Help Me With My Build Sheet (2020 5.0 10 Speed Auto)

[In5am0us]

So I'm looking to build my 2020 5.0 to about 750 crank horsepower. I want to go the Procharger route. But I need a bit of help planning it out so I don't accidentally blow up some other internal parts in the car. I've already picked the tires I want, but I need help with everything else... So...

Will I need to upgrade my suspension, driveshaft, diff?

Will I need to upgrade my transmission or change anything? (10 speed auto)

Are there any other changes that I will have to make for it to be able to handle the power without blowing up/turning something into a pretzel?

I'm used to being able to handle power but building it is something I'm new to, so any tips I would love to hear.

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[Brad1810r80]

At that level you should be good to go. I would recommend a sticker tire , for the street nitro r2 is great.

I’ve been in stock everything besides the supercharger and make 750-800 whp and it’s been great .

 

[MCS]

Agreed with the above. The NT555 RIIs are great. I had G2s all around and ended up going with RII on the rear as they are much more sticky and are able to handle spirited accelerations.

 

[Zrussian13]

At 750 crank you don't have to get crazy with upgrades. Like said before a good rear tire and call it a day. If you plan on launching hard at the drag strip you probably want axles but for the street the gt will handle 750 with ease.

 

[In5am0us]

At 750 crank you don't have to get crazy with upgrades. Like said before a good rear tire and call it a day. If you plan on launching hard at the drag strip you probably want axles but for the street the gt will handle 750 with ease.

no suspension/driveshaft upgrade needed, or should i go with it anyway?

 

[schmeky]

Based on my personal expereince, if you don't do a hydraulic/pressure/shift strategy upgrade, the stock 10R has a very good chance of taking a dump if you like to stay in it quite a bit.

To up HP by about 60% at the crank and leave the trans stock is a mis-match.

My 10R lasted about 6K miles after I installed my Stage II Pro-Charger, which is roughly at around 740-750 whp.

 

[Zrussian13]

no suspension/driveshaft upgrade needed, or should i go with it anyway?

That's up to you. At that power level you can get away with out any extras. That doesn't mean you won't benefit from them.

 

[Proshop]

Based on my personal expereince, if you don't do a hydraulic/pressure/shift strategy upgrade, the stock 10R has a very good chance of taking a dump if you like to stay in it quite a bit.

To up HP by about 60% at the crank and leave the trans stock is a mis-match.

My 10R lasted about 6K miles after I installed my Stage II Pro-Charger, which is roughly at around 740-750 whp.

This^^^^! Build the trans and get full suspension you’ll thank us later. Oh and the stickier tire like said before. If you have the proper fueling and tune the trans really is the weakest link. Ask us how we know!

 

[In5am0us]

Based on my personal expereince, if you don't do a hydraulic/pressure/shift strategy upgrade, the stock 10R has a very good chance of taking a dump if you like to stay in it quite a bit.

To up HP by about 60% at the crank and leave the trans stock is a mis-match.

My 10R lasted about 6K miles after I installed my Stage II Pro-Charger, which is roughly at around 740-750 whp.

do you have a list of parts for the trans that i should get then?

 

[TrackMustang]

To up HP by about 60% at the crank and leave the trans stock is a mis-match.

Don’t take this as a slight at you cause I don’t mean it as such, but to say upping HP by 60% at the crank and leaving the trans stock is a mismatch seems to be a misnomer… you’re not doing anything to up the strength of the motor at all… why would you have to up the strength of the tranny if you don’t have to up the strength of the motor?

 

[HKusp]

Because the engine is much more capable of that power level than the transmission is. The engine, believe it or not, doesn't have nearly the amount of moving parts with very tight tight tolerances that a modern 10 speed automatic is dealing with, and the transmission is a force multiplier, so you are taking something designed for certain pressures and forces within a certain range and exponentially changing those forces.

 

[schmeky]

Trackmustang,

I was a trans builder for years. I can tell you from first hand experience, upping HP and leaving the trans calibration stock is a mistake.

Mis-match, plain and simple. You can't force 650 hp through a 400 hp calibration for very long.

10R's don't break, the internal suns, planets, and ring gears, as well as the input shaft and output shaft are robust and can handle lots of power.

10R's burn up the OEM clutch packs, so they need more line pressure and ultimately a better friction material.

 

[beefcake]

Pump gas with gen 3 will typically get you around 675 wheel. which will get you to your goal.

around 10psi is what you want, you can do that with an HO or stage 2, if doing the ho, i would opt for the stage 2 intercooler.

Supporting mods depends on how you use the car, suspension, axles, driveshaft will come into play when launching from a stop, but not so much for regular driving

Feel free to hit me with any questions

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