Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

[honeybadger]

New rotors and pads are ordered. These Girodisc rotors were cryo'd - they've been through 1.5 sets of ST43 pads - so about 10 track days. I expect they have another 4-5 days on them pretty easy, but I am switching pad brands and want to start fresh. So new rings ordered.

I've also ordered a new set of rear rotors for the same reason - while these don't have cracks, they definitely have ridges, I'd like to start fresh vs. getting them turned. Will likely keep them and the OEM pads I have for them as spares.

I've ordered a new set of the Girodisc rears - will be nice to have a matching set and switch the cross drilled for the slotted.

As for pads, I am trying out Cobalt Racing Pads (XR1 front and XR2) after having a chat with them and seeing all the Porsches down here run them at COTA. Should be pretty spicy.

 

[honeybadger]

Did a side-by-side lap comparison of my fastest 2:24 lap and a more recent 2:26 lap



Couple observations from me:

1. VCT delete motor is definitely slower on the straights - need moar gearing so I can stay out of 2nd gear, but still benefit from higher RPMs

2. the Pirelli DH tires gripped A LOT more on the off-camber turns like T9, this led to a lot more speed going into T11 than my recent video. This could be related to alignment struggles

3. Driving now is a lot smoother, some more apex speed in a couple places

4. Car is dancing under high speed braking


Difference outside of time:

1. Pirelli DH tires on faster lap, Goodyear 3R tires on second
2. V1 MPR Racing motor (with VCT) on faster lap, V2 MPR Racing motor (without VCT) on slower lap

Rest should be the same.

 

[JAJ]

So, you have data for both laps, correct? If so, then:

- compare time from corner exit (from each turn or complex of turns) to brake application at the next turn
- compare times from brake application to corner exit for each turn (or complex)

This set of comparisons will tell you if you're losing time in the corners or on the straights. My guess from watching is that you're gaining a bit in the corners, but losing a lot on the straights.

I don't remember the details of the fixed cam timing build, but IIRC, you have about the same HP at max RPM, but you have less torque lower down, so you don't build speed as quickly.

 

[EuroKllr]

As for pads, I am trying out Cobalt Racing Pads (XR1 front and XR2) after having a chat with them and seeing all the Porsches down here run them at COTA. Should be pretty spicy.

Really interested in what you think of the Cobalt pads. I just order a set, XR2 (F) & XR4 (R) on stock rotors.

Question - what coolant / anti-freeze are you running, and how often are you changing your fluid?

 

[ZX3ST]

As for pads, I am trying out Cobalt Racing Pads (XR1 front and XR2) after having a chat with them and seeing all the Porsches down here run them at COTA. Should be pretty spicy.

I'm running XR2 squared on mine and so far have been really happy. I think I might go down to XR3 on the next set. I think these might be just a touch too grippy for my skill level, especially if I have anything less than a Cup2 on the car.

 

[honeybadger]

Really interested in what you think of the Cobalt pads. I just order a set, XR2 (F) & XR4 (R) on stock rotors.

Question - what coolant / anti-freeze are you running, and how often are you changing your fluid?

I use water only now. when I was having cooling issues in 2019, I was draining coolant a lot. I gave up and just went to water. No issues and it’s a lot safer if anything leaks. And I change it yearly

I'm running XR2 squared on mine and so far have been really happy. I think I might go down to XR3 on the next set. I think these might be just a touch too grippy for my skill level, especially if I have anything less than a Cup2 on the car.

Nice! Any issues with ABS using the same front and rear?

 

[oldbmwfan]

If you're using water only, I recommend adding 1-2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter. It does three things:
1) Surfactant - reduces surface tension to prevent bubble formation and improve cooling efficiency. Water has much higher surface tension than water/coolant mixture
2) Lubricant - improves water pump life
3) Corrosion inhibitor - straight water sitting in the cooling system between events can be damaging over time

It's useful with coolant, also, so I use it in any car that doesn't take a G05 coolant (mostly my older BMWs), but it's especially beneficial without coolant because it replaces much of the other benefits of coolant.

 

[honeybadger]

If you're using water only, I recommend adding 1-2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter. It does three things:
1) Surfactant - reduces surface tension to prevent bubble formation and improve cooling efficiency. Water has much higher surface tension than water/coolant mixture
2) Lubricant - improves water pump life
3) Corrosion inhibitor - straight water sitting in the cooling system between events can be damaging over time

It's useful with coolant, also, so I use it in any car that doesn't take a G05 coolant (mostly my older BMWs), but it's especially beneficial without coolant because it replaces much of the other benefits of coolant.

should have noted that I run Amsoil Coolant Boost in the system. My understanding is it’s very similar to water wetter.

 

[50 Deep]

Such a stud..... Keep going HB!

 

[honeybadger]

Ok, what a charlie foxtrot of a weekend. If you follow me on IG, you’ll know it started with a bad starter (). Couple overnight packages and we had the solenoid replaced and all was good.

Until Friday night. We got there, unloaded the car and the starter failed. New solenoid only lasted (2) starts. Okay, frustratibg, but no biggie. We installed the FP part that’s the same hardware, but slightly different casing. All is good.

then Saturday after session 2, I rip the entire splitter and belly off the car in the parking lot.

fix that overnight, and on Sunday, the start dies AGAIN. Fortunately, I thought ahead and parked on a hill and the LSScrew was willing to push start. That work fine….

then second to last session, the car got super squirrely like I hit oil or a tire failed or something. I limp it back to pits just in case. Car looks fine, no issues. Jack it up and start checking things out. Turns out both rear wheel bearings have a Tony amount of play in them. Oooof.

well, got out for the final session and the car is more sensitive to sliding in TrackMode than wet mode. It was so bad, I actually looked down to make sure I didn’t forget to change modes.

So, I have two things to look into:

1. Why is the car frying starters
2. What is causing TC to go crazy

1 has to be an electrical issue. My guess is wiring harness, but I’ll have to run some tests.

#2 is more of a wild card to me. Could the wheel bearings cause this? I did check my AIM data and the wheel speed sensors appear to be working correctly

 

[16Kobra]

Ok, what a charlie foxtrot of a weekend. If you follow me on IG, you’ll know it started with a bad starter (). Couple overnight packages and we had the solenoid replaced and all was good.

Until Friday night. We got there, unloaded the car and the starter failed. New solenoid only lasted (2) starts. Okay, frustratibg, but no biggie. We installed the FP part that’s the same hardware, but slightly different casing. All is good.

then Saturday after session 2, I rip the entire splitter and belly off the car in the parking lot.

fix that overnight, and on Sunday, the start dies AGAIN. Fortunately, I thought ahead and parked on a hill and the LSScrew was willing to push start. That work fine….

then second to last session, the car got super squirrely like I hit oil or a tire failed or something. I limp it back to pits just in case. Car looks fine, no issues. Jack it up and start checking things out. Turns out both rear wheel bearings have a Tony amount of play in them. Oooof.

well, got out for the final session and the car is more sensitive to sliding in TrackMode than wet mode. It was so bad, I actually looked down to make sure I didn’t forget to change modes.

So, I have two things to look into:

1. Why is the car frying starters
2. What is causing TC to go crazy

1 has to be an electrical issue. My guess is wiring harness, but I’ll have to run some tests.

#2 is more of a wild card to me. Could the wheel bearings cause this? I did check my AIM data and the wheel speed sensors appear to be working correctly

Out of Curiosity, what track?

 

[honeybadger]

Out of Curiosity, what track?

COTA

 

[DougS550]

Out of Curiosity, what track?

I think its about time to Let Honey Badger rest for the winter. Take a Break, Inspect your starter system, brakes, Wheel Bearing everything which wears out fast when racing. Let Her Rest!! Good Luck

 

[16Kobra]

COTA

Sorry to hear you had all those issues. Good luck figuring it out.

 

[honeybadger]

I think its about time to Let Honey Badger rest for the winter. Take a Break, Inspect your starter system, brakes, Wheel Bearing everything which wears out fast when racing. Let Her Rest!! Good Luck

If only. We're just hitting the best time of year for track use here in TX. Gotta' fix quickly and soldier on! Rest period for me is typically Jan-first week of March