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GT350 & Two post lift

cking

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Recommendations for 2 post lift that get low enough to get under our 350's
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CasualGuy

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I have a Bendpak XPR-10A-LP. The LP is the low-profile model, which I think is necessary for these cars.
 

MAV

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I installed a Weaver W-9D in my shop and have had great results with all the vehicles I've had on it. At first, I built some blocks to drive the GT350 on to make it easier to get the arms under the car, but I've since figured out that I can take the pads off, swing the arms underneath, and replace the pads once the arms are under the car.

Here's the link to the lift. If you go to the Reviews section, my review is #5 on the list.
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Epiphany

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cking

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Which style the asymmetric looks interesting
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svttim

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I have height restrictions as well. I have a MaxJacks and use raceramps, easy
 

UnhandledException

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I have a bendpak hd-9, its probably the safest lift option.. i also have its rolling jack option that allows me to lift the car off the ramps. Its also nice that I can keep the lift raised and park a car underneath whereas with a 2 post lift those arms are always going to be in the way. 4 post lift is the only lift that will allow you not to drill anything to your floor (in fact its recommended against it to let it flex). All other lift options require you to drill fairly sizeable holes.

I think i looked into every type of lift from every brand, I know enough now that I could be a salesman:)

Bendpak is the only quality one that is affordable. Its not fully made in usa, some parts are done in China. Rotary/Challenger is what you want if you must have the top quality product but I believe those are more for dealers etc. bendpak is more for people like us plus indy/small shops. I never saw bendpak in a brand dealer but have seen them in gas stations, tire shops, etc.

I could have done maxjax but its far inferior from a safety and quality stand point. Bendpak is a commercial brand with all necessary certifications. Plus 4 post lift is just the safest option and that was my main reason of doing this. I initially got quickjack but realized how crappy it was and I told myself I want to be able to get under my cars without losing sleep over it. 4 post lift bendpak has multiple safety features. Each post has the capacity of carrying 9000 lbs. so even if 3 posts fail, 4th can hold the weight (obviously at an angle and not pretty but you will survive). Plus each post has two distinct safety locks. One is a backup for other. The bolts that hold the ladders which carry all the weight has each 18,000 lbs limit. The ram cylinder it comes with can lift 3 times the weight. Etc etc. its way overbuilt and all other solutions involving multiple cylinders, drilling, etc have far more failure points.

But yes 4 post lift required extra work if you want to lift the wheels which with a RJ-45 you can easily do.
 
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cking

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Too old and fat to roll around on floor any more, at that point of life i like to buy toys and tools somebody will be very happy when all my stuff gets auctioned off. Not a fan of 4 post to awkward for tire/brake/suspension even body work.
 

MAV

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The asymmetric style is handy, but unnecessary for vehicles in a shop environment that can easily be moved by hand for final adjustment. I drive up to the lift, stop before the doors will hit the posts, get out with the transmission in neutral, and push or pull it the final lifting position. Whether you drive to the center of the lift or not, you'll have to do this anyway for final adjustments.

I'm sure asymmetric lifts are fine, but I don't like the idea of the bulk of the weight of the vehicle hanging off of the back side of the posts. That puts a lot of strain on the bolts on the front of the post pads, and I would rather the weight be distributed more evenly across the arms and posts than to have the "convenience" of opening the doors without hitting the posts. Again, you're going to have to roll the car forward or back anyway to adjust it for the best lifting position, so why not just get out before the posts interfere with the doors and move it just a little further forward by hand?
 

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I have a 10k Bendpak asymmetric lift in my shop. I have been placing the pads under the pinch welds at the jacking points. I have to drive the front of the car on a 2" board to get the lift arms under the car.

From the diagrams above it looks like I should be placing the pads further under the car on the subframes. Does anyone have a picture from below showing the actual positioning of the pads?

I installed jacking rails thinking to use them for the lift points but they are not as long as the distance between jacking points so I'm not sure if that would work.
 

Epiphany

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I installed jacking rails thinking to use them for the lift points but they are not as long as the distance between jacking points so I'm not sure if that would work.
Steeda rails?
 

H@mmer

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I don't have a 350, but do have a GT, so will add my 2 cents.
I have a BendPak 2-post Asym. I love it. I wouldn't have any other style.
I have restored 3 Chevelles on it, I've worked on all my cars/trucks from C5 Corvettes to my Focus ST, my Raptor, any and all of my work vans, my new Mustang, etc etc etc.
For the Mustang, I have some small brick step stones I drive up on for extra ground clearance so I can easily swing the arms under. Soon I will be doing wheels/tires/suspension which is going to reduce my ground clearance another 1.5" so I am probably going to build a simple wooden "ramp" if you will to drive up on. No big deal.
I have been using this lift for nearly 20 years now, so I just know where to put a vehicle first time. However, I am still a safety nut. So I always lift vehicles to where all the tires are a couple inches off the ground, then go to the back bumper and rock the vehicle there to make sure it's stable enough for my liking.

For my '17 GT, I'm using some universal jackpads I got from ZL1 add-ons. I lift the front on the mounting point for the subframe, and I lift the rear at the rear pinch weld with the jackpads to protect the pinch weld.
Works perfectly. Less than 5 minutes and I can have the car in the air.
 

scannon

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Steeda rails?
Yes, the Steeda rails. A 10 minute install with the car on the lift. I don't do well laying on the floor while twisting bolts.
 

Epiphany

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Gotcha. It was your comment about the length of the rails that had me wondering who made them.
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