GT350 Build for SCCA Nationals

[JAJ]

I agree with you. Until I get the OBD reader on my car, I am just buttoning up loose ends that have been suggested by others.

The codes you mention being able to be seen by the Ford kit, by chance do you mean the DTC codes I can see by turning the car on in engineer mode?

If that's the same code as what the Ford tool finds, I really just need translated what they mean.

I've never used engineer mode, so I can't answer that question from experience. I looked it up in the service manual I have and it's an Instrument Panel Controller function, but it's not clear if it only shows DTC's (and history) from the IPC or if it's all DTC's seen by the IPC from other modules in the vehicle.

However, if it turns out that you can find DTC's that way in the various modules (and not just one or two) then you've got a chance to figure it out. As for translating them, you could invest in $22 at https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct to get a 72 hour license for OASIS. Bung in your VIN and you have access to the same system the dealer techs use - wiring diagrams, service manual, trouble code descriptions. Thing is, if you can't actually read the codes, then it's not as helpful as it could be.

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[WItoTX]

I've never used engineer mode, so I can't answer that question from experience. I looked it up in the service manual I have and it's an Instrument Panel Controller function, but it's not clear if it only shows DTC's (and history) from the IPC or if it's all DTC's seen by the IPC from other modules in the vehicle.

However, if it turns out that you can find DTC's that way in the various modules (and not just one or two) then you've got a chance to figure it out. As for translating them, you could invest in $22 at https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct to get a 72 hour license for OASIS. Bung in your VIN and you have access to the same system the dealer techs use - wiring diagrams, service manual, trouble code descriptions. Thing is, if you can't actually read the codes, then it's not as helpful as it could be.

This is awesome. I got a project for tomorrow night. I had no idea something like this existed. Thanks!

 

[WItoTX]

Finally, a follow up after another event. Sunday was event 6 with SCCA here is Houston. It was a scorcher. Seems most folks were running their best times in the first two passes, and in CAM that rang true. Here is my best run. I had one major issue (along with several others). My throttle control. Through the slalom, I was all over on throttle inputs, and as you will see, it upset the hell out of the car.



All said and done, I can see about 1.25 seconds of lost time thanks to my driving. I don't plan to modify the car anymore until I really get the mechanics of going fast back to where they need to be.

As for all my electrical "issues" none of them cropped up today. I did get the exhaust notification message again, but I turned the car off and on, and it went away. I left the car running after that, and no issues with the car going into limp mode. The SCCA folks also don't run us across potholes. So that helps.

I also got my OBX reader, and got forscan running. Some interesting things I found.

A) My car had a bunch of codes that don't trigger any dash lights.
B) You cannot clear an individual code.

I say those two things because I experienced both. I had ~7 codes. I say ~7, because I read the first one, found it was related to the MAF (I started the car with the MAF unplugged after pulling the air filter box, so it threw the CEL). Then cleared it. Well that wiped all the codes out.

Second, after I cleared the codes, I found that the battery, which typically while cruising down the highway stayed at 12.5-12.8 volts, was now staying between 13.7 and 14.4. I don't know that this means anything, but it stuck out to me.

Tonight I am going to scan everything again and see what codes I get. From there, run them through the Ford code translator book linked earlier in this thread, and see what I come up with.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

I saw you on Sunday, and was wondering how your car was doing. I did not run but was playing pit crew for my wife and her MINI Cooper S.

I have to agree it was hot as hell and seems there were alot of DNF's happening.

 

[WItoTX]

I saw you on Sunday, and was wondering how your car was doing. I did not run but was playing pit crew for my wife and her MINI Cooper S.

I have to agree it was hot as hell and seems there were alot of DNF's happening.

The driver is the main problem with my car . After I spent time last night watching my runs vs Andre and Tom runs, the throttle control is hands down the biggest issue I have.

I don't know that 175 cars is the right number for HPA either. Very clustered, especially with all the foot traffic. But hey, its the only show in town beside PCA/BMW and their wacky crash courses!

 

[WItoTX]

Figured this is as good of spot as any to post this video. Yesterday was my 4th? event without making a change, and I am finally getting more dialed into the car. I am definitely the limiting factor. The result was an 9th overall raw time, and 2nd in class. Kept myself ahead of all the M2's (there were 6, of which two were fast), but lost ground to the leader in my class.



Yes I know I gotta fix my gopro mount. Apparently it can't handle the G's LOL.

My main takeaways:
1. I still struggle with constant throttle input, which leads to an upset car. Not to mention my corners could use some smoother inputs. Seat time is the only thing helping me with this one.
2. The heat. It was 100+ here yesterday, and even though I train hard in the summer here in Houston, the heat was too much. I spent the day under an UV umbrella, sucked down water, had plenty of salty snacks, but Gatorade is legitimately necessary in these temps when spending the entire day outside. I can chase elk in the mountains with water, coffee, and beef jerky. It's a different game here.
3. Water for tires. I need to wrap my sprayer in bubble wrap and reflective tape. The water coming out was hotter than what I take a bath in.
4. Rims were a major source of heat. I knew the brakes got hot, but dang the rims were hot too.

 

[JAJ]

Figured this is as good of spot as any to post this video. Yesterday was my 4th? event without making a change, and I am finally getting more dialed into the car. I am definitely the limiting factor. The result was an 9th overall raw time, and 2nd in class. Kept myself ahead of all the M2's (there were 6, of which two were fast), but lost ground to the leader in my class.



Yes I know I gotta fix my gopro mount. Apparently it can't handle the G's LOL.

My main takeaways:
1. I still struggle with constant throttle input, which leads to an upset car. Not to mention my corners could use some smoother inputs. Seat time is the only thing helping me with this one.
2. The heat. It was 100+ here yesterday, and even though I train hard in the summer here in Houston, the heat was too much. I spent the day under an UV umbrella, sucked down water, had plenty of salty snacks, but Gatorade is legitimately necessary in these temps when spending the entire day outside. I can chase elk in the mountains with water, coffee, and beef jerky. It's a different game here.
3. Water for tires. I need to wrap my sprayer in bubble wrap and reflective tape. The water coming out was hotter than what I take a bath in.
4. Rims were a major source of heat. I knew the brakes got hot, but dang the rims were hot too.

There's a more speed available if you can relearn the way you approach the controls. Maybe a pro instructor for a few sessions or something. Basically, you're stabbing at the accelerator and the brakes and snapping the steering wheel from turn to turn. If you can move more smoothly, you can carry more speed. While driving in these events is fun, I've heard that the less time you spend actually doing it, the better.

 

[Dana Pants]

The first right hand turn needed more commitment/input and this caused the first left hand turn to be late.

When making bigger turns, I see hands coming off the wheel. It’s much better for car control to keep the hands at 9 and 3 pretty much always. If you find you NEED so much wheel angle, it’s probably because you are starting the turns late and/or not finishing the previous turns.

 

[WItoTX]

Well I finally go to going through the codes getting thrown in my car causing the CEL. The codes are:
1. U0184 - Lost Communication with Radio
2. U3003 - Battery Voltage power steering control module - 11.7 amps
3. U0253 - Lost Communication with accessory protocol interface
4. U0256 Lost communication with front controls interface module

I am thinking the battery is 6 years old, and may be going. I've been wanting a Braille anyways, so now is the time I suppose. That would likely clear up 1 and 2. For 3 and 4, if the new battery doesn't clear it up, I may have to take apart the dash and start looking at wires and try and locate a potentially pinched wire, assuming my active exhaust issue is related to 3 and 4.

Will report back once I get the new battery in.

 

[WItoTX]

Well, it’s been a minute since I updated this thread apparently. There has been a lot of changes over the last year or so. When I last updated, I was chasing an issue that started with electrical, but I was chasing sensors to figure out what was wrong. I was about to replace the battery with a LiPo option, hoping that my old battery was weak, and the new one would address the issue. I was on stock rims. I had just removed the interior behind the front seats, and chasing that 36xx lb weight. Thanks to everyone who helped me chase down the issue. There is more than a few of you on here I PM'ed with questions, and all of it led to the answer.

Since then, I have:

• Replaced the factory battery with a LiPo
• Continued having electrical issues, and chased those
• Picked up Apex VS-5RS 19x11.5 Forged wheels
• Removed the interior to pull the rest of the stereo and wiring from the car
• Ran an SCCA national event
• Added SS lines and RT660 fluid
• Bled the ABS using Forscan
• Replaced the LiPo with Lead Acid battery, and moved it to the trunk
• Fixed the electrical issue
• RLCA Spherical swap
• Hood struts
• Added AJ Hartman coil over conversion kit with 350 lb springs
• Added AJ Hartman splitter
• Added a GT4 tow hook
• Various swaybar swaps
• Picked up non-spoiler rear decklid

Let’s face it, some of these things are just not that interesting, so I am going to breeze over them. If you any questions, please let me know.

So to start with the battery and electrical isssues, because it is a hot topic lately here on M6G. I swapped to a LiPo battery, specifically the AntiGravity ATX-20 after AG themselves told me that battery would work fine on my car.

Well shocker, it didn’t fix the problem. The issues returned shortly after the swap. There is several threads on M6G which validated my issues. Basically, the LiPo cant handle the electrical demands of the car, driving the car at extremes. My understand was/is, it’s not necessarily the battery, but the management software within the battery which messes with the cars computer, and will throw a fault.

Several folks highly suggested I swap my battery. But the straw that broke the camels back was when I was speaking with a DSC expert, and he stated he had a car burn up a wiring harness because of his LiPo. So with that, along with several other folks I highly respect suggesting I make the switch, I put an 800 CCA battery in the trunk.

Low and behold, my issues are gone. Also, weight distribution has improved. More on that in a minute.

While I was having electrical issues, Apex had a black Friday sale, and I picked up some VS-5RS wheels, in brushed aluminum. Keeping the car looking good is my goal, while making it perform well. So brushed aluminum fit the bill.

This saved me 6.6 lbs on each corner relative to the factory wheels/tires. And it is very noticeable in throttle response. And they look fantastic.

With that add, I made my way to a ProSolo event for the first time ever. Even with the car having the suspension issues, I thought hell with it, pull the dyno plug, and full send. It didn’t dawn on me that shocks would default to full soft, and it was noticeable. Regardless, it being my first outing at a National level event, it was fun, and I learned a lot.

Following this, I dug into my front suspension, as the FP springs just are not enough for these heavy cars. AJ Hartman had just released his coil over conversion kit for the MR cars. I picked one up, and after several emails to AJ, as well as tweaks on my end, the were installed. 350 lbs (I plan to go to 400), and a world of difference from the FP springs.

Further, I was able to now corner balance the car by inserting shims to the bottom. The result, I got below 3700 lbs, all while generally having a full interior. But more weight loss is to come.

With the battery now moved to the trunk, I believe I am closer to a dead even 50/50 corner balanced car. The above photo is just for the weight of the car, we actually corner balanced it with me in it, and got to 50.1% and 49.9%.

Additionally, with the battery/electric issue in the past, I was able to focus in on the DSC tunes, and getting the shocks balanced. I worked with Robert Weathers, whom some folks here may know, swapped sway bars, and went to a test and tune session down here in Beeville. At that test n tune session, I swapped the front sway bar to full soft and put in the FP bar instead of the factory spring, and the result was turn in is exceptional now, and with the rear stiffened up a bit with the FP bar in, the car rotates much better, and has massively improved cornering speeds.

The new DSC tunes I have, along with the switch on the bars, the car feels phenomenal. in addition, I swapped the RLCA bushings with spherical bearings, and wow, if I had known how much better the car would respond, I would have swapped those before doing anything else to the car. I had a few others I consult with, drive the car due to their experience and get their thoughts on it. I got the same feedback from them, they were blown away by how much better it feels.

Anyways, I breezed through the foregoing stuff simply because its not the fun stuff, but the underlying stuff that needs to be done. If you are still following, here is the more fun upgrades since getting the electrical gremlins worked out. I picked up a new rear decklid, from a GT-non spoiler car. Which, as most know, means no existing holes. And is the basis for the next upgrade, a wing. The plan is, to take this trunk, wrap it in CF, and then mount the wing to this, preserving the factory decklid.

I will be swapping the GT cover for my Shelby cover once the wing arrives. In addition, I added a front splitter from AJ Hartman as well. It’s the first time I’ve removed the bumper on the car, and I expected it to be way worse than it was. I also added a GT4 tow hook, because I am sick of driving my car up the trailer. Hopefully that is the only time I have to use the hook.

The fit and finish of the splitter is fantastic, and hats off to @ajhartman for a fantastic product. It's basically a straight bolt on part, with (almost) no cutting on the car. And major Kudos for the install videos, which are detailed and thorough, and had me well up to speed as to what to expect before I started.

I’ve only had the car out once since installing, on public roads, and I’d like to say I could tell how much more grip there is. But the reality is, you really can’t feel the difference because the speeds/aggression just isn’t there. At least not in East Texas. My next event is Nov. 12, at a high speed site, and looking forward to more front grip. We will see how unbalanced I made it until the wing shows up.

Most of this is just a recap since I have hugely neglected this build thread, and I am embarrassed about it. Going forward, I have a couple plans, mostly to make it more time trial ready (a blip module for one, since I suck at double clutching), hood vents and splitter ramps, and getting the car on 400 lb front springs/800 rears. Otherwise it’s basically ready to rock for the first time since early 2022. And going forward, hopefully most posts revolve around events and track days.

 

[mavisky]

Awesome improvements. Still kicking myself for ordering springs about a week before AJ announced his spring setup.

 

[WItoTX]

Awesome improvements. Still kicking myself for ordering springs about a week before AJ announced his spring setup.

I was pricing out coil over systems, and researching if there was any good alternative for the MR deletes, and which MR delete kit worked best. Then he posted the conversion kit, and problem solved. For now at least.

I'd really like to get to 500 lb springs, but that is a ways down the road.

 

[Tonymustang302]

Im glad you’re using AJ stuff…..means you know what you’re doing and actually track your car.

You’re going to need rear wing soon

 

[WItoTX]

Im glad you’re using AJ stuff…..means you know what you’re doing and actually track your car.

You’re going to need rear wing soon

Oh it's ordered. Hopefully be here before Christmas with some luck!

 

[Tonymustang302]

One thing id highly recommend is the spl control arms and tension rods if u can use em

and i love the 19x11.5’s…..that a trick secret for getting most out of your tires. I have plenty of sets

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