Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

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honeybadger

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I don’t think it’s anything you would ever feel, per se. the braking surface of the disc would be no differrnt. Like trackaholic said, it’s all airflow. It would be a matter of temperature regulation. Would probably take the most extreme conditions to get to that point. They won’t cool as well, so the temps would remain elevated. Would you “feel” that? Depends on how good you are, how well the pads handle the heat, etc.
That's why I'm a bit surprised I didn't feel it .they had to have been running hot at COTA. Fortunately, it was a cooler weekend, so maybe that helped.
 
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Prepping for my 3-day weekend at MSR-Cresson this weekend with Drivers Edge and noticed something interesting.

I've run between -3.2 to -4 camber all year long using the MM camber plates at max and BMR camber bolts providing the final adjustments. Wheels/tires have been SV501 19x11 (et 52) wheels wrapped in 305/30R19 Cup2s using a 25mm spacer up front. Something like 12 track days on this setup I think? Anyways, no rub of any kind. But looks like my last weekend at COTA was a bit more than the setup would allow (camber was set to -3.7). Given that I'm going to be running 315 Hoosiers on a similar wheel in Dec, looks like I'll need to rethink the setup. Current thinking of switching to Vorshlag plates (more adjust ability than MM) and switching the 25mm spacer to 28 or 30mm spacers. Thoughts?
20181112_203403.jpg


Looking at the back of the wheels, I see a few knicks. Hard to know what's contact with the strut vs. rocks vs. tire changing machines.
20181112_204514.jpg


The new Hoosiers are quite a bit wider than the 305 Cup2s. Mix that with the additional contact patch due to not having the tread, I have a feel the rub would be much worse.
20181112_211111.jpg


On a another note, looks like my G2 caliper paint has finally started failing. Interestingly, I think this is only because of residual brake fluid vs heat.
20181112_211840.jpg


When I decided to use this paint, it was mostly because they offered service to get custom colors and it was affordable (total cost of $100 or so). Plus, I'm a sucker for DIY. Given the state of my front calipers, I'd still recommend it. Although, I will be going with a DIY powdercoat this winter to try something new.
20181112_211857.jpg


And this one is for you, @Niz55 . Rotors are on the correct side :)
20181112_203418.jpg
 

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Might be time to switch camber plates and ditch the camber bolts (go back to stock bolt). The camber bolt changes the camber by moving the wheel relative to the strut housing, while the plates move the wheel and strut housing as an assembly. Given the option, I'd go with smaller spacer and no camber bolt if you can get to the camber you need with a different plate + stock bolts.
 

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I use Vorshlag plates and was only able to max out at just under -3*. I needed the janky bolts to gain an extra degree.
 
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Might be time to switch camber plates and ditch the camber bolts (go back to stock bolt). The camber bolt changes the camber by moving the wheel relative to the strut housing, while the plates move the wheel and strut housing as an assembly. Given the option, I'd go with smaller spacer and no camber bolt if you can get to the camber you need with a different plate + stock bolts.
That's what I'm thinking. I'm hoping I can stick with the 25mm spacer, but might need to go bigger even with the stock bolts to give a bit more breathing room. I adjusted the bolts back to the stock position last night and it's still not that much clearance. I'll get a measurement soon. Once my new wheels come in and I can get the Hoosiers mounted, I'll have a better idea of much I need.

I just wish I knew of a camber plate with more than Vorshlag's adjustment. Guess I could go for the GT4 plates at $1K+ per side :cwl:

I use Vorshlag plates and was only able to max out at just under -3*. I needed the janky bolts to gain an extra degree.
Damn. I was hoping to get more than that. At least -3.2 or so. I read that the Steeda plates offer even more adjust-ability, but wasn't super impressed with the use of the OEM thrust bearing. Hmm. I'll probably wait until I run COTA in 4 weeks to get some tire temps and dial in the camber adjustments with the current setup as best as I can. I might not need the extra camber with a stiffer sidewall tire.
 

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If you cut a larger hole in the strut tower will the vorshlag plates give you anymore adjustment?
 
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If you cut a larger hole in the strut tower will the vorshlag plates give you anymore adjustment?
I don't think so. I believe @straightliner1 opened up strut tower hole, so the limitation is on the camber plate itself.
 
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Hi all -

If you've poked into my Codes P144A and P0193 (ugh..not again) thread, you'll already have seen that I had quite the up and down weekend at Motorsports Ranch Cresson last weekend. First session out, the car started misfiring like crazy. After throwing no other codes nor it being specific to any one cylinder, the hypothesis was that is bad gas or spark plugs from when I did the compression test. I put a tank of VP100 in and replaced the spark plugs and was able to make the last session of Saturday on the 1.3. Car ran great, no problems.

I ran all day on Saturday without issue. We were running the 1.7. In the second to last session, I broke into the 1:24s. Was very happy with this time considering I was running my Pilot Super Sports and it was 39 degrees!



In the last session of the day, the car started to act like it had fuel starvation. Massively down on power, only on high-g turns, etc. It threw the CEL a lap later and I came in to find Codes P144A and P0193. Check out this thread for that saga. Fortunately, I was able to diagnose the problem (knock on wood) as yet ANOTHER bad wire coming out of one of the connectors on the engine harness (the Fuel Rail Pressure/Temperature Sensor specifically). After a quick redneck sodder job, it appeared the car was fixed. It was time to head back to the track and put the car through the paces to see if the fix worked.

This past saturday I headed back out to MSR-C for some redemption. Fortunately, HB went through over 2 hours of track time without any incident. For the time being, all looks to be good. Even managed to break into the 1:23s with the same aero/tire setup. Awhh yeah.



HUGE thank you to @tlisotta for the invite. I sincerely appreciate your hospitality!


As a side note, it was an absolute blast running the car on super sports for the past 3 days. Really good back to basics type of scenario. The super sports really highlight all the bad habits you've built on R compound tires. Really made progress on my corner entry speed and braking/turn in/throttle timing. Can't wait to get back to COTA and apply what I was able to work on.

And of course, since HB was wearing street tires, I changed the aero package. I call this "HB in street clothes." Almost unrecognizable, right? :crackup:

20181124_113152.jpg
 

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how many track miles on it now?
 
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how many track miles on it now?
The car has just under 19,000 on the odometer. I’d estimate about 10,500 are track miles
 
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that's great!
Fortunately, my engine has been rock solid. I thank the engine gods routinely for giving this degenerate track rat a reliable engine :D

Unfortunately, the engine harness has caused a few problems since the dealer visit. But on the bright side, I am getting much more proficient at diagnosing problems. hehe
 
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My black Friday purchase just showed up :)
20181126_143035.jpg
 
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Anytime!! Had a blast. Love it when we have 350s out there running hard! Great to see ya and look forward to you coming back.
Just let me know when and I'll be there!
 
 
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