voodoochild1990
Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Hi All,
Dealing with some frustration on this particular issue. For reference, I’m driving a stock 2017 Shelby GT350.
I was at an autocross event (in Track Mode) and towards the end of my runs, about halfway through a lap, my exhaust valves closed and I noticed my drive mode had reset to Normal. I parked it, opened the valves back up but when I went to change the drive mode I got a screen error that said “Drive Mode Selection Not Available”. Simultaneously, when I went to back up, my back up camera is only a blue screen before turning black and then delivering the “Rear View Camera is Unavailable. Please See Your Dealership”.
I have read other threads around this issue but my exhaust valves and steering modes are working fine (I can hear the exhaust valves check at startup). When I start the vehicle, the Gauge Cluster center display flashes the drive mode icon a few times and then stops. I believe there is some sort of electrical issue or something wrong in the ECU/PCM. The drive home from the track was interesting, more noise from the suspension from ever and the car would “float” over bumps in the road like a Buick/Boat. Feels like there is no dampening at all and if there is, each wheel has a different dampening rate (feels incredibly unbalanced). I’ve never encountered this issue before on any track days and I had the car inspected recently with no issues (Tech Inspection). I believe the rear view camera is just the recalled wiring harness issue (trunk light is out too, turns on briefly if I mess with the point where it rubs).
Possibly, the control unit for reverse near the transmission could be borked and the car thinks it’s in reverse and would lock out drive mode selection, however; it would not explain the blinking Drive Mode icon on the display at startup or the complete lack of dampening/suspension “float”.
Has anyone dealt with this before or have any clue what may be wrong? Possible troubleshooting steps on this? I’m wary the dealership is going to just be lazy and want to replace the entire Magneride and charge me a fortune (out of warranty) as they tried with the AC Compressor which just turned out to be a bad AC Clutch. Advice?
Dealing with some frustration on this particular issue. For reference, I’m driving a stock 2017 Shelby GT350.
I was at an autocross event (in Track Mode) and towards the end of my runs, about halfway through a lap, my exhaust valves closed and I noticed my drive mode had reset to Normal. I parked it, opened the valves back up but when I went to change the drive mode I got a screen error that said “Drive Mode Selection Not Available”. Simultaneously, when I went to back up, my back up camera is only a blue screen before turning black and then delivering the “Rear View Camera is Unavailable. Please See Your Dealership”.
I have read other threads around this issue but my exhaust valves and steering modes are working fine (I can hear the exhaust valves check at startup). When I start the vehicle, the Gauge Cluster center display flashes the drive mode icon a few times and then stops. I believe there is some sort of electrical issue or something wrong in the ECU/PCM. The drive home from the track was interesting, more noise from the suspension from ever and the car would “float” over bumps in the road like a Buick/Boat. Feels like there is no dampening at all and if there is, each wheel has a different dampening rate (feels incredibly unbalanced). I’ve never encountered this issue before on any track days and I had the car inspected recently with no issues (Tech Inspection). I believe the rear view camera is just the recalled wiring harness issue (trunk light is out too, turns on briefly if I mess with the point where it rubs).
Possibly, the control unit for reverse near the transmission could be borked and the car thinks it’s in reverse and would lock out drive mode selection, however; it would not explain the blinking Drive Mode icon on the display at startup or the complete lack of dampening/suspension “float”.
Has anyone dealt with this before or have any clue what may be wrong? Possible troubleshooting steps on this? I’m wary the dealership is going to just be lazy and want to replace the entire Magneride and charge me a fortune (out of warranty) as they tried with the AC Compressor which just turned out to be a bad AC Clutch. Advice?
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