Headers: How did you get the top passenger studs and nuts on?

[sKyZ]

2019 GT A10 PP.

I have the header mounted, all of the bottom studs are in as well as the second to front stud on the top. I've been trying for a week (and failing) to get the top rear, second from rear, and front stud on as well as the nuts. I have removed the battery, battery tray, and battery shield (as you can see in the picture). I have also unbolted the coolant tank and moved it to the passenger side in hopes of reaching the front stud with no luck.

How can I do this?!

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[1badrz28]

I removed the battery and the section of the tray that is removable to get those.

 

[sKyZ]

I removed the battery and the section of the tray that is removable to get those.

Yup, so did I, that's where the picture is taken from.

 

[Furious18]

Ah, when I replied to the other thread, I was talking about the drivers side. My bad!

I had to reach those from underneath the car before doing the bottom studs. At one point I had a friend hold the socket on the stud/ bolt from the bottom and I ratcheted from the top on one of the bolts. I never removed the battery or coolant tank.

You might have to pull the bottoms out and get a friend to help. The way the piping runs made a couple of the bolts go very slow with very small ratchets motion

 

[sKyZ]

Ah, when I replied to the other thread, I was talking about the drivers side. My bad!

I had to reach those from underneath the car before doing the bottom studs. At one point I had a friend hold the socket on the stud/ bolt from the bottom and I ratcheted from the top on one of the bolts. I never removed the battery or coolant tank.

You might have to pull the bottoms out and get a friend to help. The way the piping runs made a couple of the bolts go very slow with very small ratchets motion

Haha, that makes more sense now.

I just ordered an E8 ratcheting wrench from Amazon that will hopefully allow me to get the studs in and out much easier. I'm hoping that if I start with the top front stud rather than the bottom front stud, it might make things easier. Also for most of the top where I can't fit a normal ratchet, it could come in handy.

 

[Furious18]

Haha, that makes more sense now.

I just ordered an E8 ratcheting wrench from Amazon that will hopefully allow me to get the studs in and out much easier. I'm hoping that if I start with the top front stud rather than the bottom front stud, it might make things easier. Also for most of the top where I can't fit a normal ratchet, it could come in handy.

I did the same thing. I used a really small standard open ended wrench that fit instead of the e8. I can’t remember what size it was, of coarse.

 

[NC85]

What type of headers?

Like mentioned above, you should get the top studs in first before installing the bottoms. I used Kooks 1 7/8, and had to skip the stud installation on some ports due to interference with the header primary while trying to tightened the nut.

I installed the rear upper stud and front stud first to make hanging the gasket easier. Do Not tighten the rear upper stud, make that one of the last things you do.

Much of the top stud and bolt work, I got from the bottom. I used the front tire wheel well area and some really odd angles, extensions, and all kinds of stubby and long ratcheting wrenches.

2018 A10

 

[Zelek]

This is why I paid someone $500 to do mine, lol. I know I could do it. I just did NOT want to do it. Everything else though, I've self installed. Those studs can be a pita.

Not to mention one of my O2 sensors was cross threaded so that was another fun issue to deal with. Had to get a new O2.

 

[NC85]

This is why I paid someone $500 to do mine, lol. I know I could do it. I just did NOT want to do it. Everything else though, I've self installed. Those studs can be a pita.

Not to mention one of my O2 sensors was cross threaded so that was another fun issue to deal with. Had to get a new O2.

I just hope he doesn't cross thread the studs going into the head getting frustrated to finish. I thought I did on the second from front up top, but it pushed through a tough spot. Let's just say I don't plan on ever removing that one particular stud

02 sensor cross threading would be a cake walk to tap compared to the stud cross thread, but I see your point on paying for the install.

 

[sKyZ]

What type of headers?

Like mentioned above, you should get the top studs in first before installing the bottoms. I used Kooks 1 7/8, and had to skip the stud installation on some ports due to interference with the header primary while trying to tightened the nut.

I installed the rear upper stud and front stud first to make hanging the gasket easier. Do Not tighten the rear upper stud, make that one of the last things you do.

Much of the top stud and bolt work, I got from the bottom. I used the front tire wheel well area and some really odd angles, extensions, and all kinds of stubby and long ratcheting wrenches.

2018 A10

I'm installing the eBay Speed Daddy headers that people swear by. The driver side went smooth as butter. This side, it seems like everyone has issues no matter the header type.

I have not tried from the wheel well area because I have the front of the vehicle up on ramps.

 

[sKyZ]

This is why I paid someone $500 to do mine, lol. I know I could do it. I just did NOT want to do it. Everything else though, I've self installed. Those studs can be a pita.

Not to mention one of my O2 sensors was cross threaded so that was another fun issue to deal with. Had to get a new O2.

I like the feeling of accomplishment when doing it myself. However, I can now see why people pay such a high price tag to have these installed!

 

[Zelek]

I like the feeling of accomplishment when doing it myself. However, I can now see why people pay such a high price tag to have these installed!

I'll save that for when I tackle a forced induction install one day, lol.

 

[sKyZ]

I just hope he doesn't cross thread the studs going into the head getting frustrated to finish. I thought I did on the second from front up top, but it pushed through a tough spot. Let's just say I don't plan on ever removing that one particular stud

02 sensor cross threading would be a cake walk to tap compared to the stud cross thread, but I see your point on paying for the install.

I have been very careful not to cross thread and have been going really slow when putting the studs in. This is not my daily driver and I'm not in enough of a rush to risk buying a new head (and installing it).

 

[ManBearPig]

I reused all the studs on my TSP longtubes, but did have to pull 3 bottom ones out on the pass side and replace them. I can’t imagine being able to get any of the top ones back in with the header in place.

 

[sKyZ]

I reused all the studs on my TSP longtubes, but did have to pull 3 bottom ones out on the pass side and replace them. I can’t imagine being able to get any of the top ones back in with the header in place.

Do you remember which passenger side studs you had to remove?

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