Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

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honeybadger

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thanks for the update on the mufflers. I have LTH brand long tube headers with their ECOTf cats this time around. They will not trip a CEL code. When I ran the ARH on my 2017 I had a CEL come up that Lund cleared for me. Now tuners will not shut them off because of the EPA crackdown So I needed something that would work well. I plan on running these into the resonator delete I already have and the factory mufflers to see how it sounds. I have the grimspeed valve delete plugs already on it because I just prefer it open all the time. I may unplug them and hook the valves back up if Iā€™m annoying neighbors too much. Good info on the BMR springs. I will look at those this time around as Iā€™m still on factory stuff. I had FP last time.
I have some buddies that have stock tunes and get away with catless headers, but not sure how much performance they're gaining without the tune. Honestly, I'm not a huge fan of the Voodoo without cats at anything but WOT. My car would be so damn obnoxious on the street, I can't even imagine.

Highly recommend the BMR stuff.
 

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I have some buddies that have stock tunes and get away with catless headers, but not sure how much performance they're gaining without the tune. Honestly, I'm not a huge fan of the Voodoo without cats at anything but WOT. My car would be so damn obnoxious on the street, I can't even imagine.

Highly recommend the BMR stuff.
Yeah. The catless setup I first ran hurt my head after all day at the track, even with the helmet on. I added the cats to that one. Lund tune already will take advantage of the headers once I put them on. I have the tune to cover the JLT Intake and running E85 or 93 octane. I found a used ngauge for the 2018 GT350 so I could use it as a real time gauge for my ethanol sensor. It pre-programmed to take a zeitronix ethanol sensor and be a display for it. I use that sensor to monitor E85 quality. I hated the test tube fuel sampling. This setup works great. Itā€™s mounted inline right at the fuel rail connection on the motor.
ā€˜shopping the BMR stuff right now. Did you do basically their whole rear bushing set for the rear cradle, differential and lower control arm bearings? Poly or aluminum? Still using the FP sways?
 
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Yeah. The catless setup I first ran hurt my head after all day at the track, even with the helmet on. I added the cats to that one. Lund tune already will take advantage of the headers once I put them on. I have the tune to cover the JLT Intake and running E85 or 93 octane. I found a used ngauge for the 2018 GT350 so I could use it as a real time gauge for my ethanol sensor. It pre-programmed to take a zeitronix ethanol sensor and be a display for it. I use that sensor to monitor E85 quality. I hated the test tube fuel sampling. This setup works great. Itā€™s mounted inline right at the fuel rail connection on the motor.
ā€˜shopping the BMR stuff right now. Did you do basically their whole rear bushing set for the rear cradle, differential and lower control arm bearings? Poly or aluminum? Still using the FP sways?
I actually have Full Tilt Boogie Racing's bushing/bearing setup in the rear end of the car (lower control arm/cradle bushings) as well as their tow arms (BMR is fine here too). For the rear camber arm, I use SPC and won't suggest anything else based on what's currently available. Vertical links are still stock.

I don't like the lock outs and braces as I feel they're a band aid and don't give the same feel/feedback. However, they're a lot easier to install.
 

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I actually have Full Tilt Boogie Racing's bushing/bearing setup in the rear end of the car (lower control arm/cradle bushings) as well as their tow arms (BMR is fine here too). For the rear camber arm, I use SPC and won't suggest anything else based on what's currently available. Vertical links are still stock.

I don't like the lock outs and braces as I feel they're a band aid and don't give the same feel/feedback. However, they're a lot easier to install.
Any insight on FTBR's bushing/bearing setup for the rear vs BMR or others? I'm putting in BMR springs and will be looking at locking down the rear end next.
 

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Any insight on FTBR's bushing/bearing setup for the rear vs BMR or others? I'm putting in BMR springs and will be looking at locking down the rear end next.
Not particularly. The BMR parts look good and I'd have no problem running them. I only ran FTBR because my buddy already had tested them and I knew what to expect. As mentioned, I'd skip the camber arm, tho. Go with SPC for that.

This guy??

https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=72370&region=USA&make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=2017 - 2017&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

Interesting. Whatā€™s unique/special about this one to win your top accolades?

FTB camber arms are being redesigned and none are available at the moment; I always thought their stuff looked solid.
It combines the strengths of the OEM arm (solid construction, no weak points that can get fatigue and break) and fixes the shortcomings--locks out the oem adjustment slot and moves adjustment to the knuckle using a concentric nut sleeve. Adjustment is locked in when tightened down (I promise you it wont move) and it's nice and precise when you need to adjust it.
 

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Not particularly. The BMR parts look good and I'd have no problem running them. I only ran FTBR because my buddy already had tested them and I knew what to expect. As mentioned, I'd skip the camber arm, tho. Go with SPC for that.
Thanks. I've already got the SPC camber arms and BMR toe links out back to go with my Steeda camber plates and camber bolts up front - I focused on alignment first before changing suspension.
 

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I have the BMR handling springs on in the rear now. They're MUCH stiffer the FP springs. They don't squat nearly as bad under power and make the car much more predictable on track out.

The FP springs were great until I added aero
Did you get the new SPH767 BMR springs? How is the static drop compared to the FP springs? Thanks!
 
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Did you get the new SPH767 BMR springs? How is the static drop compared to the FP springs? Thanks!
Yep. I picked up the scratch/dent version for like $145 delivered to my door. Not sure what doesn't pass their QC process, but it might be minor. I saw nothing that caught my attention.

BMR Suspension SPH767R-SD - ***SCRATCH & DENT*** - Lowering Springs, Rear, Handling Version, GT350 - 2015-2021 Mustang

Static drop appears to be the same. FP claims 20mm and BMR claims .75 in. I didn't notice a difference and the car looks the same as it did with the FP springs. I highly recommend them. You immediately feel it
 

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Yep. I picked up the scratch/dent version for like $145 delivered to my door. Not sure what doesn't pass their QC process, but it might be minor. I saw nothing that caught my attention.

BMR Suspension SPH767R-SD - ***SCRATCH & DENT*** - Lowering Springs, Rear, Handling Version, GT350 - 2015-2021 Mustang

Static drop appears to be the same. FP claims 20mm and BMR claims .75 in. I didn't notice a difference and the car looks the same as it did with the FP springs. I highly recommend them. You immediately feel it

Are there any notable differences or advantages to the BMR springs instead of the Ford Performance springs?
 

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The BMR springs are linear rate, so the spring rate is consistent throughout the entire load range. FP springs are progressive, so they start out squishy and firm up as they are loaded.
 
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In terms on track performance, I felt that the BMR springs were noticeably bumpier, but they resisted squat much better and were more predictable when I loaded them up on throttle. I'll need a track day where I turn everything off instead of running track mode to see if they help with the snap oversteer I had with the FP springs.
 

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In terms on track performance, I felt that the BMR springs were noticeably bumpier, but they resisted squat much better and were more predictable when I loaded them up on throttle. I'll need a track day where I turn everything off instead of running track mode to see if they help with the snap oversteer I had with the FP springs.
If you ever experienced snap oversteer with the FP springs I would imagine it's due to the line && throttle application. You had far to little rear spring with the change away from OEM prior to the BMR springs. All things being equal you will not experience snap oversteer. Note, however that is not to say no oversteer.
 
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Finally had a chance to film an outro for the video I put together about how I made a new splitter after wrecking the last one. This new is a wee bit bigger, more stable, and easier to take on and off. A big part of that are because of the killer splitter rods I stumbled upon from Professional Awesome. Anyways, enjoy and let me know if you have any questions!



IMG_0256.jpeg
IMG_0257.jpeg
IMG_0255.jpeg
 

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CAD - "cardboard-aided design" had me ROFL.

2 ideas:

Why not use 'crumple' plastic like say 3 layers of corrugated plastic sheet instead of something as stout as 1/2" plywood? That way you hit anything it disintegrates on impact. You can use thin strips of metal (think angle-iron used to join 2x4s together in joists, but thinner like those metal yardsticks) to give it a little more body and prevent pull-thru of the fasteners. Nylon fasteners would also sheer in a hit.

How about tilting the air dam downward ala 1970's Mach 1? Granted the S550 rides damn low compared to cars from 50 years ago so maybe there isn't enough clearance. But maybe tie the two catfish 'legs' with a panel at the same angle?
 
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