DougS550
Well-Known Member
Good luckIf only. We're just hitting the best time of year for track use here in TX. Gotta' fix quickly and soldier on! Rest period for me is typically Jan-first week of March
Good luckIf only. We're just hitting the best time of year for track use here in TX. Gotta' fix quickly and soldier on! Rest period for me is typically Jan-first week of March
Sorry to hear about the issues, but glad the bump start worked for you!! I've had to do that a number of times in beater cars. People look at you real funny when you're rolling in reverse fairly quickly out of an inclined parking spot....... Fortunately, I thought ahead and parked on a hill and the LSScrew was willing to push start. That work fine….
It's a healthy Antigravity ATX-20HD - it tested well about 15 days ago.What battery?
Measure battery voltage with a fast DMM.
Then measure while hitting the starter.
As an example, if voltage drops from 13V to 6.5V when loaded, the starter will need to draw more than 2x current (amps) to function!
Obviously, starter windings will likely overheat first or you may burn the contacts of a relay.
A weak battery can lead to all kinds of gremlins, including mag ride and TCS. Its super frustrating if the voltage drops only under higher loads and circuits flake out.
Logging battery voltage might be helpful if you are logging.
Not sure I'm following on this oneHere's one. Just makesure it goes no further than OEM Dip stick
You buy one that fits the ID of your Oil Dip Stick Tube. It is a 90 watt oil heater.Not sure I'm following on this one
I guess I'm not sure why you're suggesting it to meYou buy one that fits the ID of your Oil Dip Stick Tube. It is a 90 watt oil heater.
Lol, Now that's Funny. Sorry I got your post mixed up with someone else's. Good luckI guess I'm not sure why you're suggesting it to me
Will do. Working through it as parts become available. We'll see!Let us know what is killing starters?
Really interested to hear.
Correct. The battery has been flawless for me. Always is around 13.3 unless charging or powering something like the starter.I believe if the rear bearings have play it will cause TC and ABS troubles.
No idea on the starter.
I think the 20 HD battery has discharge protection so if it pulls down to 11.5 or something the battery switches off.
The 11.5 is my best recollection so don't shoot me if it is a bit higher or lower.
Ok, so I get that there's an interesting thing happening in the Mustang GT world, but you're on the GT350 section of the forum and none of what you've posted applies to GT350's. Totally different setup. GT350 front wheel bearings/hubs are sealed units that not only don't have this problem, they literally can't have this problem. They're that different.I had abs issues due to a couple elements(magnets) in the magnetic ring failing. Not sure if I threw it away.
When I got the hub off, I was able to hang a paper clip from a string and slowly move it around the ring to see deflection.
Somewhere I have a magnetic field viewing film that also works to check ABS mag rings.
See this before, bearing on magnetic try = oops
ATE 760130 ABS Test Card for Magnetic Sensor Wheels:
https://www.amazon.com/ATE-760130-Magnetic-Sensor-Wheels/dp/B003VXPHW4
https://www.google.com/search?q=Magnetic+Field+Viewing+Film
https://www.google.com/search?q=testing+abs+magnetic+ring
In 30 years I have seen this twice: once was impact damage from debris, other was heat induced.
So if you get hubs hot enough from brakes, and grease cooks out, then bearing overheats, you could overheat the magnet ring and they loose strength fast if overheated.