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Help! I think my rear subframe is bent.

MadMuirder

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Working on installing my Steeda IRS bushing support kit. The driver side went it (relatively) easily once I lubed the heck out of the 2 piece rear lower bushing. I'm working on installing the rear lower for the passenger side, but it wont even start to go in. I noticed on the driver side, I could fit my index finger between where the bushing goes in, and the subframe (?). But on the passenger side, its about 1/8" or so shorter/closer gap. I can't even start the short part of the bushing kit. Has anyone else run into this? Any advice would be fantastic.
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MadMuirder

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Mustang subframe questions https://imgur.com/a/189aDvI

Pictures on imgur since I dont know how to add them here. Also when I first started I realised by differential was crooked, but I vaguely remember that from when I installed my exhaust so I didnt think much of it.
 

88lx50

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I never did subframe bushings before but maybe you need to get them all loosened up and install them before tightening them down?
 
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MadMuirder

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I never did subframe bushings before but maybe you need to get them all loosened up and install them before tightening them down?
Unfortunately not. The issue is that the welded piece on the passenger side is closer than the welded piece on the driver side. I could have the whole subframe dropped and sitting on a table and I dont think it would change anything.
20190324_094051.jpg


That gap between the shiny metal piece and the black metal to it's right is smaller on the passenger side than the driver side.
 

Commbubba19

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I can’t speak to steedas as I did bmr cradle lockout. So far each time I’ve done the cradle install (twice now) I’ve had to have all 4 bolts for the cradle removed and the entire assembly supported by a jack via the differential. That is the only way I’ve gotten these kits to install and be able to shift the cradle around.

Instructions I’ve read for both kits mention doing one side at a time and being able to install the kit yet I see no way that would actually work.

Good luck.
 

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MadMuirder

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I can’t speak to steedas as I did bmr cradle lockout. So far each time I’ve done the cradle install (twice now) I’ve had to have all 4 bolts for the cradle removed and the entire assembly supported by a jack via the differential. That is the only way I’ve gotten these kits to install and be able to shift the cradle around.

Instructions I’ve read for both kits mention doing one side at a time and being able to install the kit yet I see no way that would actually work.

Good luck.
Thanks for the input, however as you can see in some of the pictures I posted, the only issue I'm having is fitting an bushing support in between two parts of the cradle itself....aka they're welded together and won't move...even if the whole subframe was sitting on a table. I'm really concerned, as I tried for about 2.5hrs yesterday to get this one piece in (all 5 on the driver side went on in an hour, and that included me having to run to the store to buy some spray on lube), and then I spent another 2 hours today trying today. I even took the wheel off to have a better angle, used 3 screwdrivers to position the piece and hit it with a rubber mallet....no luck whatsoever. So I ended up removing all the parts for the bushing support system, because I wanted to install the subframe braces I got and wasn't sure if I could install it if I had both front bushing supports on, and only the top rear, not the lower rear support. So tomorrow I'll be calling Steeda to see what I can do...I've got some dents/scratches on the rear lower bushing supports from attempting to get the one side on, and from getting the other side off. I'm pretty bummed. This weekend was supposed to be super exciting for me with new car parts, and it turned into a weekend of pain/disappointment b/c something is off with my car. The Steeda parts were made fantastically, fitment was great on all the pieces that didn't have to interact with that part of my borked subframe. Both the Braces and Alignment supports went in relatively painlessly.
 

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Those lower bushing supports are a real tight fit. Lube everything, work it around with a screwdriver and pry bar, and lots of patience. Hope that's all you need and nothing is really broken.
 

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Here's what did.
Remove the bolt if you have it in.
Get a long sturdy metal, or 3/8 extensions, or a long punch or anything that'll fit in there. The longer the better.
Insert said long sturdy metal in bolt hole and pry away the bushing while inserting the steeda piece. Extra set of hands will make it easier.
Good luck.
 

Commbubba19

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I don’t think I understand the problem based on the pic.

Did you watch the cjpp video on the install?
 

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All I have to add is - whatever you do don’t force that bolt in and cross thread....

Based on your posted pic, it seems the angle of the bolt is the problem, no?
 
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MadMuirder

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Those lower bushing supports are a real tight fit. Lube everything, work it around with a screwdriver and pry bar, and lots of patience. Hope that's all you need and nothing is really broken.
The thing is, I got the driver side in with about 30 mins of work. It was hard, and a lot of prying into place, but it fit. The passenger side the shorter piece of the support wont even start to round the tight bit between the bushing and subframe before hitting. I've soaked everything in lube and tried and tried on the passenger side. I even took the wheel off to get a better angle and use a rubber mallet to bang on this part.

My issue is the spacing is different on the passenger side. I need to know if it is supposed to be different. About to post some paint pics to explain.
driver rear subframe bolt painted.jpg

Okay so this is driver side, there was plenty of room here to fit the short piece of the support/collar through the red lines. I spent about 15 mins with some white lithium grease trying, and couldn't make much progress. Ran to NAPA, got a can of spray on lube, it went on in about 10 mins with a bit of prying/pushing/trying. It wasn't easy, but I was making progress each push.
passenger rear subframe bolt painted.jpg

This is passenger side, there is not enough room to fit the collar between the red lines, and the orangey/yellow paint mark is the edge of the bushing its getting hung up on....I've already taken a few small chunks out of it from beating on this with a hammer. Its not going through. I make zero progress from prying/hammering...everything.
passenger rear subframe bolt painted view 2.jpg

This is another view of the passenger side. The red lines signify the gap that I'm having trouble clearing. I can't even fit my finger between the stock lower silver piece (the one the left most red line crosses) on the passenger side, and on the driver side I can fit almost my whole tip of my index finger in that same spot (as you can see from the first two pics, driver side screwdriver fits with room, passenger side screwdriver head doesn't even fit.
Now the orange/yellow lines in this pic just point out that the bushing/grooved piece is welded to the subframe cradle. If I drop one side, both sides, pull the whole thing out and put it on the table...that clearance doesn't change. I snapped this pic right before I torqued everything back up, which is why the bolt is started. I've been performing all this work with the side I'm working on hanging free.
The blue I noticed from this picture, I didn't notice it when I was actually under the car....is this possibly a crack? It looks more like a scratch but I can't tell...I'm no pro and this is probably the most work I've ever done on my car (other mod I did myself was install catback exhaust).

MY QUESTION TO THE INTERNET: IS THIS GAP OUTLINED IN RED SUPPOSED TO BE DIFFERENT ON DRIVER SIDE VS PASSENGER SIDE REAR IRS SUBFRAME BOLT BUSHINGS?
 
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MadMuirder

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I don’t think I understand the problem based on the pic.

Did you watch the cjpp video on the install?
See above comment for clarification. Yes I've watched basically every video on youtube regarding this install. I got the driver side on no issue, spent about 5 hours total trying to make the passenger side lower rear support fit. Gave up, took all the parts off, installed the rest of my kit (braces and alignment support pins).

Cobra Jet, Today at 5:56 PM
All I have to add is - whatever you do don’t force that bolt in and cross thread....

Based on your posted pic, it seems the angle of the bolt is the problem, no?
Uhh I'm not sure if its the bolt angle per se, everything lines up with the bolts, I'm able to get them back into place and torqued to spec no issues, no cross threading. Its the clearance between the piece the bolt goes through, and the subframe itself. See above post for pretty paint sketches lol.
 

Cobra Jet

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Have you tried reaching out to Steeda folks on here yet, they’re always on the forums. @tj@steeda

Supposed that silver washer was trimmed with a Drexel, would you think it would then have the clearance you need? I know the parts should not have to be modified, just asking general question,
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