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How good is Royal Purple Oil?

BombZombie

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BombZombie

You need to get out of your snow cave.
I agree....I was hoping the cabin fever wasn't so obvious yet 😬

But for real, Royal Purple is fine. Pricier than most off-the-shelf stuff, but I've used it in my work Explorer for years with no issue.
 
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JetGray_Mach1

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You’re 100% right regarding well know oils meeting specs but i don’t get the “blend” part.
you pay more for no credible advantages over “regular “ oil. On top of that there is no minimum legal percentage of synthetic required to be able to call it “Synthetic blend”
You could have 99% regular and 1% synthetic in it
Furthermore the main advantage of synthetic is it’s resistance to high temperatures.
if 80 or 90% of your oil cannot resist high temperature, doesn’t matter if the other 10 or 20% can
“Blend” is nothing more than a great marketing snow job
It is what is recommended. Synthetic blend is fine, and how on earth do you call $25 for 5 quarts "expensive."

I guess if your are doing some crazy track driving you should get Fully synthetic. I have the track ready Handling Pack Mach 1 and says synthetic blend is fine. So no reason to be spinning our wheels.

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luc

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It is what is recommended. Synthetic blend is fine, and how on earth do you call $25 for 5 quarts "expensive."

I guess if your are doing some crazy track driving you should get Fully synthetic. I have the track ready Handling Pack Mach 1 and says synthetic blend is fine. So no reason to be spinning our wheels.

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I didn’t say “expensive “ , i said that you pay “more” ( than regular) for no tangible benefits
If course it’s fine, so would be regular oil
You’re getting none of the advantages of full synthetic so basically you’re paying more for an oil that has the same properties than a good regular oil
It’s why i call it a marketing scam. But yes, that oil is totally fine for your car
 

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JetGray_Mach1

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I didn’t say “expensive “ , i said that you pay “more” ( than regular) for no tangible benefits
If course it’s fine, so would be regular oil
Whats regular, like Penzoil junk? lol either way I know you got beef with syntheic blend, and thats ok.
 

ice445

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I've become a Valvoline convert. Extended Protection has a really high moly count which seems like a good thing for an engine with so many moving parts. Oil analysis came back really good.
 

GregO

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Full Synthetic motor oil is a fairy tale. Every motor oil available to consumers is a blend of several oil groups, III, III+, IV,V and maybe even a splash of II+
It takes a blend of several groups to make modern oil magic happen. How that magic happens I have no idea, that's the job of professional Tribologist dedicated to figuring out formulas at the OEM and oil blender level.
Don't think for a minute the refiners are figuring out the blends. It's the OEM's running the motors ragged for months down in Grandpa’s Lab formulating the oil that is then submitted to Big Oil refiners that blend up batches of Grandpa Munster's Secret Rocket Sauce.

Boutique oils are like Tuners, they take all the hard work the OEM's developed and sprinkle some Pixie Dust on it then gift wrap it for consumers.
 
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MrBD1348

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It is what is recommended. Synthetic blend is fine, and how on earth do you call $25 for 5 quarts "expensive."

I guess if your are doing some crazy track driving you should get Fully synthetic. I have the track ready Handling Pack Mach 1 and says synthetic blend is fine. So no reason to be spinning our wheels.

1707270912331.png
if you read further in the manual you’ll see that track driving is recommended full synthetic and a change to 5w50. I use motorcraft 5w50 a majority of the time and change after 1 or 2 track days even if milage only increased by 1000-1500
 

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Paul McWhiskey

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Full Synthetic motor oil is a fairy tale. Every motor oil available to consumers is a blend of several oil groups, III, III+, IV,V and maybe even a splash of II+
It takes a blend of several groups to make modern oil magic happen. How that magic happens I'm clueless, that's the job of professional Tribologist dedicated to figuring out formulas at the OEM and oil blender level.
Don't think for a minute the refiners are figuring out the blends. It's the OEM's running the motors ragged for months down in Grandpa Lab formulating the oil that is then submitted to Big Oil refiners that blend up batches of Grandpa Munster's Secret Rocket Sauce.

Boutique oils are like Tuners, they take all the hard work the OEM's developed and sprinkle some Pixie Dust on it then gift wrap it for consumers.

What GregO said. And what Luc said.

Spent 17 years in the business. Synblend is nothing more than a way to charge a bit more for a product that has a little bit of Syn oil added. Otherwise it would not meet spec.

Full Syn may not be 100% synthetic oil, either.

Motorcraft, when I left the business 4.5 years ago, was filled by ConocoPhillips. Remember, manufacturer creates a spec. Interested producers bid for the business. Most likely the lowest bidder gets the contract. I have no idea who is filling Motorcraft bottles today.

I have said before, oil is like whiskey. Everyone is an expert on the subject and there are no experts, right? My recommendation is for you to run what you believe makes your engine make the most power, reduces wear to zero, and gives you shivers when you think about it. Fact is, if they all meet the same spec, there is probably not a lot of difference (might be some, but not a lot) between them. The cost of formulating engine oils and additives is so high that almost none of the producers see an advantage in creating a super high performance product. If it doesn’t make a lot of money they just aren’t interested. So they leave it up to the marketing and sales people to create the perception of added performance.

So, my be all end all brand? It’s the one you buy and pour into your crankcase.
 

Skye

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- Consistently follow the prescribed maintenance schedule with products that meet or exceed the manufacturer's guidelines. It's also a good idea to perform regular under hood fluid checks and visual inspections, under hood and underneath the car. Visually inspect the tires and check tire pressure with a manual gauge as part of that routine

- Long-term, I don't feel it's a good idea to regularly be changing the oil brand or type, selecting "whatever's on sale" or something of the sort. Yes, changing brands over the years is OK. But a lot goes into the design and engineering of an engine oil. An oil analysis can highlight each of the different elements which might be used in varying amounts of a maker's product. It takes two to three oil changes to fully "flush" one oil from an engine when transitioning to anew

- Seems to be a good time to review your oil filter as well. I did some deep dives on the "Orange cans of death" (Fram) filters last year and discovered that oil filter manufacturers update and change their products over time. Some of those changes are good. Others not. If you're using a particular brand today, Google, "Brand name oil filter review and comparison", or something like that. Several forums and YouTube channels should have something for you

- I wouldn't deviate from the prescribed weight of oil, unless there have been changes to the car's engine (mods), its operation (racing more and more) or the Owners Manual offers it as an option. The weight or viscosity of an oil measures shearing forces and resistance to flow at a given temperature. From our perspective, it's how "clingy" the oil is to reciprocating parts and how quickly it circulates when hot or cold. The viscosity index is not linear; it's logarithmic. Deviating from the manufacturer's recommendations for no reason, is not something I don't feel is a good idea
 
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FreePenguin

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amsoil signature here, I use it in everything, but I do extended oil changes. 15k and it runs better than it ever did on older cheaper synthetics. I ran my EcoBoost 15k miles on oil change with ford perf tune, and did analysis and the oil came back with healthy results and plenty of TBN to keep on going. but the filter is the issue, needs changed at 15k

so that said, I just do 15k oil changes in all my vehicles now, im at 205k on my current DD and been doing the 15k since 90k miles w amsoil signature. I feel like it runs way better than it did in its early years with cheaper synthetics too

by all means its not a sports car, but its my daily and I trust it. it could probably run on piss though as its Toyota.


one thing that is nice though is I order everything I need for a year, like vehicles, motorcycles, mowers, generators, etc its $$$ all at once but I have everything I need delivered to my door. and its pretty much on par w other oils if you are amsoil member. (I paid for 15 years at once a long while ago) like 150 bucks.
 

JetGray_Mach1

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ONLY 3 things matter. Using oil that meets or exceeds manufacturer recommendation(depending on application), changing oil on time and NOT running low on oil. The rest is internet noise.
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