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GT350 Carbon Ceramic Brakes - 2022 Update

yomamma219

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Well to each their own I guess. I would hope if the OP spent that much on the brakes that means they have started exhausting other less expensive performance mods. Congrats on what I am sure is a great track car and a blast to drive in general!
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Darkane

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For 32lbs in weight savings and the slight increase in braking isn't enough to out weight the the $5,700 price tag. You can buy SS brake lines, better brakes and fluid and come close. Not to mention that a carbon fiber driveshaft with net you pretty close to the 30lbs range in weight savings and that's only $1,100.

Don't get me wrong, they look awesome and I wish I had them. I just feel like $5,700 can be better spent to improve the whole car.
I thought the carbon shaft was good for 18-20lbs. Also not to get overly mathy but the moment of inertia and gyration (I, mk, that stuff) says a larger rotation will reduce the moment more. IE: a wheel with a larger diameter that has less weight at the edge will be more beneficial. A driveshaft carries the weight very close to its centre and therefore you won't see much benefit over say removing 20-30lbs of in car weight. It'll help a bit. CCM is a larger difference and wheels larger yet.
 

Mach4.6

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For 32lbs in weight savings and the slight increase in braking isn't enough to out weight the the $5,700 price tag. You can buy SS brake lines, better brakes and fluid and come close. Not to mention that a carbon fiber driveshaft with net you pretty close to the 30lbs range in weight savings and that's only $1,100.

Don't get me wrong, they look awesome and I wish I had them. I just feel like $5,700 can be better spent to improve the whole car.
I thought the carbon shaft was good for 18-20lbs. Also not to get overly mathy but the moment of inertia and gyration (I, mk, that stuff) says a larger rotation will reduce the moment more. IE: a wheel with a larger diameter that has less weight at the edge will be more beneficial. A driveshaft carries the weight very close to its centre and therefore you won't see much benefit over say removing 20-30lbs of in car weight. It'll help a bit. CCM is a larger difference and wheels larger yet.

The stock driveshaft is 30.2 lbs the CF is 21.2 lbs
 

Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
The OP is a pretty sharp guy that has helped me out with some technical expertise where nobody else could. I have no doubt he has a good grasp on the cost to benefit analyses with respect to the aforementioned hardware. I look forward to his experience with these with quite a bit of anticipation.
 

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Zitrosounds

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No doubt!!! I am looking forward to his review and data. I know many local 911 owners that wish they did not have the CCB. They swear the CCB eat pads and rotors wear fast. I know there are many variables when it comes to break/rotor wear. But as the OP mentioned, somebody had to be first ; )
 

Zombo

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It's not going to be easy keeping the rotor temps below 1300F in a 4000lbs car (with driver) slowing from 150mph down to 50mph (let's say at VIR) with rotors that weigh half of what the OEMs weigh. Based on a quick survey of materials, it looks like the Specific Heat (Cp) of these CCB materials is slightly better that that of cast iron (which is good), but not nearly double?
 

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Since the carbon rotors typically have less bite do you have any concern about bias issues when keeping the stock iron rears?
 
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JAJ

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So here's why I did this: the two rotors and a set of pads cost about the same as a pair of front CF GT350R rims. For that, you get a weight reduction of 16 pounds per side, which is the same weight reduction as switching from stock GT350 rims with MPSS's to stock CF GT350R rims with MPSC2's. The difference is that this weight reduction is permanent. It's always there regardless of the rim/tire combo I'm using. On that basis, it's way more cost effective than three or four sets of CF rims.

Should I have a lunatic moment and buy a set of CF rims, then I'll have a 32 pound reduction on the front axle. Talk about anti-gravity!
 

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JAJ

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Since the carbon rotors typically have less bite do you have any concern about bias issues when keeping the stock iron rears?
As a test of the street pads, I hammered the brakes and got them into ABS and they're fine. I might pick up a set of low-dust rear pads (Corvette C6 rears fit) just so I don't have dusty rear rims and clean front ones, but other than that, it's all good.

For track use I understand that I'll actually gain about 10% in mu on the front axle with race pads because of the rotor change. That's not enough to be noticeable.
 
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JAJ

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Going back over the responses in the thread, I should probably explain that after 15 years of tracking various cars, my approach to brakes is much pretty flexible. "Horses for courses" is a good description.

If I know that I'm to be at a track that's hard on brakes, I plan for it and run the right brakes for that track. For instance, given how easy the GT350 pads and rotors are to change, I might pick up a set of Girodisc rotors for those times when I'm going to a track that would be too demanding for the CCB's. Or maybe I'll switch back to the stock rotors. In any case, to me, switching back to iron is a practical matter, not an admission of defeat.
 

firestarter2

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So here's why I did this: the two rotors and a set of pads cost about the same as a pair of front CF GT350R rims. For that, you get a weight reduction of 16 pounds per side, which is the same weight reduction as switching from stock GT350 rims with MPSS's to stock CF GT350R rims with MPSC2's. The difference is that this weight reduction is permanent. It's always there regardless of the rim/tire combo I'm using. On that basis, it's way more cost effective than three or four sets of CF rims.

Should I have a lunatic moment and buy a set of CF rims, then I'll have a 32 pound reduction on the front axle. Talk about anti-gravity!
But loosing weight close to the center of the wheel is less advantageous then
loosing from the outside and you rotors will at some point need to be replaced.

Do these make less dust also?

Not knocking your purchase if I had the money I might do this route.
 
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JAJ

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But loosing weight close to the center of the wheel is less advantageous then
loosing from the outside and you rotors will at some point need to be replaced.

Do these make less dust also?

Not knocking your purchase if I had the money I might do this route.
I believe that there are two factors at work - the rotating mass and the plain ordinary mass. You're right, the rotating mass effect (angular momentum reduction) will be less with the CCB's than with CF rims. It affects acceleration and braking, but how much it affects it is not clear.

What I've experienced so far is that the straight-up weight reduction makes a BIG difference in how the car drives. I was surprised at how much smoother the front end feels over bumps. To me, that was the real win - better handling on rough surfaces and less disruption from running over curbs. The 350R comes that way out of the box, and now I have it too when I'm running the stock tires and wheels.

As for dust, I haven't gone far enough yet to know. I'm expecting a lot less with the street pads. We'll see how the track pads do when I put them on.
 

Zombo

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Right, rotational inertia and unsprung weight. Unsprung weight reduction with lighter wheels/brakes allows the suspension to react more quickly.
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