I'm in on this one.Very happy to announce the first batch of the Exhibitions Of Speed Custom Titanium lug nuts for the GT350R/GT350 platform are almost here! Once this initial batch is test fitted on my car I will update with photos and start getting a list of interested parties together. The last batch were great, and I think you will all be pleased with these.
Torque spec for stock is for dry threads, so the use of anti-seize will definitely change that. I don't know what the adjustment for Ti is. Ultimately you want ~1.5% stretch in the steel stud for secure clamping. With steel on steel and lubricated threads, you'd typically take the torque value down ~35% relative to dry threads to get the same stretch (e.g., 100-110 lb-ft vs 150 lb-ft if lubricating the stock lug nuts). Someone who knows more than I do could tell you how to adjust further for Ti. I would think anti-seize is a good idea given the dissimilar metals.You know I’m in!!!
Couple questions on some things I think I recall from previous topics on titanium lugs...
Still use anti-seize? Will the torque spec change from stock?
Thanks Tob. Much credit goes to you as wellNice job T.
Sweet! @oldbmwfan basically summed it up below.You know I’m in!!!
Couple questions on some things I think I recall from previous topics on titanium lugs...
Still use anti-seize? Will the torque spec change from stock?
AwesomeI'm in on this one.
Excellent information. Most anti-seize companies will list how much to reduce the torque value based on their particular product.Torque spec for stock is for dry threads, so the use of anti-seize will definitely change that. I don't know what the adjustment for Ti is. Ultimately you want ~1.5% stretch in the steel stud for secure clamping. With steel on steel and lubricated threads, you'd typically take the torque value down ~35% relative to dry threads to get the same stretch (e.g., 100-110 lb-ft vs 150 lb-ft if lubricating the stock lug nuts). Someone who knows more than I do could tell you how to adjust further for Ti. I would think anti-seize is a good idea given the dissimilar metals.
Cool. Production will be starting soon.I'm in for a set as soon as they're ready. once again thanks for doing this for us
Welp...I've been screwing that one up! I have no excuse or justification why, but for some old reason, I had it in my head that anti-seize wasn't "lubricated". Guess I'll need to change that up, LOL. I've been torqueing my wheels with anti-seize to 140. Felt fine. Didn't feel like I was stretching the limits or anything.Torque spec for stock is for dry threads, so the use of anti-seize will definitely change that. I don't know what the adjustment for Ti is. Ultimately you want ~1.5% stretch in the steel stud for secure clamping. With steel on steel and lubricated threads, you'd typically take the torque value down ~35% relative to dry threads to get the same stretch (e.g., 100-110 lb-ft vs 150 lb-ft if lubricating the stock lug nuts). Someone who knows more than I do could tell you how to adjust further for Ti. I would think anti-seize is a good idea given the dissimilar metals.
Hey T...any estimate on delivery timeframe? Just curious.
When I researched this topic it appears to lead down several deep and dark holes. I always refer back to what @Epiphany said about the pre load needed on the stud, not so much the lug nut. Keep the OEM torque spec and then reduce by the percentage provided by the lubricant manufacturer you use.Welp...I've been screwing that one up! I have no excuse or justification why, but for some old reason, I had it in my head that anti-seize wasn't "lubricated". Guess I'll need to change that up, LOL. I've been torqueing my wheels with anti-seize to 140. Felt fine. Didn't feel like I was stretching the limits or anything.
I'll see if I can find that other thread with the conversation, but could have sworn it was about torque differences due to dissimilar metals and the titanium not needing as much torque to do the same job due to strength or something or other.
Hahahahaha...sometimes you just can't win. I started doing homework to see what Permatex may list to reduce torque by, and right there on their data sheet for the anti-seize it states not for use on wheel studs/lug nuts. So obviously they're not going to advertise a torque adjustment for it. They don't list one anyways that I can find. And the ironic part is the overwhelming amount of data out there about not using anti-seize on lug nuts . Oh well. Umpteen years and I've never had an issue. And it sounds like we support it around here. And I would tend to agree with oldbmwfan about dissimilar metals.Keep the OEM torque spec and then reduce by the percentage provided by the lubricant manufacturer you use.:-)
You sound like me lol. I'm not currently using anti seize on my lugs by I have in the past on other cars. I'd prob just come down to 125-130. 150 seems excessive even when dry.Hahahahaha...sometimes you just can't win. I started doing homework to see what Permatex may list to reduce torque by, and right there on their data sheet for the anti-seize it states not for use on wheel studs/lug nuts. So obviously they're not going to advertise a torque adjustment for it. They don't list one anyways that I can find. And the ironic part is the overwhelming amount of data out there about not using anti-seize on lug nuts . Oh well. Umpteen years and I've never had an issue. And it sounds like we support it around here. And I would tend to agree with oldbmwfan about dissimilar metals.
And this is exactly what I did. I’ll check it after a few drives just for the heck of it. A lot of folks say that about the 150, but it never felt like you were gong too far; ya know that feeling when something’s about to strip. I was always stopping at 140 anyways due to known tolerance in my wrench. I did email permatex to see if they’ll provide any specs though, but guessing not. I’ve got such a thin layer of it on my studs anyways that I can’t imagine it’ll matter that much.I'd prob just come down to 125-130. 150 seems excessive even when dry.