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GT350 styled hood for 15-17 Mustang

stangs-R-me

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There have been a couple of threads that included these hoods in the discussion, but nothing all that recent.

After 83k miles and over 4 years of daily driving my Ecoboost I've got the dreaded aluminum hood corrosion on the drivers side front corner just as my 2011 before it had after about the same time frame (a well known issue of all 2005-up Mustangs). Bubbling started to appear after 2 years, but now after 4 years I've got an open/exposed powdery area. It certainly does not pay to have my hood fixed as it is only going to come back, so I figure I'm better off replacing it with something aftermarket.


This GT350 styled hood is the 1st aftermarket hood that is understated enough and at the same time better looking than the stock hood to trip my trigger and can be found in Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Steel, AND Aluminum.

The ones I'm leaning towards is:

RK Sport 18016000 in Fiberglass
https://www.rksport.com/2015-Mustang-Hood-p/18016000.htm
or
IKON Motorsport HDM-FM15GT350 in Steel
https://www.ikonmotorsports.com/15-17-ford-mustang-2dr-gt350-style-steel-front-hood-black.html
or
MP Concepts in Aluminum
https://www.americanmuscle.com/mp-c...minum-hood-unpainted-1517-gt-ecoboost-v6.html
But what are the chances it will have the same corrosion problem as all stock Mustang hoods have had since 2005 ?? I've read this hood is actually LIGHTER than stock, but is the top surface made from the same gauge aluminum as the stock hood or is it possibly thinner and would be easier to dent in every day 4-season driving ??

I've read a few good reviews on all three of them.

There are other Fiberglass versions, but RK is the only one that claims you don't need to add HOOD PINS.

The down side to the IKON steel version is it is around double the weight of stock (60+ lbs. vs. under 30). Fiberglass ones are typically around 50 lbs. I've sent emails to both Ikon & RK to get the actual weights.

The added weight does not bother me, I just want the hood and paint to still look good in 3 years when I sell the car … not too much to ask really … or is it ??

Looking for input and experiences (pros & cons) with any of these 3 hoods.

Thanks,

Doug
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Nagare

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stangs-R-me

stangs-R-me

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You could also consider taking a copy of this to the dealer and seeing how things shake out before you commit to the new hood route:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tsb-19-2026-aluminum-panel-corrosion.117031/
I'm good friends with one of the guys in my local Ford dealer body shop and have a good relationship with the body shop supervisor, both great guys. I've discussed this with both of them with my 2011 when it had the issue as well as with this current 2016 when it first appeared after the 2nd winter. They both said it is tough getting Ford to cover it and they seldom actually replace the hood for this. Fixing the existing hood is very seldom a permanent fix anyway as it usually comes back. So what is the point ?? May as well replace the hood with fiberglass or steel. The Steel hood can be properly prepped for a much longer life span and the fiberglass one will never have the problem.


I did get replies from both RK Sport and IKON on hood weights, however neither could supply actual weights of a bare hood:

IKON says their hood is about 56 lbs. based on shipping logs.
RK Sport says their fiberglass hoods are around 30 lbs. / around 50 bs. packed for shipping.

Doug
 

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Why not a good condition OEM hood?

By the time you buy a $700 hood, have it painted you're well over 1k. A good condition stock hood in your OEM color will be half that.
 

Nagare

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So what is the point ?? May as well replace the hood with fiberglass or steel. The Steel hood can be properly prepped for a much longer life span and the fiberglass one will never have the problem.

Because if they do cover it per the TSB, it'd be free, last you another 4-5 years, then you'd be looking at another Mustang by then anyway based on your history.

I get that you want a more permanent fix, but if I was able to get it covered at no charge to me, I'd certainly try to go that route.

Regardless, if I went the fiber glass route I would be looking into pins regardless of whether it was required or not, don't want to take chances on that one manufacturer that says it isn't "required" when the other 90% do.
 

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stangs-R-me

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The corrosion first appeared during winter 2, and I've got 2 more winters to go. Also, the gal that bought my 2011 had the hood fixed and the corrosion came back within a year (she does not drive it in winter either). She had it fixed again for free, but I have not seen her since so I don't know if it came back again or not.

I also have the factory OTT stripes. Found how much replacements were when I hit a piece of double wide re-tread on the highway and had to have my bumper cover replaced. You can't just get the stripe for the B-C, it only comes as a package with the hood stripe. It was $514.23 MSRP on the repair estimate so I said don't order it for the (2) 3.5" long faded stripes you can barely see on Guard anyway. As this stripe is similar to what went on GT350's, it will just need a section trimmed out to fit the GT350 style hood so I recently picked it up for $261.25+tax+shipping (still insane for 4 pieces of vinyl). I don't want to have to replace this stripe again.

As far as a fiberglass hood with no hood pins, all factory 1994-2004 Mustangs had fiberglass hoods as have many other cars over the years so it is possible to have the latch mounting area strong enough to not require hood pins.

Doug
 
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stangs-R-me

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Because if they do cover it per the TSB, it'd be free, last you another 4-5 years, then you'd be looking at another Mustang by then anyway based on your history.

I get that you want a more permanent fix, but if I was able to get it covered at no charge to me, I'd certainly try to go that route.
I had printed off a copy of the TSB that day you posted the link but just now read through that whole thread today.

OK ... you and the others in that thread convinced me that at even at "49-50 months old & 83k miles on my ODO" I might have a shot at getting a NEW hood and not just a repair like they used to do. I have an appointment with my Ford dealer body shop manager on Friday so we'll see.

Thanks for being persistent with me !!

Doug
 
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stangs-R-me

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Regardless, if I went the fiber glass route I would be looking into pins regardless of whether it was required or not, don't want to take chances on that one manufacturer that says it isn't "required" when the other 90% do.
Sent an email to RK Sport this morning asking about the hood pin requirement as well as the W/S squirters as I had read conflicting info as the whether a "relocation kit" was required or not. Here is the reply:

"Our hoods do not require hood pins, a washer relocation kit is optional but they can be reused with some modifications. The fiberglass is indeed thicker, the upside is you can file or sand down the holes for the washer nozzle to get them to clip on. Attached is an example of how we filed it down a bit to get the washer nozzle on correctly."

So, if Ford denies the warranty this is the route I'm going ... it also helped talking to a friend today who does a lot of body work in that he'd pick fiberglass over steel.

Also, I feel the factory 17" wide Mustang O-T-T stripes are WIDER than GT350 stripes and therefore the heat extractor recess area of these GT350 styled hoods is too narrow for 17" wide stripes. The RK Sport hood does not claim to be GT350 styled and the heat extractor area is much wider ... similar to the O.E. hood spear width as can bee seen in this photo (passenger side spear closely lines up with the same spot on the pass side wiper arm as stock hood):

rk-sport-18016000-B1.jpg


vs. the IKON Steel GT350 styled hood:

IKON-GT350-Steel-Hood-3.jpg

IKON-GT350-Steel-Hood-4.jpg


 

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I had printed off a copy of the TSB that day you posted the link but just now read through that whole thread today.

OK ... you and the others in that thread convinced me that at even at "49-50 months old & 83k miles on my ODO" I might have a shot at getting a NEW hood and not just a repair like they used to do. I have an appointment with my Ford dealer body shop manager on Friday so we'll see.

Thanks for being persistent with me !!

Doug
The best part is that you're already prepared to go for the aftermarket one so it's no extra skin off your back if they deny it! I like the look of that one you posted and with fiberglass they can probably shape it a bit better, plus RK seems to be doing a good job of being responsive so far as well.

Let us know what the body shop ends up saying.
 

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Why not a good condition OEM hood?

By the time you buy a $700 hood, have it painted you're well over 1k. A good condition stock hood in your OEM color will be half that.
I think his reasoning is why he is asking about these hoods in first place. Yes you can find an OEM and be in it for less, but if it is going to corrode again, you'll have to repaint several times, costing you more in long run. Finding a fiberglass or carbon fiber version avoids corrosion and you have an opportunity to spice up look of front end. Worth the couple hundred extra dollars to me. My wife's EcoBoost has the same corrosion spot as well as a couple guys who work for me. Doesn't make since to me why this hasn't been fixed. I would keep repair receipts just in case.
 

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Why not a good condition OEM hood?
By the time you buy a $700 hood, have it painted you're well over 1k. A good condition stock hood in your OEM color will be half that.
Guess I did forget to reply to this post, so I'll add a bit more to zx2reme's reply above.

My color is GUARD and was only available in 15 & 16 plus I believe it was the least common color of either year. So finding a good used 4 to 6 year old hood that does not have the same corrosion issue or need to be repainted otherwise would be like a needle in a hay stack.

And if I were to find one, chances of it having the not available until 2016 O-T-T stripes on it too makes it an "even closer to impossible" find.

Then you have the cost of freight shipment from who knows where and you have to hope the seller packs it real nice to survive the truck shipment.

Doug
 
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The best part is that you're already prepared to go for the aftermarket one so it's no extra skin off your back if they deny it! I like the look of that one you posted and with fiberglass they can probably shape it a bit better, plus RK seems to be doing a good job of being responsive so far as well.

Let us know what the body shop ends up saying.

Well, FORD is replacing my defective hood at "no charge" under warranty ... soonest my dealer could get me in is September 1st.

Should have been sooner as the body shop manager had left me a message on July 3rd on the wrong phone number the dealer still has for me in their system. Have had them supposedly change it numerous times, but this wrong number keeps on popping back up in my contact info.

Thanks again Nagare for prodding me,

Doug
 

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That's great news! Glad it worked for you and continues to work for others in the future if they come across this thread.
 
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Just picked my car up with it's "brand new no cost to me hood" at 86k miles & 4.5 years old.

The body shop manager was not aware until now that Ford was doing the hood replacement on Mustangs so mine was the 1st for them. They have however done quite a few on 2016-2017 Explorers.

Bonus for me is I had bought the $424.11 MSRP hood & bumper cover stripe set (back when I was not aware of the warranty and thinking I was going to replace the hood myself) and I was reimbursed for it. I paid $306.37 delivered and they gave me a check back for $332.50 ... a $26.13 profit !!

Plus, they sent it out to have the stripes put on and since the car was low on fuel (maybe 25 mi to E) they put a few gallons of free gas in it too.

Paint job is top notch & paint match is dead on. Stripe installation looks as good as the original too. Could not be happier with the result.

Doug
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