GT350 LE...you don't see this every day!

[JWS]

Gale Halderman and John Clor

At Indy with Mustang Designer Gale Halderman and Ford Performance's and Author, John Clor.

Sponsored

 

[BmacIL]

Wow! What a project. It looks fantastic. Just needs GT350 springs and some dampers to lower it 10 mm all around.

 

[Zodiac]

Beautiful! Horrified to learn the cost of all of that.

 

[Voo Doo]

Beautiful! Horrified to learn the cost of all of that.

It's a hobby.......can anyone really put a dollar sign on a hobby of love?? I'm always asked how much for your labor.....it's free on our own cars!

So......if you like the idea on a GT or LE but can't mechanically/ electrically do it yourself......buy a GT350 done! Same price when all in. IMHO?

JW?..extremely well done my friend, you should be very proud!!! :cheers::cheers: EH!!

 

[RalphHood3]

JWS, thanks for taking all the time to document the parts needed as well as all the pictures! I knew it would be more than just the sheet metal, but holy moses all the parts in the list! :-)

One more question, can you give me the details on how you programmed the rear backup sensors in the back bumper to function? I've been working with my dealer to try and get them working on my LE with Forscan or the actual Ford programmer, but we've not gotten it to work. I'd love to get the rear parking sensors to work on my LE and then maybe try to tackle getting adaptive cruise control working. Those are the 2 features I wish they would have included on the LE's.

Your build is amazing and you should be very proud of it as I'm sure you are! Well done!!!

Ralph

 

[JWS]

Future Mods

JWS, thanks for taking all the time to document the parts needed as well as all the pictures! I knew it would be more than just the sheet metal, but holy moses all the parts in the list! :-)

One more question, can you give me the details on how you programmed the rear backup sensors in the back bumper to function? I've been working with my dealer to try and get them working on my LE with Forscan or the actual Ford programmer, but we've not gotten it to work. I'd love to get the rear parking sensors to work on my LE and then maybe try to tackle getting adaptive cruise control working. Those are the 2 features I wish they would have included on the LE's.

Your build is amazing and you should be very proud of it as I'm sure you are! Well done!!!

Ralph

Thanks Ralph!

I'll be working with my local dealer to try too. Will be waiting until I finish with the Illuminated Door Sills.

As others on the Forum have pointed out. You may have to Scan a car with the installed options. The Sills just require a change of one hex digit in the Rear Body Control Module. I'm hoping the Backup Sensors will be the same. Adaptive Cruise Control will require changing out the Switch Module in the Steering Wheel, adding the LED Dash Module and the Defroster Strip (which hopefully won't require removing the Dash - but at least the Window Pillar Covers) run a wire Harness up to the Mirror, and change the Windshield to provide a mount and eyehole for the Rain Sensing Wiper Module. I was going to do all this, but decided to wait for the 2018, which will have Lane Assist and Brake Assist, along with the Programming for the Magneride, Active Exhaust, as well as have the Digital Dash and Leather Console. The Windshield should be different too. Also, the GT350 Oil Pressure Gauge was automatically recognized by the System. This may go through the PCM via the Can Bus. Don't recall, because I didn't have to do more research once it started working on Powerup.

The ACC needs to have the Radar and its wire Harness down by the Left Brake Duct. Because I've modified the Front End, the Radar Mounting Bracket will have to be Modified to clear the Duct, although it shouldn't be in the way of the Fangs. Don't know how the Composite and Plastic Mesh Material will affect the Radar Transmission and Reception, compared with the Plastic Grill Window on the LE. Probably will require me to Fabricate a Mounting like I did for the Fog Lights. If the new GT500 has a different Front End, it may have some parts to mount the new Turn Signal/Fog Lights, that would free up some room in the Oil Cooler Duct area for the Radar. However, I really like the way my Fog Lights turned-out, and don't want to change them. They really worked great on the trip up to Indy, out to Kansas, back to Michigan and home to Florida. I had about 4,000 miles on the car before the trip. The trip added another 4,000. Just went over 10,000 last week.

 

[JWS]

Back to the place of its Birth!

Flat Rock! After some Plastic Surgery and a few Metal Implants!

 

[RalphHood3]

Thanks Ralph!

I'll be working with my local dealer to try too. Will be waiting until I finish with the Illuminated Door Sills.

As others on the Forum have pointed out. You may have to Scan a car with the installed options. The Sills just require a change of one hex digit in the Rear Body Control Module. I'm hoping the Backup Sensors will be the same. Adaptive Cruise Control will require changing out the Switch Module in the Steering Wheel, adding the LED Dash Module and the Defroster Strip (which hopefully won't require removing the Dash - but at least the Window Pillar Covers) run a wire Harness up to the Mirror, and change the Windshield to provide a mount and eyehole for the Rain Sensing Wiper Module. I was going to do all this, but decided to wait for the 2018, which will have Lane Assist and Brake Assist, along with the Programming for the Magneride, Active Exhaust, as well as have the Digital Dash and Leather Console. The Windshield should be different too. Also, the GT350 Oil Pressure Gauge was automatically recognized by the System. This may go through the PCM via the Can Bus. Don't recall, because I didn't have to do more research once it started working on Powerup.

The ACC needs to have the Radar and its wire Harness down by the Left Brake Duct. Because I've modified the Front End, the Radar Mounting Bracket will have to be Modified to clear the Duct, although it shouldn't be in the way of the Fangs. Don't know how the Composite and Plastic Mesh Material will affect the Radar Transmission and Reception, compared with the Plastic Grill Window on the LE. Probably will require me to Fabricate a Mounting like I did for the Fog Lights. If the new GT500 has a different Front End, it may have some parts to mount the new Turn Signal/Fog Lights, that would free up some room in the Oil Cooler Duct area for the Radar. However, I really like the way my Fog Lights turned-out, and don't want to change them. They really worked great on the trip up to Indy, out to Kansas, back to Michigan and home to Florida. I had about 4,000 miles on the car before the trip. The trip added another 4,000. Just went over 10,000 last week.

Even more good info, you pre-answered a bunch of questions I had about adaptive cruise control, thanks!

For the rear sensors, it's not as easy as the lighted door sills (we got those enabled about a year ago). There's multiple places you need to edit for the rear sensors. It's the audio module to get the car image with the backup stripes to appear in the top right of the camera screen when in reverse, enabling the menus in the gauge cluster to turn them on and off, and then enabling the sensors themselves. We got everything enabled in the cluster and the audio module for displaying the image, but couldn't get past throwing a fault code and the sensors working. If you have any ideas or get past that point, please let me know!

Shameless plug for the dealer that did my install and some of the mods on my LE if you're interested: http://www.bickfordperformance.com/?p=1361

 

[JWS]

Even more good info, you pre-answered a bunch of questions I had about adaptive cruise control, thanks!

For the rear sensors, it's not as easy as the lighted door sills (we got those enabled about a year ago). There's multiple places you need to edit for the rear sensors. It's the audio module to get the car image with the backup stripes to appear in the top right of the camera screen when in reverse, enabling the menus in the gauge cluster to turn them on and off, and then enabling the sensors themselves. We got everything enabled in the cluster and the audio module for displaying the image, but couldn't get past throwing a fault code and the sensors working. If you have any ideas or get past that point, please let me know!

Shameless plug for the dealer that did my install and some of the mods on my LE if you're interested: http://www.bickfordperformance.com/?p=1361

Thanks Ralph. It'll be a week or two before I have time to take the car in. If you have been able to enable Gauge Cluster Menus, then that means we should be able to eventually enable Digital Speed there from the GT350. That is one Reason I have a HUD hooked-up to the OBDII Port. I could also delay the Digital Dash a while longer. I can't see the Speedometer that well when I have the Seat and Wheel adjusted to my liking. That, plus the Parallax error because the Gauges aren't canted towards the Driver's eyes.

I've only briefly looked at the Wiring Diagrams in the Maintenance Manual to check all the Bus Connections for the other Systems. I was amazed at how different the Fuse Boxes are, when I Swapped them. Haven't had a chance to see which Fuses or Relays are included, or not, for each Vehicle.


Update:

I Installed the GT350 Instrument Cluster and it Provided Digital Speed, similar to how the Analog Cars from 2018+ work, but it was not Compatible with the Software and had a Current Leak and Door Chime Issues that were a Real Pain. Loved the Digital Speed, but the Menus were a Problem too. Obtained some 350 Features while losing GT Features (after having had it Programmed).
Plus, No PRNDS Indication in the 350 Cluster, because the Circuit Board has Empty Pads where the LEDs are mounted on the GT Auto Circuit Board.

Decided not to get the 18+ Analog Cluster.

When I obtained the Digital Dash and Sync 3 Upgrade, all those Problems went away. Only things not Working are the Reverse/Backup Sensors and the Adaptive Cruise Control.

Still not Sure on the Backup Sensors, but the Adaptive Cruise Requires Installation of the Radar and Wire Harness To Complete the Modification.

Digital Dash Installation:

Installed the Steering Column Control Module (SCCM) which is part of the Turn Signal/Wiper Switch Module that also contains the Clock Spring. Had to remove the Paddle Shift Extensions because they blocked the Airbag Access Holes, in order to remove the Steering Wheel. Looking for a different Paddle Shift Solution in the future. Changed out the Steering Wheel Switches with those of the 18+ Cars, which contain the Adaptive Cruise Control Switches. (Still don't have Adaptive Cruise, even though Sam Programmed everything for it, because I haven't installed the Radar, Mount & Wire Harness. I do get the indications in the Digital Cluster, but cannot select it. Similar to the Backup Sensors) Got these through Sam at Hellhorse, along with the Digital Dash Display and the Sync 3 Upgrade. Both the new Displays are Very Nice and make a long drive much more relaxing. Touch Screen on the Nav Display is much more natural to use, like your phone.

Went the extra mile and found a 2018+ Dash on eBay and cut out the Digital Instrument Cluster Mounting Plate. Very difficult to install, but really gives the Cluster a solid mount and for the first time since receiving the car, all the pieces of my Dash line up.

This Piece is not available separately. It is a sub-section of the complete Dash. Would have been nice to have the part scanned to be able to make parts for those who want to do the Digital Dash Upgrade. Would be even better if we could find out the Manufacturer of the Part and be able to obtain them separately.

Installed the Bang & Olufsen Dash Speaker Grill from a newer Premium GT, which I think is a little more upscale than the ribbed OEM piece.

Finally installed the Carbon Fiber Brake Handle and Shift Lever. Also installed an Anodized Black Stainless Trim on the vertical machined part of the Shift Lever. Permanently installed the Carbon Fiber Overlays over the PRNDS after wrapping the original plastic with Clear Tape, which gives the whole thing a glossy appearance. Changed out the Chrome Sync-Powered By Microsoft Trim Ring with the newer ring that just has Sync Engraved in it.

Installed the 2016 Chrome Lincoln Continental Engine Start Stop Switch. It is completely different from the Mustang Switch and had to file down both the Mustang and Lincoln Buttons to mount the Lincoln over the top of the Mustang Button in order to make it illuminate properly. It doesn't Pulse like the newer Switches, because I believe there is a different circuit board and software behind the Start/Mode Switch Panel. Also Installed a Chrome Trim Piece around the Mode Switches.

Replaced the Power Outlet with the Ford Cigarette Lighter Kit. I don't Smoke, but I thought it might come in hand someday to have a source of fire, as I don't carry a lighter. Besides, I can still use it as a Power Outlet and it checks off one more item on the Every Possible Option List that was or is available on the S550 Mustangs.

Finished the Driver's Side Sill Plate by installing the rectangular Polished Stainless Trim from the American Car Craft Illuminated Sills. Added a Brushed Stainless Piece over the top of that, which has the same shape as the original Black Plastic Sill. This piece came from China.

I have some White EL Wire, that glows Blue, similar to the Blue I have set the Sills to. I plan to install this under the Polished Stainless Trim, for a continuous glow. This is different from the American Car Craft LEDs which have the multiple dotted light appearance that reflects from under the trim piece.
To make this work, I will have to splice the EL harness into the Ford Sill Harness Power and Ground leads. The EL wire has its own control box that supplies the proper voltage from the 12 Volt Sill Harness. All the light is very nice at night, but gets washed out in daylight, as does the sill light.

After 46,000 miles, I replaced the Rear P-Zeros. I ordered some front tires too, because they are wearing on the inboard edge, probably because of the extra arm length from the one inch wheel spacers. Can't really complain, as the mileage also included several track day sessions at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. Except for the inboard tire wear, they still look almost new on the main contact patch.

Getting some Brake Drag noise which goes away with brake application. Will check the pads, but may live with the noise until I change out the Rotors and Calipers for the 350 Brake Set. Stil not sure on how I want to implement this as the rears require a quarter inch spacer for the spokes to clear the calipers. They stick out further than I like, for appearance purposes.

(Turns out I was Distracted and Didn't Torque the Front Wheels before my Test Drive. So much for the Nosies coming from the Front!)

Exhaust is still waiting until I can get to everything, because I have to pull the front end off with the belly pan, in one piece. Will install the Shelby Turn Signal/Fog Lights at that time also.

All that Will be put on hold if I can get my customizer to do some sheet metal mods, which has a greater priority over the brakes and exhaust.


Update: 5 April 2021

Replaced my Billet Paddle Extensions with 3D Printed Aluminum Touring Paddles from Miguel Vargas, the Designer and Founder of Material Speed Designs. Found them on the 6G Website.

A lot of Sanding and Polishing and not quite finished with them yet, but mounted them for the MCA's 45th Anniversary National Show at Road Atlanta, this last Weekend.

3D Printed Aluminum on the Left. Just getting started with Sanding on the Right

Mostly Finished!

After Mounting

Longer Horns make them more Visible.

Before the Paddle Shifter Mod. Carbon Fiber Knee Bolster on the Center Console along with Carbon Storage Box Cover and Carbon Console End Cap. Shifter Bezel has Carbon Overlays, as does the Elbow/Armrest Area of the Rear Seats. Carbon-Look Flexible Inserts in the Door Handle Bowls.

Earlier Version with OEM Plastic Paddles

Final Version of Door Sill Appearance. More Electrical and Lighting Work ahead on these.

Completed Center Console Stack.

Combination of OEM Button Switch on the Console, the GT350 Button and 2016 Lincoln Continental Button Assembly. Unfortunately, the Lincoln Button Assembly is more Complex and requires a lot of cutting and filing to Blend the Top of the Lincoln Button with the Bottom of the GT350 Button, so that it mounts on the OEM Button Switch Base. .

After the Super Glue to make one Complete Button.

Blue Oval's S197 Radio Stack Trim was Flattened and Cut to match the S550 Mode Switches and Modified Start Button.

Before and After

After completion of Center Console Mods and Sync 3 Upgrade. You can also see the Carbon Fiber Shift Knob with a Gloss Black Annodized Insert on the Shaft.

Big Improvement in Usability with Sync 3. New Display Touch Screen is so much easier to use.

Photo from eBay of older Dash with Analog Mount Plate

Photo from eBay of newer Dash with Digital Mount Plate

Analog Mount Plate

Digital Mount Plate

Differences on Newer Mount Plate that Supports both Analog and Digital Displays

Not a Crack, just a Reflection. Auto PRNDS Film from Original GT Cluster Not Illuminated because the 350 Cluster does not have LEDs installed on the Circuit Board.

Test Fit of 350 Analog Cluster and Bullitt Digital Cluster on the New Mount Plate

After Cutting the Analog Mount on the LE. Very messy and Poor Support for the New Cluster

Believe this is the Bullitt Cluster Installed On the Cut Mount Plate.

Hey - It Works! Think this is the GT Cluster Installed on the New Plate. Bullitt Cluster had a Bad Video Chip or Display. Sam sent me a new GT Cluster, but forgot I had the Bullitt Cluster. Instead of sending it back, I asked him if I could keep it until I could exchange it for the Mach1 Cluster when it becomes available. The new Cluster should be more compatible with the Future Mods I'm planning.

Digital Plate I separated from the Dash I obtained in Orlando at a Part-Out House - Couple Hundred Bucks for a $10 Piece?

Wrestled getting this thing in, with a lot of Pushing, Pulling and Bending. Was gonna be a Temporary Fit and Bond the Tabs later, but it was so hard to get in, I didn't want to risk Breaking the Lower Dash or the Mount Plate getting it out and Re-Installing it. Still - Pretty Solid and much Firmer (no rattle) and Secure for the Cluster Mount. Also allowed for Adjustment of the Cluster enough for the Dash Trim to Install with better alignment than when it came from the Factory.

The Aluminum Trim, the Cluster, The Radio Display and the Radio Grille and Dash Pads never Aligned or Fit Correctly when the Car was Delivered.

The First Time I Removed the Original Cluster, I noticed a Plastic Peg on the Carpet. Apparently it came from the Lower Right Cluster Mount. The Lower Left Peg was intact. I believe that this Peg was Broken at the Factory During the Cluster/Dash Install and was trapped in place until I pulled the Cluster. Without this Peg, the Cluster can droop, or rotate Clockwise, which will pull the Left Side Trim Down to fit around the Cluster Trim Ring. The Right Side Trim is also pulled down to fit around the other Cluster Trim Ring. As a result, the Dash Trim on the Right pulled away from the Radio Grill and from the Cluster Trim Ring. I could push them into place with some force, but they would always pull apart after a while. Very poor Fit and Finish, but probably not something you would notice right away at the factory, except for the separation of the Trim from the Radio Grille, which had a Big Gap. Just like the Poor Quality Control on Mounting the Left Side Door and Fender, with beyond Engineering Tolerances, The Front Bumper Cover to Hood Gap and Alignment, and the Hole in the Roof Drip Rail that managed to get through Assembly and Paint. Also, the Rear Glass that has the Droop at the Upper Left. In addition, the the Rear Bumper Cover doesn't Match the Rear Quarter Panels at the Rear Lights and the Plastic Trunk Panel never aligned with the Plastic on the Tail Light Units.

Some of these mismatches were due to Quality Control at the Factory, others were Engineering Failures that weren't caught before production. Some were rectified on the 2018+ redesign, others still Exist.

The Rear Bumper Cover to Quarter Panel Alignment Mismatch was actually Engineered in, but seems to have been taken care of with the new Bumper design, as I doubt they changed the Quarter Panel Stamping. This is probably why the Convertibles don't seem to have this problem.

The Trunk Panel Plastic could not be aligned with with the Tail Light Unit Plastic without pulling the Trunk out of alignment with the Quarter Panels. It is better on the newer cars, I'm guessing because they designed a new Trunk Panel, with the slot in the middle on both sides of the Trunk Badge. Once again, the Convertible Trunk Panel to Tail Light Panel and the Trunk To Quarter Panel Alignments don't seem to have this problem, because the Trunk Stamping is Different between the 2 models.

The Front Bumper to Hood Gap bugged me from the very beginning, especially when I saw other cars with almost no gap. When I installed the GT350 Radiator Support, Bumper Cover and Hood and Fenders, I was amazed that I had finally solved the gap problem. When I finally got around to installing the 350 Cooling Shroud, I found I had to obtain the 350 Aluminum Bumper to get it to fit. This pushed the Bumper Cover out just a bit, but the bumper cover attach pegs and screws weren't altered, so don't think that was a problem. However, installing the 350 Splitter and Belly Pan might have Pulled the whole Front End Down enough to bring back the gap. This must also have been the problem with the original GT Parts. This has got to be a Structural Alignment Problem with the sub structure during the build process. Not all cars seem to have the same problems.

Door To Fender Alighment was just poor Quality Control that should have been caught after install.

The Rear Glass is still with us and varies on what car you're looking at, but still droops a lot, or a little at the upper left.

The Hole in the Roof was inexcusable. I keep it though, to show people what we were dealing with on the new cars, at the beginning.

Most of the other problems have now been solved through better Quality Control in Engineering or Manufacturing, or through the Re-Design of Parts on the newer Models

One thing, however, I would like Ford to know about after looking at the new Cars at the Central Florida Auto Show in November. The Mach-e looks MUCH BETTER in person than the Photos. And, I already liked the way it looked. BUT, the new Mach-e Rear Seats are too Upright and have no Recline Option. The Small Lincoln SUV Rear Seats do have an Adjustment. Hate to be on a long 230-270 mile trip in that car, being forced to sit in the back. Maybe they can make another version with Captains Chairs with nice Armrests. Look at the Pacifica Hybrid Middle Row Seats to see the most comfortable and adjustable seats I've been in that are relatively small and would fit the Mach-e. The Rear Storage wouldn't suffer that much more anyway. Design more of an angle into whatever is behind the seats (Battery/Motor?)

Also add a Retractable Sun Shade! And Nav Sat Maps to the Drivers Display, like Audi. Also, Blind Spot Video on the Driver's Display, like Hyundai! And Park Aid!

Might as well Check All the Boxes.

Latest Update: April - June 2021

Have Installed the Lanmodo Night Vision Display/Camera and Rear View Camera. Can Toggle Between them on the Display. Had a Problem with the Ford GPS/Mapping Software, because the GPS Antenna I Installed with the Sync 3 Upgrade is apparently Blocked by the Display on top of the Radio/Speaker Grille. May have to Relocate the Antenna to avoid this problem. Seems Going North the Antenna is getting good Satellite Coverage, but South or East and West, there is a Blockage. Could be the Antenna supplied with the Kit is the Problem, as it is a different Shape from the Sync 2 Antenna, and may be more Susceptible to Interference. Would like to move it on top of the Car somehow, but will wait for Other Mods to Solve this.

Update from October 2021:

Talked with Sam at Hellhorse and he suggested the $25 F-150 GPS Nav Antenna.

installed the new Antenna while I was replacing the Cabin Air Filter. The Cable on the new Antenna is much shorter than the one originally supplied with the Sync 3 Upgrade Kit. Don’t have to bundle and ty the excess Wire with this one. The Anntenna Module is also Screwed into the 90 degree Ground Plane Bracket. Kind of forced the 90 into the Slot from the Factory Ground Plane. It appears the 1st Antenna Module, with the Magnetic Base had slid off the Ground Plane. Shouldn’t have that problem anymore, as the new Installation is a tight fit and doesn't move around.

Of course I had to remove the Sync Diplay/APIM to get access to the rear GPS Connector on the Unit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092SJ2NW8/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A285RT7EC96NB5&psc=1

The Dash Cam has no effect on the Nav either


Can report that everything is now working properly. Over 2,000 Miles Now with no GPS Fail on the Display Screen. Nice to have two sources of GPS back. Use the phone, not plugged into the Car USB, but an Adapter, so it doesn’t want to takeover the Screen. Then use the Sync 3 Nav as a backup.



Also, because I have upgraded to the Digital Display with the Adaptive Cruise Pieces/Parts, I have no Indication in the Display that the Cruise Control is Engaged, or what the Cruise Speed is When Engaged. Hopefully when the Radar and Wire Harness are Installed, the Indications will Show up in the Display. And also Hope I will be able to select the ACC in the Menus. Right now, the Option is in the Menu, but Can't be Selected. When I engage the Cruise Control, a Warning Note Pops up on the Display and says that the Adaptive Cruise is not available. Don't so much mind this, but it Blocks the Rest of the Screen and won't go away until you Hit the OK Button.

Update On 26 Jan 23

Last Fall, after the last MCA National
Show, stopped in St. Louis to see Sam at Hellhorse to Swap Out the Regular Digital Instrument Cluster for the Mach1 Cluster. The Older Cluster was suffering from Display Dropouts, or Not Powering Up On Start.

Have Not had the Power Problems with the New Display, but haven’t really gone anywhere lately. Will see how it works on the trip to New Mexico this Summer.

I had Sam Program the New Display Without the Adaptive Cruise Control Option for the Time Being. I prefer to be able to see the Cruise Control Indicator on the Display and that won’t show up with the Adaptive Cruise Programmed. Since it will be a while before I can get the Power Pigtail, Bracket and Radar Antenna Installed, I’m tired of the ACC Not Available Warning Notice Blocking the Rest of the Display until Acknowledged. In addition, the Cruise Control Indicator would Not Display when Cruise was Engaged.

Without the ACC Programmed, it now acts like a Normal Cruise Should.

There are differences from the Cruise with the Original Analog Cluster and the Digital Cluster on my ‘21 Escape.

When Cruise is Engaged, the Cruise Indicator is Displayed, but not the Speed. Additionally, while the Escape could bump the Speed Up or Down in 5 MPH Increments, the Mustang will Now only move Up or Down as long as you Hold the Switch. No 5 MPH Increments.

Also, disappointing that the Cruise Speed is Not Displayed. Guessing that if you Engage Cruise, Ford thinks you already have a Digital Speedometer that doesn’t Change, so that is your Cruise Speed Indicator.

However, I did find that if you cycle the Mode Switch to the Display that has the Horizontal RPM Indicator, there is a Small Digital Cruise Speed Indicator just below the Tach on the Right Side.

You would think Ford could Update the Software to give you the Digital Cruise Speed In All Display Modes.

Maybe they could even give you the 5 MPH Incremental Cruise Speed Bump the Escape has.

I’ll post some Photos of the Display when I can get some more Trip Time.

 

[JWS]

HQ

LE - On the Rocks!

 

[Mustang_GT]

Awesome

MY 21ST CENTURY VERSION OF A LUXURY MUSTANG

I love it! Nice work.

 

[Mustang_GT]

Awesome!

Thanks Ralph!

I'll be working with my local dealer to try too. Will be waiting until I finish with the Illuminated Door Sills.

As others on the Forum have pointed out. You may have to Scan a car with the installed options. The Sills just require a change of one hex digit in the Rear Body Control Module. I'm hoping the Backup Sensors will be the same. Adaptive Cruise Control will require changing out the Switch Module in the Steering Wheel, adding the LED Dash Module and the Defroster Strip (which hopefully won't require removing the Dash - but at least the Window Pillar Covers) run a wire Harness up to the Mirror, and change the Windshield to provide a mount and eyehole for the Rain Sensing Wiper Module. I was going to do all this, but decided to wait for the 2018, which will have Lane Assist and Brake Assist, along with the Programming for the Magneride, Active Exhaust, as well as have the Digital Dash and Leather Console. The Windshield should be different too. Also, the GT350 Oil Pressure Gauge was automatically recognized by the System. This may go through the PCM via the Can Bus. Don't recall, because I didn't have to do more research once it started working on Powerup.

The ACC needs to have the Radar and its wire Harness down by the Left Brake Duct. Because I've modified the Front End, the Radar Mounting Bracket will have to be Modified to clear the Duct, although it shouldn't be in the way of the Fangs. Don't know how the Composite and Plastic Mesh Material will affect the Radar Transmission and Reception, compared with the Plastic Grill Window on the LE. Probably will require me to Fabricate a Mounting like I did for the Fog Lights. If the new GT500 has a different Front End, it may have some parts to mount the new Turn Signal/Fog Lights, that would free up some room in the Oil Cooler Duct area for the Radar. However, I really like the way my Fog Lights turned-out, and don't want to change them. They really worked great on the trip up to Indy, out to Kansas, back to Michigan and home to Florida. I had about 4,000 miles on the car before the trip. The trip added another 4,000. Just went over 10,000 last week.

Sill plate illumination is a simple change (Using FORscan). I haven't given up on the rear sensors. It is more than a simple change after plugging the sensors and harness in. The APIM will have to have a change I think (audible beep), the Instrument Cluster (I did get that to recognize it but couldn't select) and the BCM too. If Imfigure it out I'll post it.
Thanks for sharing!

 

[JWS]

Sill plate illumination is a simple change (Using FORscan). I haven't given up on the rear sensors. It is more than a simple change after plugging the sensors and harness in. The APIM will have to have a change I think (audible beep), the Instrument Cluster (I did get that to recognize it but couldn't select) and the BCM too. If Imfigure it out I'll post it.
Thanks for sharing!

With the Transmission and Engine Controlled by the Powertrain Control Module, could there be Software there for the Sensors activated by the Transmission Shifting into Reverse?

 

[Mustang_GT]

Reverse sensors

With the Transmission and Engine Controlled by the Powertrain Control Module, could there be Software there for the Sensors activated by the Transmission Shifting into Reverse?

Certainly makes sense. But, I did get the IPC to see it when I put it in reverse, I just couldn't select enabled/disabled. It would just let me scroll to both. I will keep digging.
For Ralph's, I was looking for a 50yr Mustang with an automatic and backup sensors. I looked online and looked at 35+ vins trying to find a match. Got close, but not close enough. Yet.

 

[JWS]

Certainly makes sense. But, I did get the IPC to see it when I put it in reverse, I just couldn't select enabled/disabled. It would just let me scroll to both. I will keep digging.
For Ralph's, I was looking for a 50yr Mustang with an automatic and backup sensors. I looked online and looked at 35+ vins trying to find a match. Got close, but not close enough. Yet.

Right Kevin, none of the 50 Year cars came with 4 Options available on the other cars. They are Illuminated Door Sills, Reverse/Backup Sensors and Adaptive Cruise Control with Rain Sensing Wipers.

The Fourth, I can't remember. Don't know if it was the Rain Sensing part of the ACC or the Black Roof Paint, or something else.

So far, only the Door Sills have been activated on this forum.

The Wire Harness for the Illuminated Sills and Reverse/Backup Sensors is already in place. ACC/Rain Sensing Wipers needs quite a bit of hardware to enable, from the Radar and Brackets, to Steering Wheel Switches and a Different Windshield and Sensor and Dash LED Indicator (same as the GT350, but different color and operation) and the Defroster Strip/Bezel. Don't really know about some of the harnesses. The Dash one may be there. The Radar needs a sub-harness as does the Rain Sensor.

Don't know if Ford decided it was just too much money for the 50th, as it would have pushed the MSRP into the $50K range. Could also be they didn't want the Reverse Sensors cluttering up the clean rear bumper cover.

Anyways, it's a practical, worthy and kind of fun quest to build your car with every available option offered on the 2015 cars.

(It would also be Neat to have the Motorized Retracting Side Mirrors of the Euro Cars)

Want to make it FULLY-LOADED!

Dash LED Harness and Connector are there and Connect to the LED Module. Of course, it needs Software to work, also, even though it shows up in the GT350 Instrument Cluster. Appears to be the same Module for both the 350 HUD Tach or Adaptive Cruise HUD Interval Indicator.

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