Hoosier Drag Bracket Radial 28 x 10.50R17 vs MT ET Street R 305/45/17

[80FoxCoupe]

Well damn, sorry to hear that. Radial needs a dead hook to work. The broken parts just simply couldn't hold the power.

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[FSTBACKGT]

Well damn, sorry to hear that. Radial needs a dead hook to work. The broken parts just simply couldn't hold the power.

That’s kinda what I’m thinking too, ordered a Ford Racing iron Torsen diff. But the slower e.t. And mph are enough for me to stay with the tried and true Street R.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

That’s kinda what I’m thinking too, ordered a Ford Racing iron Torsen diff. But the slower e.t. And mph are enough for me to stay with the tried and true Street R.

Torsen wont like the dragstrip...

 

[FSTBACKGT]

Torsen wont like the dragstrip...

I was mistaken it has traction-lok from Ford Racing.
Torsen is factory in the 18+ PP cars

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I was mistaken it has traction-lok from Ford Racing.
Torsen is factory in the 18+ PP cars

Torsen is in all 15 up PP cars

 

[rabid_josh]

been considering the hoosier because i might be able to get them over the Mickey as of late. Wonder if theyll be ok on a near stock 20 a10 car

 

[CCHadwick]

Curious... do the Hoosiers have black lettering on the other side of the tire? I'm not into the white lettering thing. Hope they work out though, they are a bit cheaper than MT.

No they only have the white lettering on one side.

 

[CCHadwick]

Well, it was an expensive experiment for me. Might be different for someone else though.
A little about the car. 15 GT VMP Gen3R 900whp, fully built 6r80 by PBH, 1c converter 3.55’s.
Last time out without built trans and converter it went 9.5 @148 with Street R’s on.
First pass with Hoosiers went 9.76 @144.8.
Second pass I snapped off the ears on the diff housing and broke the 1000hp driveshaft.
PBH and tech support at Ford Racing basically said, yeah the Hoosiers dead hook and break shit, also e.t. and mph will be slower due to more rolling resistance. At a no prep track or Mexico is probably where these tires shine.
Long story short, going back to the Street R’s.

I tried mine out on both a prepped track and on no prep. First time on a prepped track the tires were slipping on my Forgestar wheels, so I got them re-installed with gasket maker so they would stick. Second time out on a prepped track no slippage at all on the wheel and they dead hooked on the track. My previous MT tires would usually chirp on gear shifts but not with the Hoosiers so the trans would absorb the impact. After about 5 passes that day the intermediate shaft in the trans broke.. On a no prep track it was hard to tell the difference between the Hoosiers and the ET street S/S as I had skinnes up front which I never had with the MT's. It was on a half-mile track as well so no 60' split. On a prepped track the Hoosiers definitely have more grip.

 

[rabid_josh]

sounds like all these are good for so far is broken parts! Yikes. I want to try them for the grip but sheeeesh I dont want to break anything.

 

[kcc0521]

Well, it was an expensive experiment for me. Might be different for someone else though.
A little about the car. 15 GT VMP Gen3R 900whp, fully built 6r80 by PBH, 1c converter 3.55’s.
Last time out without built trans and converter it went 9.5 @148 with Street R’s on.
First pass with Hoosiers went 9.76 @144.8.
Second pass I snapped off the ears on the diff housing and broke the 1000hp driveshaft.
PBH and tech support at Ford Racing basically said, yeah the Hoosiers dead hook and break shit, also e.t. and mph will be slower due to more rolling resistance. At a no prep track or Mexico is probably where these tires shine.
Long story short, going back to the Street R’s.

Did you data log both runs? Was the DA similar? I don't see the tires taking 4MPH. I think the people you talked to about it were talking out there ass and it was certainly a subjective opinion at best. The broken parts are hard to deny though.

 

[arichmond1003]

I have these on my 18 a10 car, they deadhook everywhere. Prep, no prep, street. They don’t care. Way better for street racing in my opinion. I feel like I’m running pretty good et and trap speeds with them though compared to my friend with the same car same mods on a MT et street r tire

 

[kcc0521]

I bought a set to try as well so we will see how they compare on a twin turbo 2015 4r200 car. The ET street works well on good tracks but I have been struggling on tracks with bad prep.

 

[rabid_josh]

I bought a set to try as well so we will see how they compare on a twin turbo 2015 4r200 car. The ET street works well on good tracks but I have been struggling on tracks with bad prep.

looking forward to your results to compare

 

[kcc0521]

I finally go the car to the track but I only got two passes. The tires did well and they do seem like they may be a bit harder on the driveline. On the first pass I ran them with 17PSI hot and it dead hooked. The next pass I turned the power up and bumped the pressure to 19. The car spun hard on that pass. i think they will work well when I get it dialed in. The tires are about 5lbs lighter each and seem to have a much softer sidewall. i think the ET Street R and the Hoosier would benefit from a larger wheel since I have them mounted on a 10" wheel.

 

[NO1CARES]

Well, it was an expensive experiment for me. Might be different for someone else though.
A little about the car. 15 GT VMP Gen3R 900whp, fully built 6r80 by PBH, 1c converter 3.55’s.
Last time out without built trans and converter it went 9.5 @148 with Street R’s on.
First pass with Hoosiers went 9.76 @144.8.
Second pass I snapped off the ears on the diff housing and broke the 1000hp driveshaft.
PBH and tech support at Ford Racing basically said, yeah the Hoosiers dead hook and break shit, also e.t. and mph will be slower due to more rolling resistance. At a no prep track or Mexico is probably where these tires shine.
Long story short, going back to the Street R’s.

So this was going to happen by getting faster. You can't blame a tire for this because it could've happened with any tire. You were asking for it by even going to the track with an aluminum housing diff. If you look at where the driveshaft broke, I would bet 100 dollars to anyone that the driveshaft had been rubbing that small bracket every time you put power down due to the pinion lifting. You can actually see the rub marks. The factory diff bushings allow way to much movement and causes this.

So in the end, the tire did not cause this failure.

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