How much horsepower is the roush 2.3 capable of making?

[alphaillusion]

What mods / tune did you go with? Wanting to hit close to 700 rwhp. At the moment I have a corsa catback / phase 1 roush kit and the roush tune. Whats the fastest route to getting power without converting over to e85? Wondering what everyone is getting in their 1/4 mile times as well. Thanks!

Sponsored

 

[Burkey]

What mods / tune did you go with? Wanting to hit close to 700 rwhp. At the moment I have a corsa catback / phase 1 roush kit and the roush tune. Whats the fastest route to getting power without converting over to e85? Wondering what everyone is getting in their 1/4 mile times as well. Thanks!

A mate of mine went through all of this on his ‘16
He went with Lund tune for 93 (although our Aussie fuel is slightly below that)
DW400 pump, DW 95 injectors, long tubes, 3” exhaust, JLT intake, UPR catch can setup (both sides), dropped a pulley or two (I don’t recall the final size sorry).
He’s not a pro drag racer, went 10.6 @ 133 @ full weight on a set of drag radials.
I’ll let you do the math but the car went 126mph before all of this was done.

 

[Boduke0220]

With no E85 about 700 is all you can make on pump gas, so big throttle body and big cold air

 

[WhiteyDog]

Just like the guys said above, that may be a stretch to reach without E85 or race fuel so you will need to do a few things:

Get a tune from Lund, PBD, VMP, or another good tuning company.
Fuel pump booster.
Bigger injectors.
Colder spark plugs.
Bigger CAI system.
Bigger throttle body (VMP has some nice stuff).
Drop a few pulley sizes.
Headers would help.
Boostane can also help. (This stuff has been producing pretty good results for some guys if you use enough of it).
Bigger heat exchanger. (You're going to generate more heat).

Dropping to a 79mm pulley seems to be the maximum smallest size for 93 octane on these superchargers (although there is a forum member on here running a 75mm on 93). Smaller than 79mm you usually have to run E85 or race fuel.

 

[ugstang17]

Hit 631 with mine on 11psi (80mm pulley) a twin 67mm TB and 1050ID FI's on 93. A 76mm pulley and going E-85 should get you there with little problem IMHO. You're going to definitely consider a better H.E. VMP triple pass or Whipple OS are my opinion the two better choices out there. I have the Whipple waiting to go in and had the VMP triple pass on my 14. Just wanted to try a non fanned style this time around.

The VMP Gen3 2300 TVS housing swap -- if you can get them -- may be something to consider as well. Better flowing unit than the Roush. I'm only on Roush because the car came with it and was too good a deal to pass up. Otherwise I would be running a VMP 2650 or Whipple setup and spinning the unit slower for more efficient power than a 2300 displacement unit.

 

[Guard5.0]

I’m at a tick over 700whp. You can read my signature for mods. The only piece left from the Roush kit is the SC. I’ll be converting to E85 soon. Don’t really want any more power, just the safety margin it provides. I do run Torco and a 75mm pulley for my 93 VMP tune. Brenspeed ran a similar setup in their white Roush drag car into the 9’s but it was an auto set up to drag. I haven’t dragged mine but I would suspect 10.50-10.90’s in the low 130’s with good shifting. If you have access to E85 I would strongly consider going in that direction. When you get to around where I’m at and decide you need more your better tuners will likely require it.

 

[alphaillusion]

Just like the guys said above, that may be a stretch to reach without E85 or race fuel so you will need to do a few things:

Get a tune from Lund, PBD, VMP, or another good tuning company.
Fuel pump booster.
Bigger injectors.
Colder spark plugs.
Bigger CAI system.
Bigger throttle body (VMP has some nice stuff).
Drop a few pulley sizes.
Headers would help.
Boostane can also help. (This stuff has been producing pretty good results for some guys if you use enough of it).
Bigger heat exchanger. (You're going to generate more heat).

Dropping to a 79mm pulley seems to be the maximum smallest size for 93 octane on these superchargers (although there is a forum member on here running a 75mm on 93). Smaller than 79mm you usually have to run E85 or race fuel.

Which size throttle body / CAI / Spark plug / Injectors / heat exchange would you reccomend? Which order would you prioritize these in as far as upgrade order.

Thanks!

 

[WhiteyDog]

Sorry @Guard5.0, as I said in my earlier post I knew someone was running a 75mm on 93, I just forgot who it was.

 

[WhiteyDog]

Which size throttle body / CAI / Spark plug / Injectors / heat exchange would you reccomend? Which order would you prioritize these in as far as upgrade order.

Thanks!

Well for starters, look at the mods at the bottom of some member's posts, that'll give you some ideas. TB - VMP has a Twin Jet 69mm TB unless you want to go with something bigger in a monoblade. I heard the big monoblades can be touchy on the street sometimes, but maybe someone with one will chime in. CAI - more air the better. JLT and PMAS are bigger than the 110mm Roush. Spark plugs - a step colder than you have now, NGK or Brisk. Injectors - I would guess at least 72lb, but 95lb Deatschwerks or Injector Dynamics 1050X's will also do very well. Heat exchanger - As was already mentioned by @ugstang17, the Whipple oversized or the VMP triple pass are the main available choices right now I believe. VMP is made to fit the Roush system. With the Whipple you will need to get some different fittings and work a little because it's not specifically made for our Roushs. You WILL need to get one of these if you're chasing 700rwhp. Whatever tuner you go with they will have recommendations on what brands they like to tune with and what order.

 

[hossman]

I’m at 680hp/545tq to the wheel on 93 with my Roush 2300

17 Mustang GT Manual w/3.55 gears
- Roush 2300 Blower
- 79mm Pulley
- Fuel Pump Voltages Regulator(aka BAP)
- FIC1000 Injectors
- PMAS 120mm Intake
- VMP Twin 67mm Throttle Body
- Reische 170 Degree Thermostat
- VMP Dual Fan Triple Pass Heat Exchanger
- NGK 6510 Plugs(gapped @ .028)
- VMP Tune
- HP Tuners Ngauge

 

[ugstang17]

If hunting a dyno number also keep in mind that a number put down through a 6R80 is not going to be the same number as a number put down by a MT-82. There is no actual 1:1 gear in a 6R80. Fourth is the closest. There is a little more loss through the auto trans over the manual as well. I learned this when I swapped my blower setup over from a 13 stick shift to a 14 auto, retuned with the very same tuner and had a number compare on the very same dyno. While air may have been slightly different -- not to mention a likely slight variation on power from engine to engine -- the difference between the two cars was 568RWHP on the 13 compared to 529RWHP on the 14 auto. You are likely to get much closer to your goal on a hot dyno with a stick shift car if the number is all you seek.

As for TB - it depends on what you want to do with the car. It is my opinion that the twin 60 (stock on the GT500's 07-14) is the most street friendly. The twin 67mm on my setup -- according to Lund -- adds roughly 25RWHP over the stock twin 60 that came on the Roush package based on my 80mm pulley. Any time you go larger on a TB the drive ability is prone to suffering. Here is why........

What many novices/hobbyists fail to understand is that in a valve application, which is what a TB is, most of the flow is controlled in the first 30-50% of the TB stroke range. That means given that a TB which normally rotates between 2% (idle) and 85% (WOT) the majority of the flow control is in the first 2% to 45% throttle position. Nor is the flow linear meaning that 10% open doesn't equate to 10% of max flow. Graphed out it would be a mathematical slope (curve). When TB diameter increases it does so exponentially. Remember the area of a circle is PI x radius squared. This means that with the same exact stroke range the TB now has to control at a much stricter movement range which as the TB gets larger becomes less manageable to control. That is not to say it can't be managed and made street friendly up to a level, but it will take patience to do so. At some point the TB will become simply an on off switch because the size to stroke ratio is no longer able to be controlled without having hunting and surging. IF I am talking beneath you meaning you are already understanding of this don't take it personal as there may be others reading that can learn from this as well.

It's all about what you want. You can easily attain your goal with the FRPP GT500 twin 65mm TB or the VMP twin 67mm TB.

Your CAI may also get you there. While the JLT125mm CAI I am running flows more, Lund again tells me that putting the Roush box back on would cost me little as compared to the TB swap from the current T67 back to the T60 however IAT temps would be more manageable and again this is at the 10-11psi or 80mm pulley level. Obviously at some point in the boost range restrictions are going to inhibit air flow and induce more heat the HE has to remove. Where that point is as to when to go from the Roush 110mm CAI to say the JLT 125mm open air I do not know. I am playing around with simply putting the Roush air box back on my setup and retuning to that box for lower IAT temps in traffic and slower movement just to see what the result would be. I know on my 14 when I pulled the air box that came with the Roush phase 1 kit for the model and went to a JLT123mm intake (still on a T60 TB on that setup) the improvement was only 4 RWHP before and after compare (on the same dyno). Thankfully I bought the unit used so I was not out that much.

Hope this helps. Certain there will be others who have different results, but you can be assured all of my results have been on the same dyno each time at the same place so there is some consistency in them on compare. Again a dyno is a tool for a before after comparison. a car will vary in number from dyno jet to dyno jet and even moreso from a Muastng dyno to a Dyno jet. The real test in the end is what does the car do with that umber at the track. Does it fall on its face or make efficient use of the power available.

 

[94Mustang302ci]

I'm in the same boat as the OP. I'm looking to make 675rwhp after adding a few mods to my original dyno.
I'm currently making 648rwhp/544rwtq
Roush Phase II
BBK Longtube headers
Flowmaster 2.5 H-pipe with welded in Flowmaster Mufflers ( Now Have 3 in Corse Extremes cat back with x-pipe)
Stock Roush CAI ( will be adding JLT)
SCT X-4 (custom tuned but not sure by who)
My timing I think is set at 15 degrees at WOT on the SCT4

Once the JLT and possibly dw95s are installed I'll hit the dyno. Again my goal is only 675rwhp. I don't plan on running e85, just pump 93 with a decent tune and Boostane added after the fact for safety. At some point I'll add cooling mods too.

 

[hossman]

Boostane works well. I run about 1-2 ounces every fill up of 93 for safety and make sure I always got good quality octane. I also have a 100 octane tune when I want to turn it up and is good for additional 20-40 hp.

 

[ROUSHCHARGEDS550]

If hunting a dyno number also keep in mind that a number put down through a 6R80 is not going to be the same number as a number put down by a MT-82. There is no actual 1:1 gear in a 6R80. Fourth is the closest. There is a little more loss through the auto trans over the manual as well. I learned this when I swapped my blower setup over from a 13 stick shift to a 14 auto, retuned with the very same tuner and had a number compare on the very same dyno. While air may have been slightly different -- not to mention a likely slight variation on power from engine to engine -- the difference between the two cars was 568RWHP on the 13 compared to 529RWHP on the 14 auto. You are likely to get much closer to your goal on a hot dyno with a stick shift car if the number is all you seek.

As for TB - it depends on what you want to do with the car. It is my opinion that the twin 60 (stock on the GT500's 07-14) is the most street friendly. The twin 67mm on my setup -- according to Lund -- adds roughly 25RWHP over the stock twin 60 that came on the Roush package based on my 80mm pulley. Any time you go larger on a TB the drive ability is prone to suffering. Here is why........

What many novices/hobbyists fail to understand is that in a valve application, which is what a TB is, most of the flow is controlled in the first 30-50% of the TB stroke range. That means given that a TB which normally rotates between 2% (idle) and 85% (WOT) the majority of the flow control is in the first 2% to 45% throttle position. Nor is the flow linear meaning that 10% open doesn't equate to 10% of max flow. Graphed out it would be a mathematical slope (curve). When TB diameter increases it does so exponentially. Remember the area of a circle is PI x radius squared. This means that with the same exact stroke range the TB now has to control at a much stricter movement range which as the TB gets larger becomes less manageable to control. That is not to say it can't be managed and made street friendly up to a level, but it will take patience to do so. At some point the TB will become simply an on off switch because the size to stroke ratio is no longer able to be controlled without having hunting and surging. IF I am talking beneath you meaning you are already understanding of this don't take it personal as there may be others reading that can learn from this as well.

It's all about what you want. You can easily attain your goal with the FRPP GT500 twin 65mm TB or the VMP twin 67mm TB.

Your CAI may also get you there. While the JLT125mm CAI I am running flows more, Lund again tells me that putting the Roush box back on would cost me little as compared to the TB swap from the current T67 back to the T60 however IAT temps would be more manageable and again this is at the 10-11psi or 80mm pulley level. Obviously at some point in the boost range restrictions are going to inhibit air flow and induce more heat the HE has to remove. Where that point is as to when to go from the Roush 110mm CAI to say the JLT 125mm open air I do not know. I am playing around with simply putting the Roush air box back on my setup and retuning to that box for lower IAT temps in traffic and slower movement just to see what the result would be. I know on my 14 when I pulled the air box that came with the Roush phase 1 kit for the model and went to a JLT123mm intake (still on a T60 TB on that setup) the improvement was only 4 RWHP before and after compare (on the same dyno). Thankfully I bought the unit used so I was not out that much.

Hope this helps. Certain there will be others who have different results, but you can be assured all of my results have been on the same dyno each time at the same place so there is some consistency in them on compare. Again a dyno is a tool for a before after comparison. a car will vary in number from dyno jet to dyno jet and even moreso from a Muastng dyno to a Dyno jet. The real test in the end is what does the car do with that umber at the track. Does it fall on its face or make efficient use of the power available.

Hey I was just reading your post on this I have a 15 GTPP manual with Roush kit,I'm having some tuning issues myself the car has always had surging at low RPM on highway, it's had the 79mm upper and HE with fans, IAT harness of course for a while,..just installed 67mm tb, 1050ix inj, JLT cai, VMP bap, and installed RST clutch, lightened flywheel and 4" DSS, I think it's in the tune.. I really don't care what the dyno says but I would expect more power obviously, i just wanted to ask do you have surging and crazy idle or did it need to be data logged a bunch to dial it in.. and I agree with the intake stuff its only helps at high horsepower stuff.. if it was up to me I would dyno the cat with the hood closed to get real numbers.. just wondering if you think it's in the tune as I do.. I've checked everything else

 

[ROUSHCHARGEDS550]

Hey I was just reading your post on this I have a 15 GTPP manual with Roush kit,I'm having some tuning issues myself the car has always had surging at low RPM on highway, it's had the 79mm upper and HE with fans, IAT harness of course for a while,..just installed 67mm tb, 1050ix inj, JLT cai, VMP bap, and installed RST clutch, lightened flywheel and 4" DSS, I think it's in the tune.. I really don't care what the dyno says but I would expect more power obviously, i just wanted to ask do you have surging and crazy idle or did it need to be data logged a bunch to dial it in.. and I agree with the intake stuff its only helps at high horsepower stuff.. if it was up to me I would dyno the cat with the hood closed to get real numbers.. just wondering if you think it's in the tune as I do.. I've checked everything else

The car made 611 wheel on stock roush set-up, it was on dyno jet and it was 95 ambient with about 80 percent humidity.. haven't dynoed it yet with this set-up but it made 624 wheel before we started dialing it in.. never finished ran out of time going back on the dyno in October to finish it...

Sponsored