How do I go about getting the steeda camber plate w/ progressive springs having magneride (2022 Pp1)

[adonis5.0]

I daily this car and plan on driving it spirited along with taking it to the track every other month. I have not got a set of wheels yet so I still have my PP1 wheels. After I install the parts should I leave as is until I get a new set of wheels? or should I get an alignment that sets me up for a bigger wheel setup. Also, how do I go about telling them what specifications I want when I go in to get in alignment? sorry im probably overthinking this but I want to do it right the first time.

Also, if anybody is selling magneride lowering springs or camber plates, plz lmk before I purchase them at the end of the month!

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[NightmareMoon]

If you arent doing anything too funny you can get the alignment right after or at the same time the suspension parts go on. No real need to wait for the new wheels, but you didn’t say what wheels and tires so it’s hard to give better advice.

i’d reconsider the progressive springs if you’re going to be tracking that much. There are better options.

A good shop will align the car to your specs (pretty close anyway). A poor shop or a dealership will only get it factory green zone specs.

 

[kz]

I daily this car and plan on driving it spirited along with taking it to the track every other month. I have not got a set of wheels yet so I still have my PP1 wheels. After I install the parts should I leave as is until I get a new set of wheels? or should I get an alignment that sets me up for a bigger wheel setup. Also, how do I go about telling them what specifications I want when I go in to get in alignment? sorry im probably overthinking this but I want to do it right the first time.

Also, if anybody is selling magneride lowering springs or camber plates, plz lmk before I purchase them at the end of the month!

You definitely should not leave things as is after installing the springs and the plates - camber will land at some random place and toe on McStrut changes with camber.

Tires/wheels have nothing to do with alignment (other than ride height) so no reason to wait. Find the shop that asks what alignment you want - you need one that is little better than average anyway since you will have aftermarket parts affecting alignment adjustment and all regular shops do is look up the manual (which says nothing about camber plates).

 

[adonis5.0]

You definitely should not leave things as is after installing the springs and the plates - camber will land at some random place and toe on McStrut changes with camber.

Tires/wheels have nothing to do with alignment (other than ride height) so no reason to wait. Find the shop that asks what alignment you want - you need one that is little better than average anyway since you will have aftermarket parts affecting alignment adjustment and all regular shops do is look up the manual (which says nothing about camber plates).

Thanks for yhe

If you arent doing anything too funny you can get the alignment right after or at the same time the suspension parts go on. No real need to wait for the new wheels, but you didn’t say what wheels and tires so it’s hard to give better advice.

i’d reconsider the progressive springs if you’re going to be tracking that much. There are better options.

A good shop will align the car to your specs (pretty close anyway). A poor shop or a dealership will only get it factory green zone specs.

im still debating between staggered or square set up. I'm trying to keep my car an all around car. So it's really between a 19x10/11 staggered or 19x11 square setup. I'll probably just go with the staggered for now until I buy the ford performance front hubs. I'll most likely end up getting two sets eventually.

 

[adonis5.0]

You definitely should not leave things as is after installing the springs and the plates - camber will land at some random place and toe on McStrut changes with camber.

Tires/wheels have nothing to do with alignment (other than ride height) so no reason to wait. Find the shop that asks what alignment you want - you need one that is little better than average anyway since you will have aftermarket parts affecting alignment adjustment and all regular shops do is look up the manual (which says nothing about camber plates).

Yeah I figured, just wanted to be sure. I may just ask for the pp2 alignment if I decide to run a big tire up front. You think that's fine ?

 

[kz]

Yeah I figured, just wanted to be sure. I may just ask for the pp2 alignment if I decide to run a big tire up front. You think that's fine ?

It's fine - whatever your goals are. It's not particularly track oriented though - very moderate front camber from what I remember.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yeah I figured, just wanted to be sure. I may just ask for the pp2 alignment if I decide to run a big tire up front. You think that's fine ?

honestly I'd go with a lot more camber than the PP1 ford specs, which are very conservative.

 

[adonis5.0]

honestly I'd go with a lot more camber than the PP1 ford specs, which are very conservative.

PP2 ford I think is a 1.15 negative camber and a toe is 0.15. They run 305s all around as well.

 

[adonis5.0]

It's fine - whatever your goals are. It's not particularly track oriented though - very moderate front camber from what I remember.

Yeah I'm looking and it says -1.15 degrees. Im seeing a lot of people run 19x11 squared with ford performance hubs with 25mm spacer on -3 degree camber. I'll probably just watch a bit of YouTube to see what others are running.

 

[NightmareMoon]

3 degrees is great for 11" wide tires and track time. Its a bit darty on the highway, but that's how much you need to just start to even out tire wear at the track.

1.15 or even 1.5 won't even get those 11" front wheels to tuck under the fenders. Look at any pictures of a PP2 to see how much poke they have, and those are just 10.5" fronts.

For a middle ground, try 2.4-2.5 front and like 1.8 rear.

The ford specs for toe are just fine (zero front, 0.15 per side toe in rear)

 

[adonis5.0]

3 degrees is great for 11" wide tires and track time. Its a bit darty on the highway, but that's how much you need to just start to even out tire wear at the track.

1.15 or even 1.5 won't even get those 11" front wheels to tuck under the fenders. Look at any pictures of a PP2 to see how much poke they have, and those are just 10.5" fronts.

For a middle ground, try 2.4-2.5 front and like 1.8 rear.

The ford specs for toe are just fine (zero front, 0.15 per side toe in rear)

Thank you I'll try those specs out.

 

[Bossdog]

Don’t forget, if you lower more than 1/2 inch, you’ll likely need the Steeda roll center and bump steer adjustment kit.

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