Leviathan_5.0
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2017
- Threads
- 8
- Messages
- 31
- Reaction score
- 28
- Location
- Central Florida
- First Name
- Coyote Chris
- Vehicle(s)
- Guard Metallic 2016 Mustang GT Prem w/Perf. Pack
- Thread starter
- #1
For those that dont know, I drive a Guard Metallic Green 2016 Mustang GT Premium w/ the Performance Pack. The 15-17 Mustang GT's come from the factory with a power output of 435/400. After doing some research on the Gen. 2 Coyote and speaking with a Ford Mustang specialist, found that the stock gen. 2 coyote motor is capable of handling approx. 600-650 RWHP or 700-750 HP at the crank.
The general consensus is if you want to hit 600-650 WHP numbers reliably and still have a Daily Driver, then you need to be prepared to spend approx. $10,000. I can tell you that is NOT the case. I was able to achieve those power numbers reliably for less than half that cost using reputable products from reputable companies that almost everyone in the Mustang world is familiar with. I will say though that to hit those power numbers reliably at half the cost, you will have to do almost all the work/installations yourself.
Personally, I chose to do everything myself for several reasons. It allowed me to learn something new that I didn't know before, it strengthened the bond I have with my Mustang, and that feeling of pride that I have everytime I complete a successful install. You just don't get that that feeling of pride when you pay a shop to do everything.
I believe Leviathan is truly unique in that there's no other Mustang on the planet thats spec'd like she is. I chose every single, and installed every single modification myself.
Below is Leviathans chronological list of modifications she's recieved over the course of 1 year:
1.) Custom Exhaust- $500
**X Pipe, Cat-Delete, Muffler Delete w/ 4.5" Classic Chrome tips**
2.) Airaid CAI- $100
3.) SCT-X4 Tuner- $399
4.) Custom tunes by Luis Ortiz-$327
**N/A Race Gas, E85, 93, Flex Fuel, Ghost Cam**
5.) CJ Pony Parts Raked Lowering Springs-$200
6.) Gen. 3 Coyote Intake Manifold- $330
7.) Ford Performance 47 lb. Fuel Injectors- $285
8.) Nitrous Outlet X-Series Wet System-$450
9.) Nitrous Outlet Purge kit-$125
10.) Nitrous 10 lb. Tank Heater/Pressure Gauge-$85
11.) Ford Performance Colder Spark Plugs- $50
12.) RPM Activated Window Switch- $60
_________________________________________
TOTAL COST: $2,911.00
The 2 modifications that made the most difference in terms of power output was, of course, the Nitrous Outlet System followed by the Gen. 3 Coyote Manifold that I ported myself.
Regarding the Nitrous System, and Nitrous in general, there's a HUGE misconception that Nitrous blows up motors and Forced Induction is safer than Nitrous. I believe this is 100% completely FALSE!!! People, and their stupidity are the ones that kill their engines, usually because they don't use the right spark plugs, they don't tune the car properly leading to pre-ignition/detonation, they spray below 3500 rpm's, and they spray way more nitrous than the car is designed to handle. burning down a piston or pops a ring is most often a direct result of the people spraying way more nitrous than they should. And they're doing it because, most of the time, it's much easier to increase HP output on a nitrous setup than it is on a boosted application. Most Nitrous kits come with jettings that go as high as 250 HP even though a 150 shot jetting is the most you wanna spray on a stock 15-17 motor. But you get these people that feel the instant torque that a 150 shot brings, so they're itching to throw in the 200 shot or even the 250 shot, especially when all their buddies are in their ear telling you to "Fuckin Send It!" which is a shame because Nitrous has been, and likely will always be, the "Best Bang 4 Your Buck" Power-Adder that is being utilized less and less because people fear they're going to become the next internet mustang meme and grenade their motors.
Do your diligence, do your homework, take all the proper precautions necessary, and purchasing/install all necessary safety features. Do these things and you'll run nitrous safely for a very, very long time.
Before I even thought about spraying I bought all the safety hardware need to run nitrous safely and I started out spraying a 100 shot. I stayed with a 100 shot until I had gone through several tanks and had several consistent, healthy datalogs.
Because I'm running E85, the knock sensors were extremely happy with the car adding 7-9° timing. So i decided to increase the jetting to a 150 shot. A 150 shot is the highest you want to go on a stock motor unless you dont mind killing pistons. I did have to pull approx. 2-4° timing for the bigger 150 shot and I installed a longer line going from the Nitrous solenoid to the nozzle because of the huge difference between the Nitrous pressure and the fuel pressure. Nitrous pressure is 950 psi, and fuel is 55 psi meaning the nitrous pressure is approx. 20x the fuel pressure. As a result the nitrous would reach the nozzle a fraction of a second faster than the fuel which was causing a lean spike. Supposedly its not a danger to the motor but, personally, I like everything to be as safe as possible. By adding a couple extra feet of line to the nitrous side, the nitrous and fuel now reach the nozzle as the same time, getting rid of the lean spike. Also, the jetting sizes on the fuel side are different for E85 than it is for 93. You dont want to get the jettings sizes wrong for obvious reasons, so always triple check the jettings to make sure they're the right size for your application and fuel pressure.
As long as your willing to do the majority of the work yourself, it is possible to achieve your power goals without it costing an arm and a leg which allows you to stay competitive and leaves you more $ to put towards other modifications such as suspension components, a fuel system, or even a Forced Induction kit later on.
A couple of the most common questions I'm asked are:
-Do I need a BAP to run E85 and Nitrous on a 15-17 Mustang GT? No the 15-17's fuel system can handle up to 150 shot on E85, but you do need to upgrade to 47 lb. fuel injectors minimum.
- What rev. range do I run on Nitrous? 3500-7200 rpm's
-Why didn't I go with a plate system? Because I have the nozzle spraying directly into the intake manifold which promotes better air flow
-Do you have to use a window switch? YES. It eliminates human error and is one less thing to worry about when racing.
-What about the "Fast and Furious" pushbutton? Absolutely not
-Why didn't I get a Cobra Jet Intake Manifold? Because the Gen.3 Coyote Intake Manifold is $1500 less, and makes the same power and more torque making it the "Bang 4 your Buck" Intake Manifold on the market. The Cobra Jet Intake Manifold out powers the Gen. 3 Coyote manifold by 12 hp for a 500 rpm range. The Cobra Jet is the king of Intake Manifolds by 12 hp across a 500 rpm range which, in my opinion, isn't worth the additional $1500.
Follow me on Instragram @Laviathan_5.0
If you're interested in getting a custom tune, please don't hesitate to ask.
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