GT Magnaride and PP2 Rotor Backing Plates

lil'Zeus

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Has anyone been working behind the scenes on a GT PP1/PP2 rotor backing plate for the magnaride equipped cars? I am going to try and have something built if no one is on the cusp of a break through for a part like this. It would be nice to have some brake cooling on my car and I can't be the only one in this situation. Magnaride folks like myself are out in the wind until someone comes up with something. Nothing on the market for this spindle yet.

Thanks in advance if anyone has any info!
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nameuser

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I literally started researching products for this yesterday and am here now to find out why there isn't an option. What is the difference that makes us out of luck with the pp2?
 
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lil'Zeus

lil'Zeus

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Magnaride cars have a different spindle. I think it is better than the standard option due to the larger wheel bearing and 4 bolt hub assembly, but all that makes the dimensions different. When I have tried contacting the 3 or 4 manufacturers of these for non magnaride cars they all state they haven't seen one yet to buld a set up for etc. Due to more limited production nature it may not be high on their interest level either for R&D etc.

I just wanted to put the feeler out in case someone was working on one that I didn't know of yet. I'd donate my car to build from, but none of the manufacturers are even remotely close to me in mid MO lol
 
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lil'Zeus

lil'Zeus

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This is the only pic I have but it has the caliper and rotor mounted. You can tell by looking at the center of the hub that it is different than a standard mustang setup. It uses a 4 bolt hub design also but not sure I have a pic of that.
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sigintel

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Get a sheet of stiff aluminum.
Use a stock dust shield to trace and cut out.
Use shield again to drill mounting holes.
Test fit. (No ducting hole yet).
Run your air ducts.
Get an idea of where you want them to mount on shield.
Mark shield.
Now make or buy a short piece of Al tube that the ducting will mate to.
Temporarily hot glue tube to back of shield and dry fit everything up and turn wheel etc.
Check/measure 4 times
Drink beer
Check/Measure another 3 times
Cut once. Lol.
You will make at least least two cuts to create an X. You double or triple that as needed.
The cuts will be inside the circle area of the duct on the shield. Do not cut full diameter, leave 2-8mm. You will be bending the triangle shaped tabs 90 degrees to make pop rivet tabs.
If you got skills, use a harbor freight hole saw to cut a hole the size of the duct in some thick wood.
Place the shield over the wood hole cut out and start slowly hammering around the hole to make a lip and bend tabs inboard.
Might take 2 tries first, but eventually you get a shield with a nice fitting duct adapter.
Drill holes and use stainless pop rivets.
Always pull with tool inside to make sure any pop rivet pull head left in center of pop rivet can only fall outboard and not into duct/rotor surface.
Doesnt have to be perfectly airtight to make a huge difference.
 

nameuser

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I like your style Sigintel. *another beer.

Anyone have any experience with these fan vanes? I guess circle track guys use them. Videos show that they pull air from the inside of the hub toward the outside of the wheel.
48FD6E29-FC47-4B6B-9D41-A6A3615EF912.png
 
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Cardude99

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I like your style Sigintel. *another beer.

Anyone have any experience with these fan vanes? I guess circle track guys use them. Videos show that they pull air from the inside of the hub toward the outside of the wheel.
48FD6E29-FC47-4B6B-9D41-A6A3615EF912.png
That reminds me of the turbonator, apparently it's making a come back
 
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