add buttons to the screen via forscan but the bezel buttons will work fine.
The only pigtails you will need are the two wpt-1279 that connects between the second connectors in each seat.
The two wires you will tab for MS can +/- are pins 17 and 18 from the bezel connector, the one on the right in your pic.
I recommend not changing the sensor before plugging the seat, your sensor may already be compatible. If the light goes off, switch the sensors.
Just finished my heated/cooled upgrade this week. 2016 Mustang GT 5.0 manual base. Base seats are both 6-way power seats.
I already swapped display 4.2" to 8" Sync 3. You will need that before upgrading, so you would have the buttons to turn h/c on/off.
The below assumes some knowledge of wiring/assembly/safety/etc. PLEASE REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE PLUGGING/UNPLUGGING SEAT CONNECTORS OR AIRBAG RELATED COMPONENTS.
Ask as many questions as you want.
I didn't want the memory feature (to keep things simple), so everything below only focuses on enabling H/C.
Here is what enabling h/c involved:

1- Premium seats with H/C feature. I bought mine from ebay. They were dark brown/black.
The driver side airbag was blown, so I replaced blown airbag with the original base seat airbag (identical), and took the cover to a local upholstery place which did an awesome job stitching it back ($20 as I already had the cover pulled out, then I installed the cover myself). Anyway, that's one way to find less expensive seats. Mine cost $850 delivered (+ $20 to stitch it back). Getting covers out/in is not as complicated as you would think.

2- Two pigtails WPT-1279 (from ebay ~$50-60 each).

Premium seats come with two connectors each:
  • One (bigger size) - the same as base seat connector - will call it THE BASE CONNECTOR.
  • Second (smaller size) connector in each seat - will call it THE SECOND CONNECTOR. The two second connectors connect to EACH OTHERS. Yes, ONE SINGLE harness goes from the driver side second connector to the passenger side second connector. The pin-out is straight forward. Pin 1 to pin 1 and so forth for all 16 pins. Pins 11, 12, 13, 14 are not used (again, assuming you're giving up the seat memory feature).
I used 18 gauge wires for this harness (bought a spool from Amazon). The harness length can be 8-10 ft depends on where you want to route it under carpet. Just don't route it where you would rest your feet or anywhere it can be stepped on. Target corners and folds. You get the idea.​
If you want to buy this harness, and don't want to go through making it from scratch, hit me up, I will ship you one for $300.
Once you make this harness, all the remaining wiring will involve the base connector in each seat.

Few facts:
  • the h/c module is located under the passenger seat, and gets its wiring (hot/ground/MS CAN+/MS CAN-) from the passenger seat base connector.
  • The base-model base connector will not have HOT/MS CAN+/MS CAN- fed to h/c module, so that's what we will be adding. Ground is already shared/wired.
  • Pin 1 in the base connector is HOT and goes to the power switch (already there). Pin 9 is the other HOT that is missing, that goes to the h/c module. I personally used the same power switch HOT (pin 1) to feed to pin 9 (spliced it). Yes, it is meant to feed the power switch only (30 Amps), but I think this is not a constant power load, and should be fine to share it with the h/c module, which needs 30 Amps too. That takes care of HOT.
  • For MS CAN +/MS CAN-, I fed these from the bezel connector (FCIM). Pin 17 in the FCIM connector is VDB06 (Gray) CAN + and pin 18 is VDB07 (Violet) is CAN-. Tab these two wires and feed to pins 12 and 13 on the connector/harness you made (the passenger side). See pic below.
Once you feed the hot/CAN+/CAN-, you will be able to test your build by turning h/c on/off. You will hear the relay in the h/c module clicks. That means your wiring is correct and you are done enabling h/c.

Treatable side effects:
  1. possibly the airbag light may illuminates after you connect the passenger seat. That's due to the occupancy classification sensor module (OCSM) may not be compatible between the base and premium seat. What I did, is switching the sensor between my base seat and the premium seat, and the light goes away. Don't cut the sensor tube, but replace the whole assembly - remove the seat cover and replace the whole sensor assembly (sensor+tube+pad). It is not as complicated to remove the cover as you might think.
  2. Wiring for premium seat (w/ memory) will not move on a base car, because power goes to the memory module then to the power switch, vs in base seats, power goes to the power switch directly. To fix this, tab the two power wires (hot/ground) going into the memory seat, with two power wires (hot/ground) going to the power switch. See pics below and wiring diagram PDF. This will not only make the seat move, but it will also make it slide back when you switch the car off, and slide forward when you turn car on (very cool feature to make going in/out of the car easier).
I included all wiring diagrams for everything. Ask if you have any questions.
20190926_170840.jpg
s-l500.jpg
Non-Memory Drivers Side Wiring Diagram.JPG
Premium Seat - Control Switch.JPG
Wiring-Diagram-Passenger-Seat-Climate.JPG
Connecting the HOT.jpg
data lines.jpg
SNAG-0632-1.jpg
SNAG-0632-1.jpg
View attachment 404259
20191018_145617.jpg
Driver Seat Fix.jpg
 
OP
OP

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I am new to this site and the information here is awesome. I have a set of leather 2018 Mustang GT seats that I would like to put n my 1965 Mustang. I am only interested in the movement of the seats and not in the heating and cooling. I need some help.

As i think I understand it the small connector is used for a seat to seat harness and is for the heating and cooling features....is this correct?

Also I will obviously need to supply power to the seats....its not clear to me how best to do this. I see the pin out definitions for each of the four functions but I am not sure how to connect them all to a 12V power source. Any thoughts on how best to proceed?

Thanks, guys.
Hi there. The power wires are pins 1 and 9 on the seat connector. The black/blue is ground, the violet/red is hot. That's all you need to make it move.
 

RustlesPal

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Hi there. The power wires are pins 1 and 9 on the seat connector. The black/blue is ground, the violet/red is hot. That's all you need to make it move.
Thank you....that is what I was going to try but was not sure. If I just connect pins 1&9 to 12 volts and pin 16 ( black / blue) to ground then, I should be good to go. Once I get my connector I will give it a whirl....although for three wires I could just have easily used a much smaller connector and done both sides I guess ( duh!).

If I wanted to use the seat cooling feature, assuming I also mount some sort of switch on the dash, any thoughts on how I might accomplish that? I don't need the heated feature.

Again, thanks for your guidance.
 


Kasavias

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@NC GTier thanks so much for this guide. I've had it bookmarked for quite a while now and finally had the opportunity to upgrade my seats.
 

Chawilo

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How do I get my airbag light to come if I went from base to premium
 

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After a little time and research, I can confirm that this mod can be completed in a 2019 mustang GT base. However, a lot has changed in a 2019 model. Thanks to my best friend and his incredible mechanical / electrical knowledge we made this work. I now have fully functional 2019 heated / cooled seats in my 2019 base GT. I can tell you that the wiring is different. The control module is now on the driver seat. We made the jumper cable as the OP described. Some of the wire colors are different. We did not tap into the wires behind the control panel for the can bus +/-. We found an unused test port plug directly above the OBD port. The plug is grey and just taped to the wire harness directly above the OBDport. That plug has can bus +/-. We were able to run the wires directly to that plug and did not have to cut or tap into any of those wires. If any 18+ owners have questions, feel free to reach out and I will try to help in anyway I can.
I don't have any pins on my 11-14 sockets on my seat connector. I have 2019 seats. What pins did you use for the ms+, ms- can for the heated seats?
 

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Anyone have a diagram for the 2018-2020 premium leather seats? I dont have wiring for the small pin connector 11-14 sockets. I'm assuming the 18+ wiring is slightly different
 

Luke17

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@NC GTier I have 2015 premium w/o memory. As far as I understand I will need Seat Memory Control Module, handle with bracket for 5 buttons switches assembly and the 5 buttons switches assembly itself. Do I need anything else? Some additional harness?
 
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Christang.GT

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Could this work with a 2015 with recaros wanting to install the premium H/C seats?????
 

Chriskent85

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I don't own a mustang but I am installing a set of 17 premium leather seats into my 69 bronco. This thread has helped me figure out the drivers seat issue. I figured I would return the favor for the guys trying to get the heated and cooled seats to work with aftermarket switches. I never thought when I bought the seats that I wouldn't be ae to wire the h/c to a regular switch. Long story short is I found an aftermarket kit that uses the same blower and h/c assembly. I know it might be a little expensive but katskinz leather makes a kit called degreez.
 

Chriskent85

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Depending on how you fell about removing the seat cover you could replace the blower assemblies with the new ones in the kit or if you felt comfortable figuring out the wiring in the motor assembly you could just tap I to those wires instead. I plan on figuring out wiring when my kit comes in.
 

nm_mustang

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Installed leather seats into my 2015 v6 about 6 months ago. Enabled heating and cooling using the info from this thread. My seats came with the memory module (DSM), so I finally completed this as well. Everything is working, but I'm getting two DTC's (C1B15-Sensor Supply Voltage-B-, and U2010 Switch Illumination). Is there any way to disable the side mirror memory function using Forscan. I can't find much information about DDM settings. Thanks again for the great information.
 

 
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