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How did you break in your gt350

Zitrosounds

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I have a question about the brake in METHOD! As a new GT350 owner, that looks forward to the delivery, I've read in parts of the net that there are basically 2 methods of engine brake-in:

NO 1: THE ORTHODOX WAY: As per manual.
NO 2: THE UNORTHODOX WAY: Drive it as you stole it from the get go (as low miles as possible). Meaning that after the complete engine warmup, do a couple of hard revs at different speeds, in order to force the sealing of certain parts in the engine :O Dunno if this is a myth or not, but I don't know if I could allow myself to mistreat the new car like that. Some even swear by this method as they say, this way will seal up lots of internals and minimise oil consumption in the future and 2 some even say the engine generates more powe afterwards compared to the classical method. Some even posted dyno charts of same cars broken in differently on the same dynos, and apparently there was a difference there (subtle but true).

So what do you guys think?
Its easy!!! FOLLOW THE MANUAL!!!! It tells you to drive the car through its RPM range which achieves what you mention. Just do not do extended periods of WOT under 1kmiles and under the required temps.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3113/how-to-break-in-a-new-car/
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I have a question about the brake in METHOD! As a new GT350 owner, that looks forward to the delivery, I've read in parts of the net that there are basically 2 methods of engine brake-in:

NO 1: THE ORTHODOX WAY: As per manual.
NO 2: THE UNORTHODOX WAY: Drive it as you stole it from the get go (as low miles as possible). Meaning that after the complete engine warmup, do a couple of hard revs at different speeds, in order to force the sealing of certain parts in the engine :O Dunno if this is a myth or not, but I don't know if I could allow myself to mistreat the new car like that. Some even swear by this method as they say, this way will seal up lots of internals and minimise oil consumption in the future and 2 some even say the engine generates more powe afterwards compared to the classical method. Some even posted dyno charts of same cars broken in differently on the same dynos, and apparently there was a difference there (subtle but true).

So what do you guys think?
I took my car out to autocross at 200 miles. I haven't had to add a drop of oil after a track day, probably close to 100 autocross runs, and DD'ing. My catch can has caught about 2 oz of oil.
 

Hack

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I have a question about the brake in METHOD! As a new GT350 owner, that looks forward to the delivery, I've read in parts of the net that there are basically 2 methods of engine brake-in:

NO 1: THE ORTHODOX WAY: As per manual.
NO 2: THE UNORTHODOX WAY: Drive it as you stole it from the get go (as low miles as possible). Meaning that after the complete engine warmup, do a couple of hard revs at different speeds, in order to force the sealing of certain parts in the engine :O Dunno if this is a myth or not, but I don't know if I could allow myself to mistreat the new car like that. Some even swear by this method as they say, this way will seal up lots of internals and minimise oil consumption in the future and 2 some even say the engine generates more powe afterwards compared to the classical method. Some even posted dyno charts of same cars broken in differently on the same dynos, and apparently there was a difference there (subtle but true).

So what do you guys think?
My opinion is that the manual isn't specific enough to make numbers 1 and 2 different.

I did lots of full and zero throttle during break in. I believe the worst thing you can do during initial break in is to baby the engine with all light/partial throttle use. I did avoid high RPMs over ~6,000 during the first thousand miles and I warmed up the engine by driving the car normally prior to the full/no throttle treatment I mentioned above. I also worked exceptionally hard to not lug the engine which to me means stepping on it when RPMs are below 3,000, especially in 3rd-6th gears.
 

machsmith

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facing the right as in towards the driver?
Yes, the stamped side to the right vs the left when facing the front of the car, that gives what I think is the correct reading. Why would there be two dramatic differences? Never had that show up on any of my other cars. Didn't matter if it was up down, left right, where ever, it was always the same.
 
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Yes, the stamped side to the right vs the left when facing the front of the car, that gives what I think is the correct reading. Why would there be two dramatic differences? Never had that show up on any of my other cars. Didn't matter if it was up down, left right, where ever, it was always the same.
I see this same variations on many other vehicles. Once you change the oil and add the correct amount (10 quarts) I'd make a mental note or mark it. I always do the oil change and add the oil, fill the oil filter on vehicles that have a vertical mounted oil filter then start the engine for a few minutes then check it 15-20 minutes after shut down. Note the one side.
 

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machsmith

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Scott, I've only has one change done on this car and the FP tech did it so I'd have it recorded by them, otherwise I wouldn't let them touch it. I even saved the first filter just in case. He filled it so it was level with one line, but way over when the dipstick is flipped. When I change next time, I'll make sure it's centered when flipped and then record that.
 

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I usually drive to the gym and test it after I work out. Its an area I know is flat. Im not a big fan of burning my self on exhausts I have a few scars for that.

My driveway is sloped so I cant do it at home.
 
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One person on this thread (zitrosounds) has posted that he had his engine replaced. Due to a failed cam phaser possibly. 1 out of 32 members. Maybe the other 4 or so will chime in.
 

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My opinion is that the manual isn't specific enough to make numbers 1 and 2 different.

I did lots of full and zero throttle during break in. I believe the worst thing you can do during initial break in is to baby the engine with all light/partial throttle use. I did avoid high RPMs over ~6,000 during the first thousand miles and I warmed up the engine by driving the car normally prior to the full/no throttle treatment I mentioned above. I also worked exceptionally hard to not lug the engine which to me means stepping on it when RPMs are below 3,000, especially in 3rd-6th gears.
Thanks for the advice. I think this is the best way to do the brake-in. Sounds too logic to be wrong.
 

Houston Kid

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1) How many miles before first oil change? Sitting on 650 now. No oil change yet.
2) How many miles before racing? Not tracked yet.
3) How many miles before dyno? N/A
4) How many miles before taking the RPM to 8250? Accidentally once at 600 miles on a rather aggressive launch. Immediately back off.
5) Have you ever reved the engine before reaching operating temps? No, nothing over 7800 except as stated above. Once I get to 1000, then game on but only after fully warmed up.
6) Have you used less than 91-93 octane fuel? 93 only.
7) Stock or modified? Stock
8) If your engine was replaced, at how many miles were on the original engine? N/A
9) If you changed or had the oil changed, what oil did you use? N/A
10) How often did you monitor your oil level or added oil? Have yet to look. Guess I should to get an idea of where it is at to know how much is being consumed.
 
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Engine #1

1) How many miles before first oil change? 500
2) How many miles before racing? Don't race, no track time
3) How many miles before dyno? No dyno runs
4) How many miles before taking the RPM to 8250? 300
5) Have you ever reved the engine before reaching operating temps? 180+ No
6) Have you used less than 91-93 octane fuel? No
7) Stock or modified? Ford performance dual oil catch cams. 100% stock
8) If your engine was replaced, at how many miles were on the original engine? This engine was replaced at 4000 miles
9) If you changed or had the oil changed, what oil did you use? Amsoil 5w50 motorcraft filter
10) How often did you monitor your oil level or added oil? Started using about 1000 miles. Progressively got worse until it was using more than 2 quarts per tank of gas.
11) If engine failure, please note cause. Excessive oil consumption.


Engine #2

1) How many miles before first oil change? 200
2) How many miles before racing? No track time with this engine
3) How many miles before dyno? 0
4) How many miles before taking the RPM to 8250? 500
5) Have you ever reved the engine before reaching operating temps? 180+ No
6) Have you used less than 91-93 octane fuel? No
7) Stock or modified? Ford performance dual oil catch cams. Totally stock
8) If your engine was replaced, at how many miles were on the original engine? Second engine
9) If you changed or had the oil changed, what oil did you use? Amsoil 5w50 motorcraft filter
10) How often did you monitor your oil level or added oil? I check every tank of gas. The second engine uses a quart every 500 miles.
11) If engine failure, please note cause.

Since I have struck out twice Ford is in the process of buying back my car. I have faith they will get it right so I have ordered another car. Wish me luck
 

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1) How many miles before first oil change? 1,500mi

2) How many miles before racing? No Track Time Yet

3) How many miles before dyno? No Dyno plans

4) How many miles before taking the RPM to 8250? 800mi

5) Have you ever reved the engine before reaching operating temps? 180+ No

6) Have you used less than 91-93 octane fuel? No

7) Stock or modified? stock

8) If your engine was replaced, at how many miles were on the original engine? N/A

9) If you changed or had the oil changed, what oil did you use? Motorcraft 5w-50

10) How often did you monitor your oil level or added oil? Haven't yet monitored the oil. At 2,300 mi with change at 1,500 mi, I should check now
 

17SHLB350

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1) How many miles before first oil change? 1,100mi(Getting done this Friday)

2) How many miles before racing? No Track Time Yet

3) How many miles before dyno? No Dyno plans

4) How many miles before taking the RPM to 8250? N/A i think I've only taken it to 7k

5) Have you ever reved the engine before reaching operating temps? 180+ Possibly

6) Have you used less than 91-93 octane fuel? No

7) Stock or modified? stock with JLT pax side catch can.

8) If your engine was replaced, at how many miles were on the original engine? N/A

9) If you changed or had the oil changed, what oil did you use? Motorcraft 5w-50

10) How often did you monitor your oil level or added oil? Checked once at 800, just below top dot.
 

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1) How many miles before first oil change? 4000

2) How many miles before racing? N/A

3) How many miles before dyno? N/A

4) How many miles before taking the RPM to 8250? 200 or so

5) Have you ever reved the engine before reaching operating temps? 180+ No

6) Have you used less than 91-93 octane fuel? No

7) Stock or modified? FP catch cans

8) If your engine was replaced, at how many miles were on the original engine? N/A

9) If you changed or had the oil changed, what oil did you use? Motorcraft 5w-50

10) How often did you monitor your oil level or added oil? Haven't monitored
 

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Anyone from this vintage thread had a engine replaced?
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